Linerlock for bushcraft.

Holy......how idiot-proof does life have to be ? I've got a framelock that I put together from a blank. I like that it can be opened and closed with one hand. Obviously it has limitations, but damn, nobody give that guy a balisong or a slipjoint folder !

If it's an issue, grinding it a bit seems like a good solution, or you could crank down the pivot if the geometry doesn't make it too tough to open.
 
The concern I have in my own use is when I am twisting or drilling a hole with the tip in leather or any twisting motion. I usually use all fixed blades but do have a few linerlocks.
 
I have never personally had a quality-made liner lock close on me that way during bushcraft use. More often, I've had thin titanium or other flexible metal liners bend -- flex__ and cause the lock to disengage that way. I tend not to twist the blades in the way that may happen in a self-defense situation, though. My larger folder, which I have used extensively and hard in real-world field conditions, has a stainless steel liner, and has never once come close to fialure in any way. I won't buy a liner lock of any type unless it has a steel liner now.
 
i don't have any quality liner locks, just a couple of junky beaters i lend out or use for abusive tasks...

have never abused one to the point of failure though.

and none of my EDC slipjoints have ever given me trouble...i just keep in mind which direction pushing will close the blade, and make sure i don't push it so that it will close the blade. don't cut with the spine of the knife, cut with the edge. don't pull out of a cut too hard (the most trouble i have had is binding in cardboard. tendency is to pull up, which would close a blade.)
 
Its hard to justify pushing a folder IMO. And my argument against framelocks and linerlocks is always the same. Comfort. Those clips cause blisters and I don't likem.
 
Fiddleback said:
Its hard to justify pushing a folder IMO.
Click to expand...

I agree. Every variety, style, and configuration of blade has its strong and weak performance points, and strong and weal strength points. We should all know not to treat a folder like a 1/4" thick fixed blade. And you won't see me prying ANYTHING with the blade of my SAK Rucksack, yet I'd rely on that nyday as my only blade in the woods.
 
That is just one of the many reasons why I don't use folders when I have perfectly good fixed blades available. You should always consider a folder a folder, which is to say that the blade folds, no matter how high tech a lock it's got on it. Folders just can't be treated like you can treat even the flimsiest fixed blade, let alone a quarter inch thick hard use knife. Just know the limitations of the tool, and you'll do okay with it. I can't see where I would have to twist a folder like that, except in a self-defense scenario, where all bets are off. Outside self-defense, I wouldn't worry about that kind of thing - but I would seriously consider getting a tool that you can be slightly more careless with, such as a fixed blade. ;)
 
I don't know about others, but I have never had a problem. I've carried and used many different linerlocks in the field without a closure. I don't think there would be a problem any quality linerlock folder. You can tell just by look and feel if the lock is engaging properly.
 
I,ve have had too many folders do exactly that, Fold.

I still think that folders and some small fixed blades are the best thing to carry in town and I always have one or two on me all the time.

But for the outdoors I add Fixed Blades to what I already carry.
 
I agree, in the end, even though I'd be comfortable with my SAK Rucksack, I always have a fixed blade with me whenever I go out there. I learned to use the smaller blades so that I'd feel comfortable working with smaller and less stout blades, in case I found myself in that position.
 
I've never had one fold on me but I've only used two. Both Kershaws. I'm left handed and they just aren't lefty friendly.

I have noticed that my index finger can loosen/move the liner lock if I torque down on the grip and if I put effort into it, I can move the lock enough to close without as much twisting as shown in the video. Just not comfortable with 'em. At least not in the left paw.

Chris
 
The guy who made that video illustrates the following point perfectly, but he does so because he does not grasp it.

Folding knives fold.
They are not fixed blades, and should not be treated as such.
The pivot and lock can both fail, so proper care should be taken to ensure that injury does not result.
As long as you don't forget that folding knives fold, you'll be fine. People used knives with NO lock for generations, and were just fine, because they knew how to properly use their tools. I, among hundreds of thousands of other people, still use folding knives with no lock. As long as you recognize what you're dealing with, you'll be fine.

I use liner lock knives all the time, for all kinds of applications, and I've still got all of my fingers. Just be smart.
</my two cents>
 
I haven't had one close on me either. Another solution is to get one of the CRKTs that has the LAWKS system. I can attest that this takes most any fear of lock failure away.
 
And let's not forget the difference between a lock failing due to structural weaknesses, and design failure, by which I mean "how easily the lock can be accidentally disengaged."

So, along the lines of what puukoman said, I have always told people, "Not all locks fail, but any lock can be accidentally disengaged during use."

If you can manually unlock on purpose, you can manually unlock it by accident. I will bet any amount of money on this for any folder lock system yet devised, anywhere. Not that I have a lot of money right now!

I remember CJ Caracci effectively demonstrating how the Axis lock could be disengaged accidentally, when it was the newest thing out, and thought to be impervious.
 
Brian Jones said:
And let's not forget the difference between a lock failing due to structural weaknesses, and design failure, by which I mean "how easily the lock can be accidentally disengaged."

.
Click to expand...

This is what I find when I use a Liner Lock.

I have found that the Lock Failures that have happened to me is, I have a strong grip that can on some frames flex enough to make the lock disengage.

This does not happen with frame locks though. With this kind of lock i find that my finger holds the lock in position.
 
555 said:
This is what I find when I use a Liner Lock.

I have found that the Lock Failures that have happened to me is, I have a strong grip that can on some frames flex enough to make the lock disengage.

This does not happen with frame locks though. With this kind of lock i find that my finger holds the lock in position.
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555, I hear ya, but I can envision scenarios where something jams in between the scales strong enough to "push out" the frame lock. All of this is just about probabilities, though. The only question we can ask is, "Which type of lock is least likely to be accidentally disengaged?"
 
Boy Scouts use slip joints for this. Fixed blades have been banned in many Scout places. I always recommended small fixed blades for bushcraft when I was assistant Scoutmaster, but times have changed. I think the little Mora Swedish Army knife would be safer than what they use now.
 
Brian Jones said:
I have never personally had a quality-made liner lock close on me that way during bushcraft use. More often, I've had thin titanium or other flexible metal liners bend -- flex__ and cause the lock to disengage that way. I tend not to twist the blades in the way that may happen in a self-defense situation, though. My larger folder, which I have used extensively and hard in real-world field conditions, has a stainless steel liner, and has never once come close to fialure in any way. I won't buy a liner lock of any type unless it has a steel liner now.
Click to expand...


I've not had a linerlock fail on me either and I own some CRKT that a lot of folks would not touch on here ( to each their own ) but , I do the exact thing this gent does to his linerlocks , file it down so it is lower than the frame , same thing goes for framelocks if the lockbar is machined higher than the other side of the handle.
 
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