David Martin
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- Apr 7, 2008
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Ok, I see. So, you grind one edge bevel at a time. Then make a switch. You use X coarse grit? DM
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Lifespan of a DMT bench stone?
- Thread starter emperorwang
- Start date
My starting grit depends upon the amount of material that has to be removed. Unless I am removing a chip out or establishing a new bevel angle, I don’t usually start at 100 grit. On the big stones, I count strokes per side to keep the edge centered.
My original idea was to go back and forth between 2 stones set at the same angle. If you do that with coarser stones, you can’t tell if you’re developing a burr. So I try to establish a burr on each bevel. When that is accomplished, it doesn’t hurt to alternate sides while you’re shining up your tapers. This is not easy to do on my jig since each side is set at a different angle. But the Sharpmaker enables me to finish up using the side alternating strokes. This technique is good for knocking burrs off.
My original idea was to go back and forth between 2 stones set at the same angle. If you do that with coarser stones, you can’t tell if you’re developing a burr. So I try to establish a burr on each bevel. When that is accomplished, it doesn’t hurt to alternate sides while you’re shining up your tapers. This is not easy to do on my jig since each side is set at a different angle. But the Sharpmaker enables me to finish up using the side alternating strokes. This technique is good for knocking burrs off.