Liner question

J

jtwodogs

Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
421
I have seen so many beautiful knives with liners. The liner seems to add that extra little bit to a knife's overall looks. I have wanted to use liners in the past but hesitate thinking it is another place where a glue bond can fail.
Some of you that use them alot, reassure me that with proper care this would not be the case. Is there something unique about liner material that makes the bond better?
 
Last edited:
Not really unique. I use g10 for liners. I also drill holes trough the middle to allow some epoxy to pass through. Use good epoxy and corby bolts and you won't have to worry about it. As a matter of fact I'm doing some Bolivian rosewood and white g10 this afternoon and a bird and trout.
 
I have not but I would have some doubts as to it's ability to stick to the epoxy. Your best bet is to glue some up with some micarta or wood around it then kind of beat the mess out of it. I would venture to guess that it will separate at the plastic joint.
 
If you use good mechanical fasteners, it doesn't matter.
 
For me... I only use knife making liners. Have tried notebook plastic covers, they didnt stick as I think they are kinda oilyish, I even sanded them but they would pop off. I had problems with using brass sheets as liners as they did not want to stick metal to metal. I have not used corby bolts as I personally do not like the look, but they would be an improvement over simply relying on epoxy.
I have seen where they use threaded rods cut short for hidden pins, they have more area for epoxy grip, but dont use them for thru pins as the thread gap will show epoxy... by the way it is surprising how short the hidden pins need to be as the handles should be narrow and you dont want them to show thru after sanding.
I do the bridging of epoxy, sort of like a H turned on its side and corresponding to a similar H on the other side of the tang.
Hope this helps
 
I just use G10 sheet scuffed up good and epoxied to each scale first then the next day I scuff the remaining side of the G10(side that mates with tang), drill some holes thru the G10 so the drill penetrates my scale material slightly, clean it throughly, and do my final glue up. Seems to work very well for me. The key is scuffing, cleaning, and surface area for epoxy.

Jay
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top