Liner Relief Jig Material?

DanF

DanF

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
1,438
I want to make one, recommendations on steel or aluminum? I have aluminum but if steel would be better I’ll order some.
Thanks,

PS, I relieved a set of liners today manually, it was doable but the pics I have seen done with jigs look better/neater.
IMG_5756.jpeg
 
Last edited:
aluminum is okay for proto types or for personal stuff.

edit: I see we are talking about jigs like others have said you can and will likely want to start with aluminum and once a final design is figured out then use steel.
if this is going to be a daily driver then steel wold be best otherwise if you are only making a few here and there aluminum might be best due to convenience and being an easier metal to machine.

solid advise from Way-Barney,Ken H> and Natlek

​


i'm sure a few other will comment and give more and better advice on what might be best. I have not made many folders but want too in the future.
 
Last edited:
I have not got one or made one yet, so take this with a pinch of salt.
It depends on the type of jig, if its the simple rotate on the pivot pin around the cutter type, then I can forsee a force exerted on the pin and transfered to the hole, due to the action of the cutter, which could accelerate deformation and wear on the hole in an aluminum baseplate, It will work but for how long only experience will prove. A hardened piece of tool steel will last. But as with most designs you will see ways to improve the contraption and end up making another anyway. So aluminum, in this scenario, will suffice until the design is finalised. Then use tool steel.
 
For using every day, then steel would be best, even harden steel wouldn't be out of line to prevent wear in the holes. I use aluminum for the liner jig since I only make 2 or 3 slipjoints each year so wear isn't really an issue. I would consider using aluminum for the first jig, then once it wears out you'll know exactly how to make it.
 
Way-Barney said:
I have not got one or made one yet, so take this with a pinch of salt.
It depends on the type of jig, if its the simple rotate on the pivot pin around the cutter type, then I can forsee a force exerted on the pin and transfered to the hole, due to the action of the cutter, which could accelerate deformation and wear on the hole in an aluminum baseplate, It will work but for how long only experience will prove. A hardened piece of tool steel will last. But as with most designs you will see ways to improve the contraption and end up making another anyway. So aluminum, in this scenario, will suffice until the design is finalised. Then use tool steel.
Click to expand...
bronze bushing will solve that problem , and it's easy to replace when the time comes :thumbsup:
 
No opinion on the liner jig, but a comment on damascus folder blades:
Polish the pivot area face flat and smooth, then mask it off with nail polish or other resist before etching. That does two things. A smooth surface has less friction that a rippled damascus surface and it slightly raises the pivoting surface. I usually mask the area around the pivot hole in a circle, thus creating a ever-so-slightly raised bearing surface.

I don't do a lot of folders, but I usually use a thin phosphor bronze washer to separate the blade and the liner. It is simpler than relieving the liners.
 
Points taken Stacy, thanks.
I’ve used the ph/bronze washers a good bit also but I just don’t like the gap I see from the top then. I use,(the only ones I have found are 5 thousandths), maybe need to lap them thinner.
Thanks to all for your thoughts on the jig.
 
Anywhere from .005" to .020". It depends on the blade size and the degree of space needed. Check what the knife supply companies have in stock.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
I use 0.1mm ~ 4/1000 inch washers.
My HT guy makes them for me

Edit: and I use spring steel 0.2 thicker then the blade steel
Click to expand...
Maybe it's not the right place, but I'll mention it anyway :) I have a Swedish-made knife somewhere in the shop . Instead of one spring, there are two thinner ones . Isn't that a better solution? There should be less risk of breakage maybe .Why they do that ?
 
Volvo mentality, Their cars don't breakdown in my experience.
two is better than one, two timing belts, two fan belts etc.
if one breaks you still get home
 
I have a lockback I bought 7 or eight years ago with two springs. Wondered the same.
 
Had to dig this out. When I was becoming interested in folding knives I wanted to see how they worked without actually tearing a knife apart so I bought one kit of each style I was interested in. A different model, but still a lockback had only one spring vs the two in this model (upper right in the case).
The single spring model had a super strong action I thought.
IMG_5761.jpeg
 
DanF, that's a neat kit - I see it has two springs but are both to be used at the same time? One looks "thinner" than the other as if the plan was to choose which spring to use depending on amount of pressure desired. Are they the same thickness as the blade? OR, does it take both springs to equal thickness of blade?
 
Not sure of the manufacturers intention, but both springs equal the thickness of the blade and the “release” piece. Combined, they seem to give the same pressure as I have experienced on bought lockbacks. I would think that just one spring may try to twist a bit, but I am not sure of that, I can only speculate with my limited knowledge of lockbacks.
If anyone else knows feel free to speak up please.

Edit to ad, both springs are the same thickness, one is just shoved down deeper in the foam
 
DanF said:
Not sure of the manufacturers intention, but both springs equal the thickness of the blade and the “release” piece. Combined, they seem to give the same pressure as I have experienced on bought lockbacks. I would think that just one spring may try to twist a bit, but I am not sure of that, I can only speculate with my limited knowledge of lockbacks.
If anyone else knows feel free to speak up please.

Edit to ad, both springs are the same thickness, one is just shoved down deeper in the foam
Click to expand...
I think that one is spare if ever other one ever break ?
 
Spare as in using only one? Or a backup?
Using only one leaves a nasty, unsightly gap on the back side?
IMG_5765.jpeg
🤷‍♂️ beats me, but a spare would make sense but the gap back there doesn’t?
 
I misread this :) but both springs equal the thickness of the blade and the “release” piece
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top