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- Thread starter zipp
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2000
- Messages
- 1,204
you can buy sribes from koval and other supliers
or something that work fast,take a vale from
a old motor,and sharpen the round part
pput it in a drill press and put a flat peace of
board or someting flat in a vice and put your blade on the flat pieace and turn the drill press on and run your blad around and then flip it over and do the other side
you will have two lines.
or something that work fast,take a vale from
a old motor,and sharpen the round part
pput it in a drill press and put a flat peace of
board or someting flat in a vice and put your blade on the flat pieace and turn the drill press on and run your blad around and then flip it over and do the other side
you will have two lines.
easiest cheapest way: grind the HARD end of a file to a point, the height you want your scribe line...hold the file firmly in one place and pull the blank along the point... the thing i like the most about this is that you can make the line anywhere you want...close together or far apart.....
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http://www.mayoknives.com
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http://www.mayoknives.com
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
I thought he meant the grind line where the main bevel meets the flat of the blade....
- Joined
- Nov 17, 1999
- Messages
- 676
Hello Zipp,
First of all, what line do you mean? The grinding-line? my first knives were all convex grounded, so I didn't have to worry about just that.
If yo mean the line on the blade were the edge comes, that's simple. Take a round file, and file a little round pit on the side of your bench, about 45° down. Take someting with a point that can scratch the metal and put it in. As you see, the way you put it in, determines the hight of the scribe line. The rest is simple. Hold the scriber in the pit and pull the metal along in.
I always make three lines this way. The middle and two beside that were I stop grinding the edge.
If you need any help, feel free to mail me. It's one of the icons above. That goes for everyone else too.
greetings, Bart.
First of all, what line do you mean? The grinding-line? my first knives were all convex grounded, so I didn't have to worry about just that.
If yo mean the line on the blade were the edge comes, that's simple. Take a round file, and file a little round pit on the side of your bench, about 45° down. Take someting with a point that can scratch the metal and put it in. As you see, the way you put it in, determines the hight of the scribe line. The rest is simple. Hold the scriber in the pit and pull the metal along in.
I always make three lines this way. The middle and two beside that were I stop grinding the edge.
If you need any help, feel free to mail me. It's one of the icons above. That goes for everyone else too.
greetings, Bart.
again thanks for the help. I was Talking about the grind line. I dont undeer stand how you can grind so straight. I will be getting a book today maybe alot of questions will be answered there.
I tried making a knife with a wheel grinder a dremble a tourch and some sand papper.
You can quess how it turned out.
I tried making a knife with a wheel grinder a dremble a tourch and some sand papper.
You can quess how it turned out.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
The only way to get a straight grind line is to practice, practice, and practice some more.
Some guys grind totally free-hand, some grind free-hand but hold the spine (back edge of blade) on the work-rest of their grinder, while still others use a grinding fixture.
I have one of those fixtures, but I grind free-hand now. It was easy to grind blades straight at first, but you're somewhat limited with it. I'm not saying it's not a good tool, but I think if you can grind free-hand you have a great deal less limitations. BUT, I know there are many many custom makers that use them with great success.
With a big-blade, the fixture will make a curved grind along the edge that's the same radius as the cutting edge of the blade. Whereas most free-hand grinds will go from the cutting edge to the spine.
If you don't know of any makers that might let you come see how it's done, I would highly recommend you get some videos.
Loveless has one that's really good. It's kind of mind-boggling for a guy like you just starting out, because he's using so much equipment. But, you can get to see a blade made from start to finish, and see how they hollow-grind in his shop.
There were two tapes made by a fellow using a Blademaster that I used to have but they were "borrowed" permanently.
Your best bet is probably to order a catalog from Centaur Forge Ltd. (414) 763-9175.
They have many books and videos on knife-making. And no, you don't have to be a bladesmith to make use of their catalog. I'm not.
I think the best test to see if this is something you want to keep trying at is to order either a kit knife, or make one out of good steel using a file for the stock removal. It will save you a lot of money if you change your mind.
Best of luck
Nick
Some guys grind totally free-hand, some grind free-hand but hold the spine (back edge of blade) on the work-rest of their grinder, while still others use a grinding fixture.
I have one of those fixtures, but I grind free-hand now. It was easy to grind blades straight at first, but you're somewhat limited with it. I'm not saying it's not a good tool, but I think if you can grind free-hand you have a great deal less limitations. BUT, I know there are many many custom makers that use them with great success.
With a big-blade, the fixture will make a curved grind along the edge that's the same radius as the cutting edge of the blade. Whereas most free-hand grinds will go from the cutting edge to the spine.
If you don't know of any makers that might let you come see how it's done, I would highly recommend you get some videos.
Loveless has one that's really good. It's kind of mind-boggling for a guy like you just starting out, because he's using so much equipment. But, you can get to see a blade made from start to finish, and see how they hollow-grind in his shop.
There were two tapes made by a fellow using a Blademaster that I used to have but they were "borrowed" permanently.
Your best bet is probably to order a catalog from Centaur Forge Ltd. (414) 763-9175.
They have many books and videos on knife-making. And no, you don't have to be a bladesmith to make use of their catalog. I'm not.
I think the best test to see if this is something you want to keep trying at is to order either a kit knife, or make one out of good steel using a file for the stock removal. It will save you a lot of money if you change your mind.
Best of luck
Nick