List of woods requiring stabilization?

R

ritzblitz

Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
293
Hi everyone,

I used to have a partial list of exotic woods that showed which ones required stabilization and which didn't. I have since lost this list somehow and am wondering if there is a website with this information on it or if someone can whip something up quick?

Thanks alot guys!

Alex
 
Yeah,
I'm looking for the same info. Or maybe, what woods "don't" require stabilization?

Me too thanks
Richard
 
Any wood that has an oily base will not take stabilizing. Rosewoods are on the top of the list. I have done home stabilizing of Ironwood and Snakewood. I have heard that ironwood will bleed its oil for months after high pressure stabilization. Any wood that will take the process I feel wwill benefit from it. Tere are several different processes also. Some inject resins that make the wood feel plastisized. Other types are like Nelsonite which is more of a waterproofing (the best I can describe it) but creates a highly stable wood that still feels like wood. Pool Cue manufacturers use it on their woods with great success. I personnaly would stay away from most pines or firs. There is a way to remove the pitch but is it really worth it? If it will take a polish without digging into the grain then it does not require stabilization.

Sorry this is so disjointed but it was how I was thinking.

Chuck
 
I think that you could probably get a great list from Mike Ludemann at Wood Stabilizing Specialist, Inc. (WSSI). His contact information can be found on his website: www.stabilizedwood.com

His website is full of good information and technical data on wood stabilization. I've met Mike on numerous occasions. He's a super nice guy and is easy to work with.
 
If there is any doubt, call Mike at WSSI. He will tell you if it works or not.
No on - Rosewood, snakewood, ebony,ironwood,cocobola

Required on -maple burl, buckeye burl,redwood burl,most all softer woods, most burl woods

Most any wood benefits from stabilizing. All stabilizing is not the same ,as Chuck said. Mike at WSSI does the best job of any I have seen. I know there is a large group of folks who do their own "stabilizing" with nelsonite, minwax, parafin, and snake oil. But, these processes don't hold a candle to having it done by the pros with the right chemicals. The way to keep the costs down is to have the wood stabilized in larger blocks and cut the handles and scales from the blocks after stabilizing. The more you get done at a time, the better the pricing,too.
Stacy
 
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