Light Boxes

Ken C.

Jack of all trades, master of none.
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Jun 14, 2000
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I'm getting into taking pics of my knives and other still objects. I am looking for some instruction on how to make or where to purchase a light box of some sort. What do you experts use or do to get those quality photos you post on BFC?

Thanks. :)

PS: I use a Kodak DX6490 4.0 Digital Camera with 10x zoom.
 
Hey Ken, I made one with PVC pipes, a few elbows, and a few caps. For lighting I got some cheap halogen lights and put them around the box and for the background, I got some heavy duty construction paper. I got the instructions on dpreview.com (olympus forum) and ill try and get a link for you.
 
Great link to a fine box!
Much better than I would have explained
Thanks
Tom
 
Hi Johnson, Good to see you HERE, Bro! :)

I'm gonna redo my light box to the one in the link. Why didn't I think of the screws and paper punch????
DUH!!!
Tom
 
There's a photography forum at www.timezone.com you might have a look at. Seems the guys who are taking the best pix all make their own lightbox and adapt it and mess around with it until they get the results they want. Cut up a cardboard box to leave just a skeleton and cover the holes with plain white paper or cut up a gallon milk jug and tape the pieces over the holes in the box ... use one light or two or even three ... try placing the light or lights at different angles, above or to one side or both sides ...
 
For lighting I got some cheap halogen lights and put them around the box


Ah, the siren song of those cheap halogen work lights.

The problem with them is that the light they produce is not very white. It will make the colors in your pictures look wrong.

Some may say, "I'll just use the white balance button on my camera to fix that." Well, the white balance button can't put back what is not there (specifically red light). Furthermore, the white balance button is not magic. It fixes off white light by moving the offsets in the amplifiers inside your camera. But, at the risk of getting to technical, that reduces the color depth your camera can deliver. Less color depth translates into less detail and less sharp focus. There's no such thing as a free lunch.

My advice: go to Home Depot, buy a couple of the cheapie work light setups with two lights on each and nice, adjustable, folding stands, also buy four of those cheap clamp-on reflector light fixtures that takes conventional lightbulbs and buy the largest bulbs those fixtures are rated and be sure to get the bulbs with clear glass, not frosted. When you get home, assemble the stands, but throw the halogen lights into a pile to be used later for work projects. Instead, clamp the reflector light fixtures to the stands, install the clear bulbs, set your camera for tungsten light, and start shooting.
 
Light boxes are nice for what I call "knife mug shots," those flat, evenly lit pictures.

But, if you want to really get creative, really go wild, you've got to think outside the box.

bm3110S.jpg


That picture can not be done in a light box for several reasons. That's "table-top studio still life."
 
Gollnick said:
Ah, the siren song of those cheap halogen work lights.

The problem with them is that the light they produce is not very white. It will make the colors in your pictures look wrong.

My advice: go to Home Depot, buy a couple of the cheapie work light setups with two lights on each and nice, adjustable, folding stands
Home Depot sells a version of those cheap flood lights for painters that's designed to be neutral for proper examination of paint colors. They're only $20 more than the work light, but about $60 cheaper than a pro-Tungsten. Four of those and you'll have adequate white flood for a light box. Another good part is that your electricity bill will be lower than going with full tungsten filiment bulbs as well.
 
Home Depot sells a version of those cheap flood lights for painters that's designed to be neutral for proper examination of paint colors.

Yeah, I've seen those. But I don't have any data on them to know just how well they work for photography purposes.

Have you tried them? What results?
 
Gollnick said:
Yeah, I've seen those. But I don't have any data on them to know just how well they work for photography purposes.

Have you tried them? What results?
Yes. And they work fine for general lightbox stilllife photography. They're definitely more neutral/white so you don't suffer the yellow tinges with the regular work lights. At 500W's they draw less electricty than my 1500W Tungstens. Less heat too. Replacable filiments. Pre-Industrialized for heavy duty work, so they'll stand a drop or two from the table top when the clamp fails.

Any other questions, let me know.
 
Gollnick, are you saying that the manual white balance setting in my camera will result in less detail then getting the right lamps? I dont do much photography but always trying to learn.
 
Don't forget the artistic part. You can have all the best equipment and still take dismal pictures. Enjoy your practice and learn to see the way an artist does. Move the lights around and see the effect through the lens. Knives are some of the hardest things to shoot well. Most times, you see photos where the blade's details and highlights are blown out. Or if the blade looks good, the handle is too dark. And there are results where the blade looks black when it's not really.
 
It's real easy to make your own light box. If you want a ready made one Lastolite has a few models that are easy to set up.

It's called the Lastolite Cubelite

Very packable but probably a bit on the expensive side.

It's not very difficult to make though. Just make a cube shaped frame and cover it with white sheets.

If you're worried about white balance settings just get a couple of vivitar 283's or sunpak 383's and put a slave cell on it so it'll be triggered by the camera flash. They're cheap and powerful but professional quality flash guns. And i think the Sunpak flashguns also takes mains. So no need batteries when you're at home.

With the proper flashguns you'll also be able to shoot other pics as well. Just plonk 'em on a couple of tripods and you have basic studio lighting for portraits and family pictures.


Edited to add: By the way, if you upgrade your camera get one that has a hot shoe for the flash and can take RAW pictures. RAW doesn't take into account the white balance, so you can just adjust it to your liking later on using photoshop or the supplied RAW editor with your camera.
 
I've got a suggestion for the lightbox.

Make a cube frame but make it so that it has a stand to stand on.

Then make the bottom out of perspex so you can actually shine a light thru from the bottom.

This way you'll get even lighting all around.
 
Gollnick, are you saying that the manual white balance setting in my camera will result in less detail then getting the right lamps? I dont do much photography but always trying to learn.


Yes. This is because adding offsets to compensate for bad light eats into the dynamic range of the signal (the color) you're trying to measure. Less dynamic range means less color depth and that means less detail. And detail on edges is what gives the appearance of sharp focus.

By the way, the same thing happens if you try to adjust color balance using editting software such as Photoshop.

There's an old saying that describes most physical systems: There's no such thing as a free lunch. In other words, no benefit in one place comes without a cost somewhere else. When we claim the benefit of correcting for bad light, we have to pay a cost somewhere else.

There's another old saying about computers (and digital photography fall into that realm): garbage in, garbage out.

Poor light in gives poor light out.




It is often helpful to do what Einstein called a "Gedankenexperiment," a thought experiment. One way to do this is a "reductio ad absurdum" experiment. Reductio ad absurdum means "reduce to the absurd. In this case, let's take something completely to extreme. To mix Latin and German, a reductio ad absurdum gedankenexperiment.

Let's imagine taking a picture with perfectly white light. Our subject is a mirror-polished blade. The colors in the picture will be perfect. The blade will appear bright silver.

Now, let's imagine taking this same picture with a pure red light. What will the picture look like? The polished blade will reflect back the red light and appear red in the picture, not silver.

This is absurd to think of purely red light, but what our simple thought experiment shows us is that if the light coming into a scene is wrong, then the picture taken of that scene will be wrong. Imagine trying to fix it in Photoshop. There simply is no green or blue information. Anything you can persuade photoshop to add in is just noise and will make the image worse.

What if we go back to our laboratory of the mind and make a new light source. This one is 50% red, 25% blue, and 25% green. The picture taken under this light source is still not right. But at least it has some blue and green in it. So, if we take it to Photoshop, maybe we can fix it.

We could fix it by lowering the red level by 50%. But if you did that, you'd loose detail in the red channel. You would be essentially trying to squash ten pounds of information into a five pound sack. Something has to be left out. And what gets left out is the detail in the information (you can prove this to yourself by playing some complex music on your stero at a comfortable level. Turn the volume down by half and you will see that you can hear less detail, less complexity in the music.)

The other way to fix it is to raise the green and blue channels 200% each. But when you do that, you'll not only amplify the signal, but the noise along with it. And the resulting noise covers up detail. Essentially, you are now trying to stretch 5 pounds of information to fill a ten pound container. Something has to be added. And what gets added to fill the space is noise.

The same sort of thing goes on inside your digital camera when you press the white balance button. The whilte balance button on your camera and the color balance menu in your photo editting software basically do the same thing.

The best solution is to take your picture with light that is 33 1/3% red, 33 1/3% green, and 33 1/3% blue and then not dicker around with either the white balance on your camera or the color balance controls in your photo editting software.
 
I kind of disagree with gollnick.

Not that he's wrong but i think for the photos that anyone here on the website is gonna take it's not going to make much difference using the white balance setting. Unless you're gonna be blowing up the image to higher than 8"x10" there will probably be no noticeable difference.

I've been on photo.net on the wedding photography forum and the professionals there constantly use RAW to edit white balance and other settings.

100's of professional photographers have been using white balance settings on camera for their work which is their livelihood.

For the sharpest pictures think about the lens first. Using digicams, this situation won't make a whole lot of difference.
 
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