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light pitting
- Thread starter miguet
- Start date
Post up some pictures for me if you could. What kind of pitting are you dealing with, exposed metal pits or pits covered up with black oxides? If you use a acidic solution such as naval jelly or CLR, you would have to remove or change the finish on your knives. A brass gun cleaning brush from a gun specialties store might be just gentle enough to clean away the oxides with the least possible harm to the finish (1-2$) Just to clarify ~ What are you trying to do, Clean the black oxide from the pits, or get rid of the pits entirely? The only way to completely remove pits from knives is to remove medium... Have you considered parkerization? Are you against changing the finish? I can help you with instructions on how to strip finishes and such, but I need to know exactly what you are dealing with what you want to do with them. Let me know if I can be of assistance.
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2001
- Messages
- 1,462
Thank you very much for the response. I would like to get rid of the pits and the bead blast finish. It's not a knife I'll ever use. The steel is S90v. I'm thinking of a total refinish. It doesn't lend itself to stone wash. I'd like a satin finish. Is this something you do?
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Well... I would have to see a couple pictures of the knife first, I would like to know exactly what I am working with first so I can tell you what I can do. I may be able to help you out. Really I think all you need is a brass gun cleaning brush and some wet/dry 1000grit. I think the best thing to do (without seeing pictures first) is to gently brush the pitted areas of the knife blade with the brass gun brush. This will remove all the oxidation from the pits, and get rid of all the oxidation (black spots) from the knife. However ~ The exfoliated pits will still remain. I have pictures of this... And old Cattaraugus Quartermaster 225q. I removed virtually all the oxidation from the pits from the blade using naval jelly, steel wool, and a brass gun brush. The pits on this were VERY deep, almost to the point of not being worth removing the oxides.. It was not cared for well prior to me owning it. I can post a picture up soon as tomorrow of what this looks like. I also have an old Olsen knife that I bought from a flea market that had like you said, very light pitting on the blade as well as a stonewashed patina. I cleaned it up with a brass gun brush and 1000grit wet/dry.
My apologies for the bad picture, it is the only one I have of this knife at the moment. The okapi in the picture was rehandled by me with aluminum breaker bars and 3/16 brass pivot screws. I removed the rust from the blade and later repainted this.
The blade was done with 1000grit wet/dry. It had very light pitting on the blade as well. Let me know ~ I can tell you step by step how-to-do for your knives. Refinishing your knife if something I would do for you but I would like to see pictures of the knife before I say yes. If it is an expensive knife, changing the finish on the blade MAY ruin the collector value of your knife.. Satin finish wouldn't be hard to do. 1000grit wet/dry and flitz polish. These are bad pictures. Let me know.
My apologies for the bad picture, it is the only one I have of this knife at the moment. The okapi in the picture was rehandled by me with aluminum breaker bars and 3/16 brass pivot screws. I removed the rust from the blade and later repainted this.
The blade was done with 1000grit wet/dry. It had very light pitting on the blade as well. Let me know ~ I can tell you step by step how-to-do for your knives. Refinishing your knife if something I would do for you but I would like to see pictures of the knife before I say yes. If it is an expensive knife, changing the finish on the blade MAY ruin the collector value of your knife.. Satin finish wouldn't be hard to do. 1000grit wet/dry and flitz polish. These are bad pictures. Let me know.
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- Joined
- Jul 12, 2013
- Messages
- 6,160
If there is no deep logo. There are alot of guys that can do a new bead blast or sand blast finish on the knife for you. Very cheap and very easy.
I second this. I have a pretty extensive knowledge of knives/firearms and know how to care for them very well. However - I am not a professional knife maker. Some folks on this forum are so educated and skilled that their work should be considered a fine art. It would be better serviced by someone with better set up for bead blasting. This was good advice. I'd still like to see some pictures of your knives. Also - I rarely visit a gun specialties store that sells the brass brushes that I use for a couple bucks. Once I get out to the gun store I could send you one for free If you'd like, they are the best kind of abrasive/material you can use on metal for removing oxidation with minimal wear on the steel surface. I am sure shipping would be cheap. Let me know.