Linger Wilderness Survival Knife/Tracker Style

Myakka

Myakka

Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
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trackerandsheath2pq.jpg
 
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Thanks for the review Ron; I have been waiting for a good report on the saw's capabilities. I must say though, that I hated this design the first time I saw it, but as one becomes more educated about the requirements of a knife for certain situations, one begins to understand the ingenuity that went into it. It’s very difficult to have an 'all singing all dancing' tool, but this one seems to accomplish most jobs admirably.

Rogers work, is of course, breathtakingly precise, and no matter how long it takes, it’s worth it.

I have a RL SCK in the works from your initial design. This will be in D2 though, with some darling Ironwood scales. I will send you some pics when she is done.
 
Ron and Rodger:

I was waiting to see if the saw really works and it does!!! I'm surprised the TOPS version, which I have held can saw at all.

My question for the two of you is what part of the knife can be used to pound stuff like tent pegs (wood or plastic), etc, but not metal on metal. Is the tail end of the handle strong enough, or would it be better to leave the end of the tang exposed. It makes sense to me to thin out the tang like you have to keep the weight down a bit, but it appears to be too thin to do much pounding.

Also for Rodger, I assume I can get a kydex sheath???

Mike in Seattle
 
Mike in Seattle said:
what part of the knife can be used to pound stuff like tent pegs (wood or plastic)
Click to expand...
The side of the blade. Using the butt of the handle as a hammer endangers your hand in case you miss the peg with the improvised hammer.

Best bet is to use something other than your knife as a hammer, especially if it's the only blade you've got with you.
 
Mike,
The side of the knife could be used to pound stakes in, but like RokJok said I personally would never use my knife for that purpose. For hammering or pounding just use a large stick or rock, why abuse your most important tool.

Ron
 
Mike, I suggest not unless we make one with an exposed tang end. As you suggested, the tang taper should be less for that purpose. Depending on knife I usually taper tangs to as thin as 25 to 30 mil and on the WSK probably closer to 40 to 50 mil (thousanths of inch). Maybe as thin as 80 mil would be okay.

The only other part of knife I think might work for that is the concave portion of blade spine (that part just rear of teeth). That could be a hazard if the object being struck has a spring to it. A man could end up with a hatchet edge stuck in his face. Please don't go beating on my poor little handle though unless you have to hit the enemy over his head ;) .

I do not as yet have a kydex sheath maker and I have decided not to make sheaths. I will leave that to the sheath makers and the one I have, Jamie Briggs, is top notch. I am sure we can find a very good source for your kydex sheath though.

Ron, you should be a magazine author. You write well without a waste of words.

RL
 
RLinger, i was planning on leaving my tang the full 1/4" thickness, for better balance. would you advise against this? is it really that great to have so much forward weight? a better balanced knife wouldnt be as good for chopping but it would make it easier to handle when skinning or carving. where was the balance point on myakka's? i usually like mine to be at the ricasso.
 
elven,

I imagine Myakka's confirmation would be best but as I recall the point of balance on this one is at front of handle scales. I strongly advise taking the extra effort to taper the tang. It adds much to most of our knife designs. As stated by the author it aids in leverage. It helps in balance. It helps eleviate overall weight. It looks good and it shows the customer you went the extra mile to make him a quality knife. I made several knives before tapering tangs. The largest problem not being able to was because I did not have proper equipment. Knife makers really hounded me until I was finally able to scrap up enough to buy a Norman Coote 2 X 72 grinder, which did enable me to properly taper tangs. I have never looked back.

RL
 
Very nice looking knife, after reading your post I can see the benifits of this design. Thanks for sharing.
 
I can't wait to get my hands on one of these bad boys. I've held the TOPS version and I have to say that the quality just isn't there. Tom Brown is doing himself and his knife design a grave injustice by comissioning TOPS to mass produce his WSK.
I count the days until I wrap my mits on Roger's custom (drool). In the spring, I train West Point Cadets on Widerness Survival Training. Hopefully, my WSK will be ready in time for my first class. If so, I will surely put this knife through the ropes for 2 weeks, while humping through the "bush". My Camillus Cuda CQB will have to take a back seat, to this monster.
I will report my findings, once I return back to civilization :) . Until then, Roger keep up the good work and everyone have a blessed New Year.. Sarge Out...
 
myakka, quick question, where is the chopping contact point on the knife? i've heared that on this style of knife you end up making contact with the "hook" instead of the hatchet end, on rogers knife is this also true, do you think a slight angle between blade and handle (like the beck wsk) would improve chopping or rather improve the ease of chopping? after noticing how you say its already an unbelievable chopper, i dont know if this would be a good inovation or not.
 
logoboat,

The chopping sweet spot is about 1 inch above the hook in the hatchet part of the blade. I believe this is because of Rogers tapered tang, it really helped to improve this knife's design.
 
thanks myakka, really wish i could handle the knife before i shell out 500 and wait a couple monthes, but if what you say is true, then it'll be well worth the money and the wait. cant wait till i can put in my order!
 
That makes two of us Logo. I put in my order already, but I can't stand the wait. As far as "shelling" out $500 for it -- well, think of it like this; one of Dave Beck's WSKs sold on EBAY in upwards of $800+. From the looks of it, Roger's version maybe equal to (or may even exceed) Dave's in terms of quality and craftmanship. Think of it as an investment, that will appreciate over time. There is such a demand for this design, but so few people that can pull it off, properly. I think Roger has the skill to definitely surpass Dave's success. One can only hope that he doesn't get "burned out" like Dave or suffer any health issues.
 
As a question, how does it skin an animal with such an evil bevil to chop tree?

With the handle grip how could you actualy butcher an animal?

With the saw top edge..how could you mak an eylet in a 1/2" twig?
There is no way your hand could rest befoe the tip!

Pulling fat from the hid..ya given! Scraping the hide? O YA!!!!!

but cum on now....who you trying to sell to???
most of the real out dorsmen only carry litteraly ****** folders or maybe a shittly fixed blade.
Only a natter would buy that blade.

I expect it to sell very well.
 
A well though out argument on the pro's and con's of such a knife and so eloquently put too. :rolleyes:
 
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