Lock strength

C

caryw

Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Messages
2
Does any one know which Spyderco knives are rated as "extra heavy duty'' for lock strength.
 
Typically there are two things about the Spyderco line as a whole that set it apart and above most competitive companies. One is that they are simply the sharpest knives new out of the box that money can buy. And two is their locks are researched, tested, and tested again to insure that they are made so that they perform as reliably and securely as is humanly possible.

I think it is generally considered by many in the know that the Spyderco Manix, the 83mm Manix, and the Chinook are among the strongest locks that they have ever produced. The compression lock and nested compression or ball bearing lock are also quite strong though.

I have personally had these knives apart to either repair ones out of warranty, and/or to rebuild them for forum members by modifying the handles and liners, and I can personally testify to the research and develpment that goes into these knives from Spyderco. They are most always the best of the best in this department. I'll go one further. The locks on the Delica, Calypso Jr, Endura and several other "lighter" duty locks by Spyderco are in fact made better than most of the other companies producing what they call their heavy duty locks. I know there is certainly more metal contacting metal in the Spydercos.

STR
 
STR is 100% correct! Spyderco tests what they make. Unlike so many other manu's who don't. I can think of a famous maker who says they test and don't. Cold Steel tests as well. They make infomercials about it. Spyderco just does it and then keeps doing it. You can rest comfortably knowing that Spyderco has tested the knife you carry (if it is a Spyderco).
 
STR,
I'd say that's one heck of a glowing response. I'd agree with your views 100%

Now, not to hijack this thread, but I just returned from a party (with a bunch of people I don't know). My wife picked some sliced apples off the table to give to our 3 y/o daughter, when she noticed the middle core was still on each slice. She mistakingly asked me to get a knife, and I whipped out my Manix (even though I was in a kitchen). I got some strange looks when I began to slice up this apple with my Manix. A few of the other women in the room simply nodded and laughed, saying "yup, just like my man". My wife was sighed at first, then just shook her head. I'm not sure if the apple was a strong (definative) test of the Manix's lock, but it sure was fun! :D
 
It sounds glowing doesn't it? But its really just the facts. I take apart a lot of knives in my shop. Over the years that I've been doing this repair, and rebuild thing I do as a hobby I couldn't tell you how many I've done but its a bunch from all different makes and all different makers.

Cold Steel Japanese knives like the Voyagers, the Nogales clip point Vaqueros, among others are fantastically built knives also. Before the days when I had a computer or belonged to any forums like this I rebuilt these for folks and had them dropped off at my house, and picked them up at shows. I also redid many that I never documented with the means I have at my disposal now. These CS knives are among some of the strongest beefiest lock contacts (speaking of lockbacks) that I have seen in my shop. Right up there with the Spyderco knives. Spyderco makes a great knife both out of Golden and out of Japan.

When you buy a lockback you have no way of knowing the security or strength of the lock really unless you have the advantage of being able to snap it apart and check it out with one scale off the knife. If this isn't the case you place a lot of trust that the company or maker did their job right.

If I wanted to be a real a$$hole I could show pics of some locks from companies other than those mentioned above side by side with the Spydies and Cold Steel knives but I don't want to embarrass other big companies or start a lets get down on STR hour so I'll refrain.

Primarily this post is regarding lock back style knives. But this is not the only weak or inadequate locks I see from others. Spyderco covers all the bases. You can trust their locks and you can for the most part trust Cold Steel locks too but not all. I've had some of the Trail Guide made in the USA folders that were less than adequate in my shop. These are not the best knives they have ever produced IMO.

If anyone dares to challenge my expertise here just take apart a knife you think is so strong and compare it to one of the above companies. You will see that I'm not only correct but you'll change your tune about which one you want in your pocket for a heavy stress job on the blade pretty quick as I did myself once I discovered who was doing things right and who was just getting by to move knives.

STR
 
Here's the text of a couple of posts by Sal on the subject of lock strength:

The Manix is running over 200 inch/lbs per inch of blade which would rate it Very Heavy Duty (same as MBC, but as suggested by a forumite, MBC may not be a good name for the rating considering the large number of customers that have no interest in Martial Blade Craft (MBC).
There is no governing body that sets rating. Spyderco employs our own in-house rating system in the construction of our designs. We set the desired standard when we design the model and build to that standard. We test (break) the models in development and continue to test (break) the models to ensure that our standards have not changed.

In-house Lock strength standards
Light Duty = over 25 inch/lbs of lock strength per inch of blade length
Medium Duty = over 50 inch/lbs per inch of blade length
Heavy Duty = over 100 inch/lbs per inch of blade length.
Very Heavy Duty (MBC) = over 200 inch/lbs of lock strength per inch of blade length.
We also have our standards for G-10 (ours is custom made), blade strength, and other general safety issues.

sal


We've not made a list. Most are not really interested. We do it for our own peaceof mind. It is important not to cut the hand that feeds you.

Basically, the FRN pieces will be Medium and heavy. SS pieces are ususally in the heavy duty range. The Very heavy duty will be pieces ike the Gunting, Yojimbo, Chinook, Manix, Lil Temperance, etc.

Light duty pieces will be the smaller pieces, Kiwi, Ladybug,etc.

Maybe someday?

sal


Hope this helps!

David
 
Ok one pic. I was asked in private to go ahead and post one pic to compare a typical Spyderco lock with someone elses knife. I also want to request first off, no bashing please. I could have probably come up with a better compare but for what I have here to show already stored in my computer this one was the first one I found. You can see right away that one has more lock contact, but if you look closely you see other very subtle differences that also set Spyderco above the other. This is without even mentioning the difference in blade steel which again sets Spyderco on top. But thats another story for another thread. For the record: Both of these knives work and neither have ever failed even taps to the spine but just look and you decide which makes you more comfortable? Which would you prefer to trust in a tough situation?

Spyderco Blue Rescue 8 and 3/16" or 209mm overall length
3 and 5/8 or 93mm blade

Case BlackHorn 8 and 1/8" overall length

3.5" Blade

Many of my friends knew I was very traditional in my knife preferences. I carried this BlackHorn or a Buck 501 or a Buck 500 for many years and was quite happy with them. Its from doing rebuilds that I got to see the knives on the inside. Although I had given Spyderco no more than a passing glance for years because I thought they were fugly ugly knives I've not only adapted to them, but as you can see from my signiture line I've made myself a copy of my very own in D2 steel. Guess I'm a convert as the old saying goes. I still have times when I carry traditional knives though.

STR
 
That is a great pic. STR. I can really see how the little things could make a big difference under extreme circumstances. Great job trying to stay as nuetral as possible on with this explanation.
 
Hi,

I should be getting a Chinook 3 in the mail in a couple of days. (I got my wife to buy it for me as an early Christmas present - all I had to do was buy her an I-Pod!).

I'd wanted a Chinook for awhile but of course now that it's coming I've been reading about them even more. I found one somewhat disturbing thread about the Chinook/Manix line failing spine tap/whack tests. I fully intend to take apart and test my Chinook when it arrives, but I was wondering if it might be possible to get a heavier-duty spring? (This was recommended in the post as a possible fix to the spine whack problem.)

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

SCDUB
 
scdub said:
Hi,

I should be getting a Chinook 3 in the mail in a couple of days. (I got my wife to buy it for me as an early Christmas present - all I had to do was buy her an I-Pod!).

I'd wanted a Chinook for awhile but of course now that it's coming I've been reading about them even more. I found one somewhat disturbing thread about the Chinook/Manix line failing spine tap/whack tests. I fully intend to take apart and test my Chinook when it arrives, but I was wondering if it might be possible to get a heavier-duty spring? (This was recommended in the post as a possible fix to the spine whack problem.)

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

SCDUB
Click to expand...

SCDUB,
It was most likely my post that you are speaking of, and these failures were certainly not the norm for me and my collection of Spydercos. I would suggest performing a couple of fast spine taps, while seated, WITH YOUR HAND/FINGERS COMPLETELY CLEAR OF THE BLADE'S PATH OF TRAVEL, on the tip of your shoe, while holding the knife by the back of the handle (the spine facing the tip of your shoe). Just an FYI, the contact area on my Manix and Mini-Manix was just fine, yet they still failed.

If your knife passes these, you should be good to go, but be sure to look at Joe Talmadge's lock test standards: http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/faq/lock.tests.html for further lock test guidance. As far as the stiffer spring, you would have to contact Spyderco directly. I was able to put more of a bend in my Manix's spring, and that solved the problem for me, but doing so undoubtedly voids the warranty. If you have any problems, which I highly doubt you will, your best bet is to contact Spyderco. I hope this helps.

Regards,
3G
 
STR said:
One is that they are simply the sharpest knives new out of the box that money can buy.
Click to expand...

I may be a newb but I would definitely disagree with that based on first-hand experience. The BM I received was insanely sharp. The Spydercos I've received were not as sharp.

I do feel very confident in the lock strengths on them though. =)
 
3G,

Thanks so much for the info. I was actually thinking of just increasing the bend. Will possibly try that - not too worried about warranty. I'm actually not too worried about lock failure either, but better safe...

Thanks for the tips re: spine whacking - I've actually done this quite a few times - even without speific instructions, I was able to figure out where NOT to hold the handle. I can't believe someone actually did this with their fingers in the way of the closing blade! Future Darwin award winner?

Cheers,

SCDUB
 
I recently had the great pleasure to fondle an ATR and was mightily impressed with the lock system. What a knife! A little too big for my personal tastes, but a helluva piece nonetheless.
 
in general:

- extra heavy duty frontlocks/backlocks
- framelocks
- compression locks
- fixed blades (:) )

specifically spyderco:

- manix
- atr
- karambit
- chinook
- military
 
Isn't the dodo MBC? Can't remember...

As per sharpness...I've had mixed results from Benchmade. Some are adequate, some are extremely sharp. But all my Spydercos have been ridiculously sharp. Love them both, but I think Spyderco is objectively the sharpness winner.
 
scdub said:
3G,

Thanks so much for the info. I was actually thinking of just increasing the bend. Will possibly try that - not too worried about warranty. I'm actually not too worried about lock failure either, but better safe...

Thanks for the tips re: spine whacking - I've actually done this quite a few times - even without speific instructions, I was able to figure out where NOT to hold the handle. I can't believe someone actually did this with their fingers in the way of the closing blade! Future Darwin award winner?

Cheers,

SCDUB
Click to expand...

No problem, buddy. The reason I really over-emphasized the part about keeping one's hand/fingers out of the way of the blade wasn't because I thought you would put your hand/fingers in the way of the blade. I just did not ever want anybody to read my post (who knows how many people read the forums, and how long this thread will be up), injure themself, and say that they weren't warned about the potential hazard of performing a spine-tap. It just seemed like the responsible thing to do.

Regards,
3G
 
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