Lippincott

Nsmc4

Nsmc4

Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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37
Helped my Mother clean out her garage this past weekend and snagged a few tools in the process. One is an axe that belonged to my step-father who died 5 years ago.

I could barely make out the markings when I found it but they showed up nicely after a vinegar bath.

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/3WZrE

I'm not an axe man, so could anyone tell me about the Lippincott line from Kelly Works/True Temper? Or point me to a good resource?

Also, I'm in process of restoring it and have ordered a couple double bit handles from House Handle. Got a 30" and a 36". Axe had a 36" on it. Does it matter which length for this particular 3.5 lb head? 30" seems a better fit for me. I'll only be using it for very occasional light work around the farm.

Thanks in advance for any info!
 
From an earlier thread,

In the 1938 catalog, the True Temper "Lippencott" axes are said to be "bronzed and labeled, with polished blades", which can give you an idea of what it looked like brand new (bottom left):

BookReaderImages.php


from https://archive.org/stream/TrueTemperToolsCatalog1R1938/True Temper Tools Catalog 1-R 1938#page/n153/mode/1up
 
"Kelly Works" was generally used after the 1930 takeover of the company by American Fork & Hoe. By the time of their 1957 catalog, the "Lippincott" brand (along with some others) were evidently dropped. This 1930-1957 range give a rough idea about when this axe could have been manufactured.

True Temper Striking Tools Catalog A57 (1957)
 
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As to suggestions for handle length the actual user is by far the best judge. There are standard recommended lengths for standard head weights but only factories religiously adhere to them. In your case crudely fit both handles to the head and don't 'set' the wedge. Then mildly 'field test' both of them in situations that the axe might be used! Handles that are too short have a small swing radius which causes them to deflect into boots or other vulnerable humanly goodies.
 
short ones are handy, but you might kneecap yourself, no mafia required. on the other hand, long handles need more space and add weight but are safer and add more speed to the swing
 
I have a Lippincott Jersey single bit that I hafted on a 36" handle. I am around 5'9" - it has a very nice swing.
 
I wouldn't say the OP's axe is a Michigan pattern (although I'd rule out the Western). FWIW, here is a comparison to two advertising drawings. One is from the 1938 A F & H Co True Temper Tools catalog. The other from the 1957 True Temper Striking Tools catalog:



I've been curious about what "bronzed" is. So far I haven't found any information and as far as I know I haven't seen a bronzed axe (or picture). To me the OP's axe looks like any other after vinegar. If that axe was bronzed I would think there would be a visible difference. That or it was a very poor finish and wore away quickly.

Love to know if anyone has any info on "bronzed" axes.


Bob
 
I wonder if bronzed isn't the same coloring treatment that some axes received in their stamp? Usually its the fancier stamps that get it but I have seen in in Stiletto stamped axes.
 
rjdankert said:
I've been curious about what "bronzed" is. So far I haven't found any information and as far as I know I haven't seen a bronzed axe (or picture). To me the OP's axe looks like any other after vinegar. If that axe was bronzed I would think there would be a visible difference. That or it was a very poor finish and wore away quickly.

Love to know if anyone has any info on "bronzed" axes.


Bob
Click to expand...
Maybe this is one of those.
I suspect it is not natural patina, and some kind of "bronzing" process was involved (edge and poll area)
IMG-20200517-181454085.jpg

IMG-20200517-181110508.jpg

https://bladeforums.com/threads/wal...ons-and-maybe-learning-something-new.1729303/
 
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