Locking mechanism?

orthogonal1 said:
I also like the Collins bolt-action lock, the Dalton ambi-locks (he has a few - don't know if they are his designs or not), the Spyderco Ball-Bearing lock (and the caged version), the SOG arc-lock, the plunger lock as seen on so many automatic knives, the Microtech MicroBar, and others.
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I really do love my CRKT Hawk DOG
 
For me, a lock isn't about strength, it's about convenience. Most locking knives can be opened and unlocked with one hand, compared to slipjoint which almost always require two hands. A lock also has to be reliable though, that is why I am cautious about axis locks, and the like. They rely on small springs and small moving parts, more likely to break or jam than a simple linerlock.

So for me, my favorite lock is the frame lock, with some type of lockbar stabalizer, to prevent hyper extension. The liner lock is in second because the frame lock is stronger, simpler and lighter. Both are very easily operated with one hand. The only disadvantage is that when closing the blade, your fingers are in the way of the edge, which can lead to accidents if you aren't fast enough or paying attention.
 
Lockback and axis lock. From my experience, liner and frame locks are less reliable in mass production, and apparently haven't reach the same levels of strength in Spyderco's testing against their lockback. To me, the only reason the liner/frame lock is used is cost, and when you add lawks or stabilizers, it adds complication to make up for basic deficiencies. There are good examples, but I've had bad ones, so I skip them for edc.
 
hardheart said:
Lockback and axis lock. From my experience, liner and frame locks are less reliable in mass production.
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That may very well be. I ownly own 3 production framelocks. All the rest are custom:D
 
I like frame locks for their simplicity one of their advantages are easy cleaning and the ability to spot debris in the lock and easily clean it. I think the lock back is one strong reliable design but if you get debris lodged in it from your pocket (which will be harder to spot and clean with a lockback) the lock can and will fail. Triad locks are modified lockback design that is strong for hell and will compete with the strongest and best locks out there but keep the debris out.

Axis locks are very reliable, strong for hell, easy to clean and spot debris. The only weakness are the small omega springs they have two of them and will work fine with only one if the other breaks however my experience it they are not prone to breakage and faulty omega springs are the exception not the rule. The arc lock and ball bearing lock are pretty much the same as far as reliability and ease of spotting dirt and cleaning. The ball bearing lock uses one coil spring and I have never heard of them (the spring) failing.

I like the spyderco compression lock that lock is also very good and allows for spotting of dirt and easy cleaning. I works simular to a liner or framelock but it is a different type of locking mechanism (hard for me to explain you have to inspect one to know) it also should be strong for hell.

A word about liner locks and even frame locks if they are not made right they will suck big time and they seem to be the hardest to make right. Although this is true of all locks I have to say it is harder to make a liner lock or frame lock correctly than most other locks.
 
kozak6 said:
Meh. I am not convinced that a lock is necessary. Slipjoints work just fine for me.

I don't like liner locks. I don't trust them.

Lockbacks, midlocks, and some frame locks seem ok.

I'm not sure about the Axis lock. Seems like a lot of people have problems with the omega springs.

I also love balisongs.
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I also worry about Omega spring failure with my Griptillian though it has never failed.
Years ago, I worked in a lumber yard. I was cutting a plastic band on a stack of spruce 2*8 and my lockback failed. It's half serrated blade bit into my finger fiercely and I got four or five stitched. (It was a United Cutlery, and yes I know better now). I'll never forget it anyways. This is probably why I hesitate to buy a lockback or a partially serrated blade.

Now I tend to carry slipjoints. With a slipjoint, I always keep my fingers out of the way, and I haven't been cut by one in years.
 
I would say the best lock is still out there waiting to be invented. I prefer liner/frame locks generally just because they are much easier to manipulate than lockbacks. The big failing of liner locks are a)not ambi b) must put your finger in the path of the blade to close it.

I question making such a big distinction between liner and frame locks. They are basically the same thing. I have liner locks that function perfectly and frame locks that don't, including one that I paid big bucks for and really need to send back to the maker, because it doesn't lock up reliably.

I also have spent time with the William Henry button locks. It's failing is that you can pretty easily hit the button by accident and unlock it when you don't mean to. The best lock has yet to be invented....
 
wutitiz said:
I question making such a big distinction between liner and frame locks. They are basically the same thing. I have liner locks that function perfectly and frame locks that don't, including one that I paid big bucks for and really need to send back to the maker, because it doesn't lock up reliably.
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With some frame locks, squeezing the handle moves the locking bar over a bit further such that grip strength becomes a factor in the strength of the lock. There's also a lot more metal there, which some find reassuring.

Some liner locks are prone to sudden failure when squeezed or twisted.
 
Axis lock.
Frame lock.
Spyderco Compression lock.
Last place is a tie between liner locks or lockbacks.
 
Three lock designs really stand out in my mind as the ones I would choose, all other things being equal. These choices assume a level of quality and care of manufacture. The fellow who avoids lockbacks because of his bad experience with a United probably wouldn't feel that way if his knife had been from a reputable maker.

Here goes:

1. Framelock- simplicity of design, no added parts to fail, squeezing it makes it hold tighter.
2. Compression lock- all the advantages of a framelock, but without the 'butt joint'. The stop pin, frame or lock bar have to actually break for this one to fail.
3. Ball bearing lock- a knock off of the axis lock, but with a more dependable coil rather than omega spring. This is a very strong lock, but it all depends on that coil spring to keep the ball in place.

I don't have any particular reason to dislike lockbacks, but the added drag of the lockbar doesn't make for a very smooth opening. I don't know why I care about that but I do.
 
Try the Spyderco Chinook. Has the least drag of any lockback I've handled.
 
The maker and quality of the knife is what I'm most concerned about. But out of the many types of locks, the liner is one of my least favorite generally speaking. However, a liner lock from a trusted maker and I won't hold it against the knife in any way.
 
elkins45 said:
Three lock designs really stand out in my mind as the ones I would choose, all other things being equal. These choices assume a level of quality and care of manufacture. The fellow who avoids lockbacks because of his bad experience with a United probably wouldn't feel that way if his knife had been from a reputable maker.
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I stopped buying United after that. It was years ago. I do have a leatherman and a Buck lockback that seem fairly solid.
 
Oh no............ not the locks again.........

It is all material and workmanship. I'm sure we will soon see other types of locking mechanisms show up (I have designed a few of my own), but "quality" is always more important than "idea".
 
Depends on the knife for me. The liner lock on the Military is rated hard use (100lbs per inch of blade), which is more then enough for me. It's also wicked simple to use.

Backlocks are nice when you want a nice sturdy design with a bit of weight to it. Stretch 2, Assist, Salts, etc. Works fine for me.

BBL/Axis is fun to play with and glassy smooth. Both are strong as hell.

Compression lock is an upgraded liner lock. Fun, strong, convenient.

Slipjoints. Never heard of one of them failing. Something must be right. :)

I think this thread will expose preference more then fact. Preference is important, but when you're buying from a top of the line (Spyderco, Kershaw, Benchmade) manufacturer, it's highly unlikely you're going to get a bad lock. They all work fine, sure there are always "lemons" but that shouldn't deter you just because it's a liner lock and the half dozen cheap chinese clones you've had were using a crappy liner lock.
 
I subscribe to the KISS principle and since Balisongs are illegal in Oz here are my preferences

1 Framelock
2 Framelock
3 Framelock
 
Lockback for me. I've been able to open/use/close, one handed, a standard Shrade LB7 or Buck 110 type since I first owned them. My wife & son can open/use/close them without much thought as well.

I've had a couple of linerlocks that were really strong, but too stiff, and several framelocks with the same issue. I've seen just about all of the other lock types, but I still like my trusty ol' lockbacks.

I have a D. Ralph designed Bali that is about as fast & smooth a mechanism as anything I've ever used. One of the few 'sharp & pointy' luxuries I allow myself.

thx - cpr
 
I don't care what KIND it is....as long as it's strong.

So it depends on the quality, not the type for me.
 
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