Linerlock parts list and a couple questions

T

Tkrocky

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Sep 6, 2013
Messages
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Hey guys, between ticonnector and usaknifemaker I ordered everything I think I need for getting into linerlocks. I'm sure I missed some things, and there are a few things I have some questions about before I order them. If any of you guys could chime in on what else I may need, or see problems with what I already got, it would be greatly appreciated! I figure this could be a good resource for others who would like to venture into folders and don't know where to start.

Already bought:
-3/16" pivot sets. I also bought replacement barrels in every length, as they were inexpensive
-2-56 x .165 threaded standoffs
-.172 thick Elmax. (I figure once it is cleaned up I could slowly lap it to thickness on my surface plate)
-2-56 button head screws
-2-56 flat head screws (I got them both 3/8" long planning on shortening them as needed)
-3/16" caged ceramic bearings
-preformed pocket clips.
-.380 counter bore with a 3/16" pilot
- 1/16" ceramic detents
-.070 thick 6al-4v titanium. ( I realize this may be a bit thick but I wanted to have enough meat for the bearing pocket and I figured I could cut a relief in the lock bar. Does that sound reasonable?)

Need to get:
-#13 (or 14? I forgot) drill bit and 3/16" reamer
Some thicker titanium for backspacer
-#51 drill bit (i actually would get the smaller size bit and a #51 reamer.)
-some sort of piloted countersink for the 2-56 screws
-a counterbore for the 2-56 button head screws for sinking them into the scales
-2-56 tap -this is my big question. There are taper, plug, and some other type of tap. Which are the best for my purpose?
Also, is it worth it to go solid carbide for the reamers and stuff?

Thanks guys, I am super excited to get into these folders once my 2 broken broken arms heal up and I catch up on some orders!



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I don't see stop pins on your list. I'd say with the hardware you've selected, 1/8" pins would be appropriate. I buy hardened pins from McMaster-Carr. I do not ream my tapped holes but, it is important to buy high quality drills to hold good tolerances. I use USA made cobalt drills from Suncoast Precision Tool for most everything. My reamers, counterbores, and countersinks are all carbide. I also keep a couple carbide straight flute drills in the most commonly used sizes. You will need a carbide #53 to drill your detent hole in the hardened blade. You won't need Ti for the backspacer if you are using standoffs. Reamer for the pivot screws? If you are going to tap any blind holes, you will need some bottoming taps. Taper taps are more reliable in hand tapping; I use plug taps in a Tapmatic.

Bob
 
RangerBobTX said:
I don't see stop pins on your list. I'd say with the hardware you've selected, 1/8" pins would be appropriate. I buy hardened pins from McMaster-Carr. I do not ream my tapped holes but, it is important to buy high quality drills to hold good tolerances. I use USA made cobalt drills from Suncoast Precision Tool for most everything. My reamers, counterbores, and countersinks are all carbide. I also keep a couple carbide straight flute drills in the most commonly used sizes. You will need a carbide #53 to drill your detent hole in the hardened blade. You won't need Ti for the backspacer if you are using standoffs. Reamer for the pivot screws? If you are going to tap any blind holes, you will need some bottoming taps. Taper taps are more reliable in hand tapping; I use plug taps in a Tapmatic.

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the reply! I actually did get 1/8 stop pins, just forgot to list them. That's good to know about not reaming the screw holes. I didn't think about what bit for detents either. I was going to a couple with standoffs and a couple with backspacers. For the reamer, should it be a tapered reamer?


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The only holes I ream are Pivot & Stop Pin. You need the close tolerance of a straight reamer not tapered for alignment.
 
Sounds like a plan and yes I'd go all carbide on the reamers and counterbore.
 
Awesome, thanks guys I really appreciate the help. I may turn this into a WIP And ask some more questions. Maybe it could be a good information thread


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Before the design is finalized, always go up a screw size or two if you can.

Now you have #2 screws listed, can you go up to #4 or 6 ?



Easier drilling, easier tapping, stronger screws but fewer threads per inch.
 
12345678910 said:
Before the design is finalized, always go up a screw size or two if you can.

Now you have #2 screws listed, can you go up to #4 or 6 ?



Easier drilling, easier tapping, stronger screws but fewer threads per inch.
Click to expand...

Good advice. I will look into that for sure


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