Lock reliability, be carefull!

Thanks for the reminder, jackknife. I have recently become a little too comfortable around my knives - and if you get too comfortable around anything (knives, guns, cars, people) it'll come back to haunt you... at least that's how I've found life to be so far.

Also, this gives me reason to buy a good small fixed blade. :D

But, seriously, thanks.
 
Great post jackknife and credit to you for making us all think it could be our favourite folder whose lock failed thereby giving us pause for thought and caution. :thumbup:
 
I did not see this one asked.
What if one has a locking knife with a lock for the lock?
Lone Wolf Harsey Tactical T-1 Liner Lock with a LAWKS.
MOD CQD with a lock for the plunge lock.

I kind of view the LAWKS for the liner lock the same as I view the
firing pin safety on a Series 80 .45. As long as that LAWKS is engaged,
there is no way the liner lock is dis-engaging.

What is the opinion of locks for locks? In handling knives since the early 70s,
I have never had a lock release on me inadvertently. Not once. Even good old lock-backs.

I view secondary locks as making a folder practically fool-proof. Am I wrong?
 
imho there is no need for a lawks on a properly fitted liner lock, which is probably why no customs i know of have the thing, now on a cheapo CRKT liner lock its probably not a bad idea,

even with the lawks the lock can still fail.

i have had locks fail on me, mostly the old funky REKAT rolling lock though, i have had good luck with most everything else.
 
steelscout30 said:
I treat the locks of folding knives much like the safety of a firearm---you cannot really rely on human-designed mechanical workings, as all are subject to failure by the laws of physics and the ever-presents laws of Murphy.

The locks of knives and the safeties of firearms are always subject to failure---if they will hold up or not is a matter of chance and luck.
Click to expand...


That's an excellent analogy:thumbup:
 
I personally don't get on with slip-joint knives so well....that said here's what I follow:

Slip-joints-only good for slicing and not too hard ether

Locking folders-slicing,cutting you can do it a bit harder plus you can stab without worry.

If I want to do hard cutting or prying/digging I nab a fixed blade.
 
Thanks for the heads-up, jackknife. I appreciate reminders to use sound judgment. I'm also glad you didn't tell us the knife's brand or model; there's no room to excuse my own knives as "failproof."
 
A good reminder that just because a knife has a lock doesn't mean you should treat it like it does. :thumpup:
 
cbxer55 said:
I did not see this one asked.
What if one has a locking knife with a lock for the lock?
Lone Wolf Harsey Tactical T-1 Liner Lock with a LAWKS.
MOD CQD with a lock for the plunge lock.

I kind of view the LAWKS for the liner lock the same as I view the
firing pin safety on a Series 80 .45. As long as that LAWKS is engaged,
there is no way the liner lock is dis-engaging.

What is the opinion of locks for locks? In handling knives since the early 70s,
I have never had a lock release on me inadvertently. Not once. Even good old lock-backs.

I view secondary locks as making a folder practically fool-proof. Am I wrong?
Click to expand...

Using them the right way:) i believe that alot of people put way too much confidence in locks and use them rather recklessly
If it folds it could fail, not guaranteed to fail but could fail, depending on how the user uses or misuses it. Sure a backup lock might be a good idea but its still a folding device;)
ivan
 
this makes me want to invent a lock for a folding knife that cant fail in the conventional sense that a folding knife lock might. I mean even fixed blades can fail but ive been thinking about it for a while, how an you make a folding knife lock that can have the reliability of a fixed blade?
And when i do i gotta patent it
 
There's an Extrema Ratio folder with a bolt that can be screwed into the frame. That's the closest I've seen.
 
Great story JK. I handle alot of knives and they just feel so natural/comfortable to me that I let my guard down and that is when I get cut. Never anything serious, but we should always have a sub-conscious respect for sharp things.

I also aggree that everyone should carry a slip-joint for at least one week just to learn how to properly use a knife. I have used my Case Pen Knife (very small slip-joint) at work so hard cutting up very thick cardboard, that the handle loosened and the blade developed some play, but it never closed on me. I would rather have a slip-joint snap closed on my finger and give me a cut, than to have a lock fail and stab myself in the gut or lop off an appendage. Stay safe people, we have enough things trying to kill us out there.
 
I trust my framelocks. I would like to know who the manufacturer....I think it's pretty serious if the lock failed. A lock isn't a lock if it fails.
 
How can i use a locking folding knife, if i can´t trust the lock?

I don´t agree, that locking folders are near to slipjoints and should be used like them. Locking folders, well manufactured locking folders are remarkable stronger than slipjoints.

Other hand: I don´t know, how ppl. treat their folders. Maybe i never had an extrem accident because i am careful as with any knife. Any has a sharp edge.

Sals advice sounds the best to me.

I would like to know the maker because i would like to know if a myth has died or if it was one of the "usual supects".
 
spyken said:
A lock isn't a lock if it fails.
Click to expand...

any lock, on any knife, WILL FAIL, if you put it under enough strain. past that it's all a matter of at what point the lock fails. some designs will take huge amounts of abuse (eg the RAO mentioned erlier) while others wont. but they are still locks. it's simply a case of where their breaking point is.

hell, even a fixed blade will fail if you put it under enough strain.
 
Nice advise JK. I had an Opinel lock come undone while slicing up cardboard boxes & almost got cut Big Time! I now use my locking knives more carefully.
 
pogo said:
Nice advise JK. I had an Opinel lock come undone while slicing up cardboard boxes & almost got cut Big Time! I now use my locking knives more carefully.
Click to expand...

Geez!

Did you rotate the ring fully? My one rotates quite a bit but I can see how heavy twisting could make it turn back.

No mechanism will reduce the risk of cutting your fingers off to zero. Knives are hazardous objects (with or without the lock) and should be treated as such.

TBH, when I do heavy work with a lock knife I make sure my fingers are out of the way when doing tough bits of work. That way, failure of the lock will not lead to lobbed off hand parts but just close.

Worked for me...

For heavy work, that may result in lock failure, just use a fixed blade instead if you can't get a good grip.
 
spyken said:
I trust my framelocks. I would like to know who the manufacturer....I think it's pretty serious if the lock failed. A lock isn't a lock if it fails.
Click to expand...

Any mechanism can fail.

Go back and read the posts in this thread by Sal Glessar. You will learn something.
 
is about as safe as it can get, and even then I don't consider a folder to be anywhere near 'fool-proof'! In fact, I've always been a vocal supporter of testing one's gear before taking on faith that it'll stand up to the 'hard use' it's advertised for!

What Sal said has a lot of merit, however, Spyderco's ad copy for the Chinook has previously stated that it's strong lock makes it suitable for "passing and blocking." If a folding knife's lock is advertized as suitable for "passing and blocking", in a Martial Blade Craft realm, it darn sure better be able to withstand more than just a LIGHT spine-tap!!

As far as the OP not listing the make and model of knife that cut it's user's fingers, I'm in the group that thinks he should make that information known. Ultimately, it's up to him, however, he didn't hesitate to mention the specific knife (Buck 110) that failed and cut his co-worker's finger in a previous story he posted, so I'm not sure why he doesn't want to here.

Regards,
3G
 
Can the blade shape contribute to lock failing when stabbed? A spearpoint has the point in the middle, while wharncliffe is low. During impact on stabbing, a higher point (nearer to spine) will transfer the impact to the stop pin and less on the lock (i.e. example using liner lock). As such, stabbing with wharncliffe will have more chance (given everything else the same) of lock failure?
 
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