Locking Design Strongest Most Reliable?

S

slippse2

Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
248
I've made a few fixed blades and am itching to make a locking folder.

I was wondering if there are any locking knife designs that are considered (almost) as solid as a fixed blade knife and (almost) as reliable?

Would it be a Lock back or liner lock or button lock or something I'm not aware of be the best.

Is there something really strong that stays locked open until you want it to close. No accidental twists or bumps that will allow the lock to disengage.

I'm hoping you guys can provide a lively discussion so I can do my research and see what I come up with in choices or perhaps even a hybrid design.

I've always liked the lock back design but I'm curious to know if there are better stronger designs

Thanks in advance.

Sam Lippse
 
There was a very long and exhaustive debate on this topic recently which resorted to name calling and silliness. However, it was more focused on the merits of certain types of locks in *tactical* knives. There was some good info for sure on the strength of various locking types. I'll see if I can dig it up later on.

--nathan
 
Dont hold it against me that I just joined, so the following is just my opinion obviously.

In my experience with folders, I generally prefer a lock back design. Only because while the actual blade is separated by a break, the lock back offers a sort of continuation of the tang.

What I mean by this is in most direction of force applications, the blade will be pressing against the lock back and causing the application of force to be against and opposite to the direction that the lock will require to release. (I hope you know what I mean)

Now this is only my opinion, and there are many knive companies that make excelent liner locks or whatever.

But, in my expierence, in order for a liner lock to work, it has to be thin enough to fit between the blade in a folded position and the liner in the handle.

Because most metals used in a knife design when made that thin have an obvious flexibility (as that is how liner locks work obviously, they have to have a certain spring in them) they are more prone to failing than lock backs, which use a thicker steel that is less flexible.

One of the reasons that I most prefer a lock back design, is like I said in most situations, the force on the blade will be forcing it against the back. Again, this is more about what you use it for, if it is designed for a stabbing motion than all that is out the window, although I would still prefer a lockback.

ALSO, THIS IS JUST MY OPINION THROUGH EXPERIENCE. I am by no means an expert or a blacksmith, so take my opinion as just that, an opinion, not as some expert response.

Hope I added to your debate.
 
I've had more lockbacks fail on me than liner/frame locks. Lockback knives will wear over time differently. I think they all have a purpose and function. Define what the knife needs to do and work on the design first, lock is secondary in my opinion.
 
silver_pilate said:
There was a very long and exhaustive debate on this topic recently which resorted to name calling and silliness. However, it was more focused on the merits of certain types of locks in *tactical* knives. There was some good info for sure on the strength of various locking types. I'll see if I can dig it up later on.

--nathan
Click to expand...

That would be great.
Thanks
Sam
 
There are a lot of variables. Who made the knife? What's it made of? How big is it? etc. etc. In my experience, the toughest, most reliable locks are Spyderco's compression lock, and Chris Reeve's framelock. The Axis lock is nice, but it has omega springs which are prone to failure. Backlocks and midlocks can be fine, and liner locks are touch & go. Much depends on the engineering of the knife, and how well it is put together.
 
We could debate it all day but frame locks work well IMO and are the easiest to make. Lock backs can be quite strong and made well too. Button lock has the potential to outperform both but usually the button position is the weak link because its some place too easily pushed in in some grips that can release the blade accidentally.

Those old lever style button locks were pretty darn stout and reliable though. I just don't know if that is something you can make without permission or licensing or what???

You know the Hubertus and Boker Tree Brand style like came on their autos. They work well.

Thats actually a fairly strong lock when done right and in many cases it would take a great deal of force to shear a good hardened stainless pin in a 1/8" or 5/32" diameter.

STR
 
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