Liner Lock vs Lockback

A well made Linerlock. 2 of my favorite knives, a MT Lightfoot LCC and a Spydie CF Millie are linerlocks and I've never heard of blade play in these 2 from anyone. I've heard of a lot people complain about blade play in their lock backs, including myself. All the FRN spyders I've owned had some play straight from the factory.
 
harkamus said:
Why is it said that lockbacks are stronger locking mechanisms than linerlocks?
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Hit the back of the blade and a linerlock can slam shut. linerlocks have that thin strip of metal, flexing the whole length of it takes less strength than bending just a short length. It just does a poop job of redirecting force
 
Well what kind of liner lock are we talking about? If we're talking about liner locks with a stop pin, then I'd bet that that lock is stronger than most lockbacks. If we're talking something like the Leek or Chive, where there is no stop pin -- only the liner tab -- then the lockback will be stronger.

When I consider strength, I'm talking about pushing-against-the-edge strength. Spine whacks mean little to me, as I am not in the habit of cutting with the spine.
 
When considering convenience, and especially for knives that I need to open and close frequently, I prefer liner locks, so it depends on the purpose of the knife too. But the decisive factor is the quality of the lock. A poor liner or a frame lock is inferior in all cases to a well-constructed lockback. Yes, blade play is an issue with lockbacks (and I HATE blade play), but I've had blade play issues with Zero Tolerance 0302 with an apparantly solid frame lock too.
 
Either one, as long as it locks solidly with no significant play. :thumbup:

I suppose that theoretically, liner locks are not as strong as lockbacks, but I have never seen either fail outside of usage that I considered abusive to begin with.
 
THG said:
If we're talking something like the Leek or Chive, where there is no stop pin -- only the liner tab -- then the lockback will be stronger.
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Technically, the Leek is a frame lock, rather than a liner lock, but the mechanism is similar enough IMO to lump them together. On the other hand, the thumb stud of the leek does act as a stop for the blade (it rests against the frame when the knife is fully opened) so its not just the frame tab holding the blade in place, especially against "pushing-against-the-edge" force.
 
After having some bad luck with a few liner locks, especially one on a $150+ well-known brand, I would go with a lockback. That's only if it's from a reputable maker.

My overall lock preference:
Axis lock
Frame lock
Spyderco compression lock
Lockback
Liner lock
 
I've never had a lockback fail on me (personally), not to say it couldn't happen, it just hasn't to me. I have had a couple of linerlocks fail on me but both were inexpensive Gerber knives which I no longer buy. All my Kershaw liners have been excellent.
 
mdauben said:
On the other hand, the thumb stud of the leek does act as a stop for the blade (it rests against the frame when the knife is fully opened) so its not just the frame tab holding the blade in place, especially against "pushing-against-the-edge" force.
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You're right; I forgot about that.
 
I'm confused. What are the different kinds of liner locks, and what is a stop pin? I have a ZT 0350; which kind of liner lock is that?
 
harkamus said:
I'm confused. What are the different kinds of liner locks, and what is a stop pin? I have a ZT 0350; which kind of liner lock is that?
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The stop pin does just that, its a pin the stops the blade from opening any farther
 
harkamus said:
I'm confused. What are the different kinds of liner locks, and what is a stop pin? I have a ZT 0350; which kind of liner lock is that?
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Tenacious, for example, seems to NOT have a stop pin (a torx screw on which the tang of the blade rests when open). Observe:

C122_L.jpg


Now look at the Military. You see the uppermost torx screw, excluding the pivot? When in the open position, the tang of the blade rests against that pin. If you're going to break the knife by cutting against something (that is, pushing against the edge and not the spine), you're going to have to somehow destroy that pin in the process (which is going to be very difficult to do, by the way).

C36G_L.jpg
 
The tenacious DOES have a stop pin. If you look at it's spine, you'll see the "inlayed" pin. Which you obviously cannot see because the G10 slabs are covering it. It is also a smaller pin, than the Military model.
 
Hmm, so the ZT knives are just 'different' then since a lot of them (maybe all, I'm not sure) have the thumbstuds that act as stop pins when the blade opens. On the 350, the thumbstud acts to stop the blade when closed as well as to stop it when it opens.
 
harkamus said:
Hmm, so the ZT knives are just 'different' then since a lot of them (maybe all, I'm not sure) have the thumbstuds that act as stop pins when the blade opens. On the 350, the thumbstud acts to stop the blade when closed as well as to stop it when it opens.
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You usually see that feature on knives with metal handles, such as Microtech manuals, but it is simply a design choice and not novel.
 
harkamus said:
I have a ZT 0350; which kind of liner lock is that?
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It's a frame-lock. The Titanium slab/handle scale acts as the lock, making it a frame-lock. If the Titanium slab/handle scale was covered by a G-10 handle scale, it would then be a liner-lock. Does that help any?

Regards,
3G
 
harkamus said:
I have a ZT 0350; which kind of liner lock is that?
Click to expand...

3Guardsmen said:
It's a frame-lock. The Titanium slab/handle scale acts as the lock, making it a frame-lock. If the Titanium slab/handle scale was covered by a G-10 handle scale, it would then be a liner-lock. Does that help any?

Regards,
3G
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Liner on the 0350. 0300, 0301 and 0302 variations are Ti framelocks.

mike
 
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