Linen Micarta finish

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
Messages
9,910
Am I the only one that has trouble with linen micarta? I dont use it very often but I cant seem to get a consistant finish. What grit do you guys use and do you buff it? BTW its black. Im tempted to rough it up but Ive seen this stuff pretty before with a soft shine.
 
Bruce, I've been successful getting a nice clean satiny finish by taking up to 1500 by hand and then buffing with a designated "clean" and "new" loose wheel with NO compound. I do the same thing with any type of wooden handles, too. 1500 grit - clean wheel - no compound
 
I just do a final wet sand with 600 then 1200, buff with soft muslin with HF1 (white mirror) compound. Although, after 1200, it just needs a light touch and then you could polish with some Renaissance wax and it looks awesome, also.
 
I bead blast it at 60 psi and hand rub it and I do that for both linen and canvas Micarta as well as G10 and G11 when I use it but of course I don't focus on 'pretty' knives so much as utility beat em up users. I have just found I prefer the slightly grippy feel it takes on after blasting.

STR
 
Hey Bruce! Yeah, It can be a pain some times. I like a very high finish on the micartas other than when I'm doing up a tactical. It can come out looking like glass. Luckily being Micarta, it still has grip. Here is what works for me.


I use slack belting techniques rather than hand sanding, unless in a tight spot that I can't get to any other way. When in the finer grits, 400-600 etc., if not on a variable grinder, I spray the belt with water, or w-d40. The w-d last longer on the belt, but man, what a mess. I finish off the fittings with a 15 micron belt when using 416/ss guards and bolts. From there straight t the high speed buffer. You want high 3450 rpm buffer for this. )The 1700 rpm types tend to dig in). I use a very hard muslin wheel with a touch of black compound. This takes out any missed scratches. A light pressure is all that is required. This Will do the final blending, and start the polish on the fittings. From here, straight to a hard buff with green or white. This will glaze the micarta in to a very slick sheen. You can find any unwanted scratches at this point. The white is a bit finner, and less messy. Works better on Ivory an stag to keep the green color out as well.

Finally to the white RCH on a very soft buff. Still at high rpm. Very light pressure. Seems that higher RPM rides over the surface more easily rather that trying to wrap around the fittings and throwing the knife at the wall. Or you! The softer wheel leaves the soft high shine we love so much.

As you know, I work Green and Black Mic more than any other handle material here in the Lovett shop. It isn't a very finicky material to work. You can use all the different steps of hand sanding, but it takes a lot longer, and without any increase in quality of finish. In fact it usually doesn't come out as well as a nicely slack belted handle. Everything just flows together. No ridges, or sharp edges.

Bruce, I hope this helps! Mike and Manuela
 
Bruce,

Another viewpoint... I use to have a hard time with linen micarta until I figured something out. If you don't go through the layers of linen you get a terrible looking finish. If you're semi-flat on a layer you get what looks like blotches. If you go through the layers you'll see the rings or lines and it polishes up real nice. I'm having trouble explaining it, but hopefully that makes a little bit of sense.

Paul
 
Personally I have found that doing all hand work to 1500 or 2000 grit then lightly buff shoe shine style by hand. This avoids any slips with grinders or heat problems.

Chuck
 
Thanks again for the great responses. I will need to use my new technics next time because this one heading for Montana tomarrow. I finally hand sanded it to around 1500 and sprayed it with wd40. Its exceptable but I think next time I can do better. I think Paul hit on most of my troubles with the level spots showing too much linen.

Hey how about showing up at the Missoula Show this weekend. See ya there.
 
I usually contour it on the grinder up to 400 grit, but don't go too fast or you'll burn it. Then I hand sand working my way it to 1200 grit. The I either coat it with Renaissance Wax for a matte finish or put it on the buffer with the white buffing compound for a very short time to polish it. It works well for me.
-John
 
Back
Top