Little help Cliff. What's the best way to sharpen Dendritic steel?

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Carbides enhance wear resistance by becoming inherently harder (carbides can form of different crystal structure even out of the same alloys) and by become finer dispersed through the material.

However carbides themselves don't add to any cutting ability as they are too small, typically you are talking about something the size of 1-10 microns (one being very fine like 52100 and ten being coarse like D2), and even very fine abrasive like a fine India stone is > 50 micron. If you leave the edge with a really coarse finish, the abrasive size is so large that it masks any carbide structure of the steel.

The easiest way to think about this is to look at the flats of the blade. Some steels take a mirror polish better than others, however if you scratch them up badly with a coarse hone, do they look any different, no because the scratches are way bigger than any carbides.

Boyes knives cut well because of the geometry which is finer than the *vast* majority of knives (though this is starting to become less of an issue with many production knives being as finely ground) and he was among the first to promote coarser edges (and again this is now more well known).

I have used several of his knives and they don't maintain a more aggressive finish at high polishes due to the carbide structure, it is trivial to make a 52100 blade outslice them for example by leaving it with a rougher grit.

The only real effect of have seen which is carbide related in regards to aggression is a "self-sharpening" effect I have seen with heavy use. With coarse grained steels the edge will chip / tear out and thus the sharpness increases after awhile as the edge breaks into a saw where a finer ground edge will just wear smooth.

This is interesting but not personally useful as by the time the blade starts doing that, it is well past the point where I would have long sharpened it (<<25% of optimal sharpness).

Note as well that if the carbides were so large that they stuck out from the edge (like a fraction of a mm) and made a saw, they would just all crack off as soon as they were used as carbide is *way* fragile unless well supported by the steel matrix so only the surface is exposed.
 
Calling all Boye owners!
Bringing up an old thread because I am purchasing an old Boye knife from the 80s from when he still had his shop in the Santa Cruz area in California. It is a Francine etched drop point hunter with an Ironwood handle and I am trying to learn the best way to sharpen it and maintain the edge. What I am gathering is it is designed to have a more more “toothy” edge because of the properties of the cast. Question is, will the newer one side toothy and the other polished give this knife the best of both worlds result? Is a DMT fine stone ideal for this knife? I hear that this knife is not tough, but what other metals would you liken it to so I keep it within its limits and not break or chip it? My initial thoughts were to get it to a mirror edge, but after reading this thread, it seems it needs to have at least one side “toothy” and let it develop a saw tooth edge but is that still the best understanding for this knife? I am trying to adapt to the knife and not adapt the knife for me and use as intended or within the unique qualities but I do love a fine edge. Also, what is the best way to sharpen in terms of how you stroke it on the sharpener in terms of how hard you press and only one direction perpendicular to the edge, etcetera.
Thank you for your input.
 
792-B189-C-3544-48-A6-B81-A-2-DE10-B66-CBE0.jpg

Here is the knife
I think she is a beauty
I have been whittling with it so excuse the extraneous marks on the blade
 
F Fir Na Tine You may get better results in the Maintenance section - suggest starting a new thread there. A mod will not move this thread if you didn't start it.

That said, this is an interesting question. I think the steel is comparable to the steel in Terrains knives. They do not recommend sharpening like a conventional steel. I.E. do not sharpen to the point you are raising and removing a burr. Keep it toothy, then strop, was the basic advice I got from Terrain on their blade (I no longer have the email or I would copy it here). It sounds like you have done your homework. As to your question what is comparable, Terrain Kinves seems like the modern equivalent.

I never felt I got the hang of sharpening the blade on my Otter to my liking. It was OK, not great, but I just wasnt enamored enough with the knife to keep trying to get the hang of such an unusual steel. (Is it even steel?)

Honestly, that piece of yours looks too nice to make a user. It's a nice collector's piece with a bit of history. Were it me, I'd carefully work on getting a nice edge with some cautious use of stones and a strop, and see what you get.
 
Good advice from TRfromMT TRfromMT . We'll close this one and ask F Fir Na Tine to pursue the matter in the Maintenance / Tinkering / Embellishment sub-forum.
 
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