List of acceptable Heat Treaters....

Nathan the Machinist said:
Peter's heat treat would be at the top of my list
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except it might be $600 for I think 13-14 blanks.
not including shipping. Unless I read their pricing page wrong.....

If I were stuck with Peter's, I'm done making blades for the year.... :rolleyes:
 
Peters has been awfully damn good to me. I'm definitely not the best customer . My knives are all over the place as far as size, thickness , type of steel ,geometry,etc. I send them mixed batches of steel all the time. I don't even specify what Rockwell hardness I want figuring that Brad knows The Sweet spot for most steel anyway. Sometimes I forget to label the steel and some nice person will call me on the phone and verify. I've even sent in a knife that I forgot to take the bronze guard and fittings off. I know for a fact I sent in a couple of knives that I knew were bowed and warped and they came back straighter than when I sent them. Torch marks don't affect me unless I'm working with a carbon steel that I'm going to parkerize or put some type of forced patina, then sometimes the color will be different in the torch mark area, I'm just thankful that they straighten them at all. The more symmetrical I make my knives the less torch marks I see. If I lost Peter's it would devastate me it would be one of those fundamental changes like having to get a new job or move to a different town. I would have to rethink my whole knife making process.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
except it might be $600 for I think 13-14 blanks.
not including shipping. Unless I read their pricing page wrong.....

If I were stuck with Peter's, I'm done making blades for the year.... :rolleyes:
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13 blades of the same type is 132+9x4=168.
That's just under $13 per blade plus shipping.
 
Richard338 said:
13 blades of the same type is 132+9x4=168.
That's just under $13 per blade plus shipping.
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All true, but I have (4 types) I might just have to grind em, and Scrap em....... haha

*I emailed Byington, so I'm hopeful it might be less.

Or at least I'll have to spread it out some to lessen the Pain ;)
 
Crag the Brewer said:
All true, but I have (4 types) I might just have to grind em, and Scrap em....... haha

*I emailed Byington, so I'm hopeful it might be less.

Or at least I'll have to spread it out some to lessen the Pain ;)
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Call and talk to Brian, much faster that way!
 
Peters trashed about 20 of my AEB-L blades with their torch straightening technique. I’m glad they did actually, convinced me to buy my own oven. They told me AKS sold me bad steel, just to tell you what kind of person Brad is, rather than admitting he screwed them up with the torch.
 
I used to send Brad blades in bundles of 100 or more. Almost every one I got back was covered with torch marks all over the back. I stopped sending them blades. I do my own again right now but will send them to Jerod Todd when I get going at full speed again.

While Peter's says the marks are only superficial, they are not. They show in the finished blade as a temper-line semicircle at the spine. Only way to minimize them was to use a 120 grit finish and then a coarse Scotch-Brite belt.

This is all sad, because the HT from Peter's was always spot on.
 
eric brinkerhoff said:
Peters has been awfully damn good to me. I'm definitely not the best customer . My knives are all over the place as far as size, thickness , type of steel ,geometry,etc. I send them mixed batches of steel all the time. I don't even specify what Rockwell hardness I want figuring that Brad knows The Sweet spot for most steel anyway. Sometimes I forget to label the steel and some nice person will call me on the phone and verify. I've even sent in a knife that I forgot to take the bronze guard and fittings off. I know for a fact I sent in a couple of knives that I knew were bowed and warped and they came back straighter than when I sent them. Torch marks don't affect me unless I'm working with a carbon steel that I'm going to parkerize or put some type of forced patina, then sometimes the color will be different in the torch mark area, I'm just thankful that they straighten them at all. The more symmetrical I make my knives the less torch marks I see. If I lost Peter's it would devastate me it would be one of those fundamental changes like having to get a new job or move to a different town. I would have to rethink my whole knife making process.oo
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I feel like I'm digging a Bigger hole......

I need some Help, please.

Because of seeing JT bogged down, possibly not taking more work.
In my head I decided to try Bos.
But I "only" had 3 A2 blades and a few AEB-L blades.
Figured I needed more to be economical, so I made an emergency order to Pops buying more than I needed including a 3v bar.

I was originally planning on just profiling the 3v, then off to heat treating.

I started reading more, and panicked, read more, panicked more, idk what to do??? I rough ground one of my four 3v blades to .050"

Is that good?
Should I do ALL of them to that? More?
Or just profile?

They are supposed to be an 1/8" thick, but are more like .156

I'm using ceramic belts, but WOW..... This stuff is Tough!
I thought A2 was tough, before.
Idk how ill grind it Hard?

 
Peters' FAQ says 0.015" at the edge, or 0.03" for oil hardening. I usually leave about 0.03" either way since I have a few grits to go through when it comes back.
 
I sent 4, 3/16" thick 3V blades (and 19 other blades in a variety of steels) to Paul Bos for heat treating and ground them post hardening with no issues on my 2x72 variable speed. Did the same for a CPM 20CV blade (2.4" wide, 17.75" cutting edge, .110" thick stock) and ground that all post HT. CPM 20CV is a bear to grind post HT!! 3V didn't seem that bad at all! Harder than AEB-L/Nitro V or Carbon steels after hardening, but I am used to grinding hardened steel. Still got one more 3V to grind soon!
 
Just for info. Just got off the phone with Byington. They are not doing oil quenched high carbon steels anymore. I was looking to send a small batch of 26C3 to them while JT is still in limbo but no go.
 
Kind of off topic, but does anyone have any specific info on the torch straightening technique used by Peters.
 
JMJones said:
Kind of off topic, but does anyone have any specific info on the torch straightening technique used by Peters.
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Put the area you want to straighten under compression (bend it opposite way) and use an oxy-acetylene torch with a small welding tip and heat the side you want to shrink (at the spine). A common propane torch will probably not get hot enough fast enough.

Bada-bing

Hoss
 
JMJones said:
Kind of off topic, but does anyone have any specific info on the torch straightening technique used by Peters.
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ZH3Pm0H.jpg

My experience was, everywhere that was discolored by the torch, a fine line would start appearing during hand sanding. The line would get bigger as I sanded, and everything single one of them broke. Every. Single. One. JT saw the picture I posted a while back and called it immediately, you got it heat treated by Peter’s, they straightened it with a torch, and they’re all going to crack where he hit it with the torch. According to Brad, from Peter’s, it was bad steel from AKS. Funny enough, I’ve never had that problem from anywhere else.
 
I had that problem with several blades, nitro v and some cts xhp blades. The worst part would be that the crack wouldn't really show until the knife was completely finished. A couple custom orders broke as I was doing the final sharpening.
I started flex testing the blades once they were rough ground and had a few more break. Now I always flex test at this stage and I always plan for a few fubared blades in my batches. Even with all these issues I still feel lucky that there are people out there willing to heat treat my blades. There are too many variables in all this to expect 100% success. It sure sucks though when you get a whole messed up batch. Its happened to me twice now and one time it basically ruined a years worth of my work, lol, live and learn. Id love to spend a few grand on equipment and start heat treating myself but I have no dang place to put the equipment.

edit to add: this has nothing to do with unevenly ground blades pre heat treatment. The torch straightening happens on blanks with no bevels ground.
 
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