Living in Paradise Can Be Annoying

It might not have happened to you but it can. It can also become toxic and be harmful to consume so there is a actual health risk involved if the blade is used on food.
 
Jason B. said:
It might not have happened to you but it can. It can also become toxic and be harmful to consume so there is a actual health risk involved if the blade is used on food.
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That's why you rinse off the blade etc before using it, pretty normal for me anyway....

I use a lot of non stainless stuff in the kitchen.....

Some things will rust within a day or so if not coated... That's real rust......

Put PAM on them and they can go for months and still not have a speck of rust on them....

Been using it for the better part of 20 years and never had a problem.....

For long term storage I use Renaissance Wax.....
 
I'm a huge fan of Eezox as a protectant. Try to avoid getting it into pivot areas on folders, or the actions of guns, as it will dry to a slightly tacky texture, which makes it tenacious as a protectant. However, it will stick-up those other areas. Certainly not foodsafe, as the poster above me points out.
 
pinkpearl8130 said:
Hmm, I've never heard of lanolin spray. I'll have to look into that.

I've heard a lot of talk of mineral oil with traditionals. Why is mineral oil good to use?
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Chris "Anagarika";13629477 said:
Mineral oil is food safe and econimical. For better rust prevention, check the test linked above.

BTW, nice balisongs! The long silver one looks like mine from years ago ;)
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Chris got it. Mineral oil is a lubricant & short term rust preventer. Cheap, food safe, clean(transparent). Oils don't stay put long, unless they dry out, which usually means the film cracks.
I was happily using silicon lubricant on modern folders, but when I started using some carbon trads, it didn't seem to work well. I went to old fashioned oil, & found it works much better on a slip joint.

VictorLouis said:
I'm a huge fan of Eezox as a protectant. Try to avoid getting it into pivot areas on folders, or the actions of guns, as it will dry to a slightly tacky texture, which makes it tenacious as a protectant. However, it will stick-up those other areas. Certainly not foodsafe, as the poster above me points out.
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For long term storage, waxes & greases are better than oils. The film doesn't dry out or wick into the covering or drip off. Lanolin is wool grease. it is stable, non acidic, good for wood & metal & leather. It is skin safe, used in pharmaceutical skin creams. You can find it in auto parts shops & wood working suppliers. Many of the recommendations for rust preventions here are waxes & greases, as with Victors suggestion. I don't worry too much about getting it into the joint, as I use lanolin mostly on collectables, not users, & it will wash out anyway.
 
I live in Missouri and the humidity is pretty outrageous, I've always used mineral oil on em. It's thicker and works for me. Cheap stuff as well. If you're going for a patina there are ways to force patinas as mentioned previously. All my knives get a nice patina from the action they see. Well that's my .02. Best of luck.
 
I live in south Louisiana where the humidity stays high year round (above 90% during the summer). I have 3 Schrade Deerslayers made of 1070 that I mostly use for skinning & cooking & I just clean them really good & let them dry before I put them up. I dont have a whole lot of issues with rust on them.

When I bought my edc knives I looked for steels like AUS-8,ATS-34, ATS-55 & now VG-10. I worked the R/R for 20 years & came home soaking wet most days. I just rinsed them, dried them & wore them the next day. If any rust whom peek its ugly head, the only thing I had was WD-40. It worked well.

I once gave my Dad an older Spyderco Endura 1 (in A2 I think) & he lost it while hunting in the Atchafalaya Basin. When I asked him where it was he told me he lost it 2 weeks before on the hunting club & he thought he had knew where but the water was up & the trail was flooded. So when the water went down he went to look for it but to no avail. About 2 weeks later he was riding his 4-wheeler & went through a dried up canal & saw something. There it was. He stopped & dug it out of the mud. After sitting in the bottom of a canal for around a month it only had a few spots of surface rust. Also he & every other member of the hunting club had been running over it every time they went hunting. That was 3 years ago & that knife now stays in a sea can he calls a shed & still has no rust on it. I bought him a Byrd Cara Cara with G-10 handles(8cr13MOV). I noticed some surface rust on it the other day but cleaned it with some WD-40 & an old tooth brush. Came right off.

Sorry for the long post. I just believe that if you buy the right steel for your environment a little care there shouldnt be any problems. I dont use a lot lubricants because Ill use any of my knives to cook with or cut my steak.


Joey
 
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