Liner Lock Bolsters/Scales - How do you attach yours?

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

The title sums it up... how to you attach the bolsters and scales on your liner locks?


I am finding that a clearance hole for my screws in the scales/bolsters allows for too much slop later on during re-assembly. Is my clearance hole too big? I'm using a #31 bit for a 4-40 screw.

Should I tap everything through in one shot? I usually use thread forming taps with Ti and regular taps for everything else... should I change to regular taps for this? I know if I tapped separately the threads will likely not align.

Thanks in advance!

 

[FTO_dude]

If you switched to a countersunk screw it would self locate
Similarly you could do one from the backside into either a blind tapped hole or through hole and screw with a polished end
You could also press fit some locator pins into your bolster

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

If you switched to a countersunk screw it would self locate
Similarly you could do one from the backside into either a blind tapped hole or through hole and screw with a polished end
You could also press fit some locator pins into your bolster

Thanks! I'll try a countersunk screw, sounds perfect.

 

[Frank Niro]

Daniel. Here is how I do mine. I cut two rectangles out of the titanium I will use that my pattern will fit in. I mark the pivot position with a punch and dill with an undersize bit and then use a reamer on both. I then cut the outline of my blade place it one liner and see that it does fit without it being to big or small, by adjusting the size of the blade or liner.
I now decide on ONE ONLY liner the position for the other screws needed. Most usually it is two for the a bolster, two for a scale, and four for the back bar. I now drill these holes for the THREAD size of the screws I will be using. I now do the outline of this liner usually with a 60 grit at half speed . I now take that liner and clamp it on the second to be done using a pivot pin or drill bit of the same size to position it. The other holes are now drilled but will care and by placing the smooth end of the a bit of the same size in two or more of the holes as I go. I scribe the outline, cut and grind it to shape, now overlay the first place some pins in three or more of the holes and bring them both to the same size.
Do not tap any holes unless the bolster, scale or spacer has been drilled for the screws first with that same threading size. You can the drill your clearance size and recess holes for the screw heads. Don't tap all the holes at once and do just one item like either or bolsters and then scales before moving ahead to the next. I have tried many several other approaches . This may not be then only way. Some are using glue to hold the two liners together while drilling the taping size holes, but for me this works every time. Frank

 

[Britt_Askew]

I was working on my first liner locks over the weekend and I was noticing this same thing ( the hole in my scales was bigger than the screw and it might could cause the scale to move later ) so I was thinking I would put a little CA between scale and liner when all finished. meanwhile I have been wondering if this was a good idea? What if I tried to get the hole in the scales closer to the size of the screw? Looked around and found these http://www.mcmaster.com/#counterbores/=sg6uik It looks like they have one that will give close fit for the screw I have?

 

[Chris Lambeth]

I will sometimes use a lathe to cut a concentric portion on the head of the screw. Works for all kinds of applications. A drill press and a carefully held file can accomplish the same thing when it need not be as precise.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Thanks guys! I'l have to get some pics when I complete one...