Locktite on the pivot screw?

M

muddog49

Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
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I'm thinking about putting a little locktite on the pivot screws of my Sebenzas. To get the opening tension I like, the screw is a little looser than I'd like to leave it. Any reasons not to use the locktite? Thanks
 
There is no "pivot tension" to speak of with Sebenza's. The opening/closing tension is determined by the tolerances of the bronze washers, blade tang thickness, lockbar tension/detent ball, and most importantly, the blade bushing.

All of your screws should be tightened all the way down, to where there's no chance they're going to back out.

If you use Loc-Tite on your Seb, be it the red or blue variety, you're in for a world of trouble when you go to disassemble. The entire pin/screw assembly will simply spin in the titanium, and getting the Loc-Tite to break free is an ugly, ugly endeavor.

Professor.
 
Okay,

Now that I got that post in (hopefully before you applied the Loc-Tite), let's address the blade tension issue...

Have you ever disassembled the Seb? Did you buy it new, or pre-owned? What type of lube, if any, are you currently applying?

Let's start there, and see where we're at. There's a host of helpful people who can offer suggestions on this issue that will hopefully jump in too.

Professor.
 
There is no "pivot tension" to speak of with Sebenza's. The opening/closing tension is determined by the tolerances of the bronze washers, blade tang thickness, lockbar tension/detent ball, and most importantly, the blade bushing
Click to expand...

Unlike most other folders, the Sebbie's tight tolerances make it work as specified. Mine got a little easier/smoother to open after they broke in (i.e. ball/lock wore aginst the washer and polished it a bit.

no locktite!!
 
The lock bar does control a certain amount of the blade tension as also does the pivot screw.

You can adjust the amount of resistance by the pivot screw to a certain extent just make sure there is no side play.

If you must use loctite, use the blue...Removal is not bad ...just use the tip of a soldiering iron to heat the screw and soften the loctite.

The washers do break in with use and the knife will operate smoother.
 
With all due respect, bigmark408, that's not right.

The Sebenza was designed for ease of disassembly, and blue or red Loc-Tite has no place anywhere on the Seb. The pivot screw, as well as all screws on the Seb, should be tightened down to the extent that you hear a "pop" when you release them to disassemble. The screws/threaded pins are made of a relatively soft 303 stainless, which galls together purposefully to eliminate the need for Loc-Tite. The pivot is absolutely not adjustable the way a Benchmade, for instance, is.

Oiling all moving parts in the Seb is the place to start to free-up the action, at both the pivot point, and oiling the ceramic ball detent on the lockbar that contacts the blade. If this, along with a few days of opening/closing do not free up the action, then you can do one of two things:

1. Send it back to CRK for adjustment, or...

2. Get adventurous and try to adjust it yourself by taking it apart and rubbing the washers on a flat surface with a polishing compound such as Flitz to remove a tiny amount of metal from the surface, thus reducing the tolerance and creating more "micro-play," as it were.

I would think oiling and working the action would do the trick before resorting to one of the two options I mention, but then again, I am the same guy who predicted the big Menudo comeback of 2000.

Professor.
 
Professor said it all!

No loctite, there is nothing there to stop the pins from spinning if the screw is jambed or glued inside and the smooth head will not allow you to grab and hold it while you try to break the seal.

Just take the knife apart every once in a while to clean and lube it.

Follow this thread
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260685

:thumbup::thumbup:
 
I'm glad I read this, I almost asked the same question. It never occured to me about the pins spinning, good thing I didn't put any loctite :o.
 
I don't know if this has been mentioned before or anything, but rather than any locktite try regular plumbers tape. Rather that than locktite, but nothing preferably. I just use plumbers tape on my benchmade or spyderco rather than locktite. No problems thus far.
 
No loctite from the factory. If you have a problem with the way it is I would contact CRK and let them deal with it.
 
shike said:
No loctite from the factory. If you have a problem with the way it is I would contact CRK and let them deal with it.
Click to expand...

True, I only almost applied some out of habit, I do it to my other folders that I take apart.
 
iirc, crk advises owners to never use loctite on any part of a sebbie.

if you send a loctited sebbie in for anything, they will drill out the pivot or any other screws with the adhesive. could be a costly and frustrating endeavor.
 
As was said above, for loose pivots on things like Benchmades, a little bit of plumber's tape wrapped a couple of times around the pivot threads will do the same thing as Loc-Tite without any of the hassles of dealing with breaking the bond if you need to adjust the blade afterwards. Won't void warranties, either.
 
Professor said:
With all due respect, bigmark408, that's not right.

The Sebenza was designed for ease of disassembly, and blue or red Loc-Tite has no place anywhere on the Seb. The pivot screw, as well as all screws on the Seb, should be tightened down to the extent that you hear a "pop" when you release them to disassemble. The screws/threaded pins are made of a relatively soft 303 stainless, which galls together purposefully to eliminate the need for Loc-Tite. The pivot is absolutely not adjustable the way a Benchmade, for instance, is.

Oiling all moving parts in the Seb is the place to start to free-up the action, at both the pivot point, and oiling the ceramic ball detent on the lockbar that contacts the blade. If this, along with a few days of opening/closing do not free up the action, then you can do one of two things:

1. Send it back to CRK for adjustment, or...

2. Get adventurous and try to adjust it yourself by taking it apart and rubbing the washers on a flat surface with a polishing compound such as Flitz to remove a tiny amount of metal from the surface, thus reducing the tolerance and creating more "micro-play," as it were.

I would think oiling and working the action would do the trick before resorting to one of the two options I mention, but then again, I am the same guy who predicted the big Menudo comeback of 2000.

Professor.
Click to expand...

I dont use loctite on a regular basis but have used it on sebenza's before and its not a death sentence.

I own many and have modded more than a few.

I have also removed screws with thread lockers much stronger than loctite (basically sugar water) many times without so much as a scratch.

I understand how the pivot on a Reeve is made and how it works, i have also had Reeves that were just to tight and the screw needed to be loosened for my taste.

My opinions are from experiance not just from reading off a website.

Also you speak of types of lubes like its some kind of miracle oil and the fact is just about any type of oil works just fine. :)
 
MORIMOTOM said:
iirc, crk advises owners to never use loctite on any part of a sebbie.

if you send a loctited sebbie in for anything, they will drill out the pivot or any other screws with the adhesive. could be a costly and frustrating endeavor.
Click to expand...

I'm just curious why anyone would go through the trouble to drill out a pivot when some applied heat will do the trick. ;)
 
Call me weird but if you have a good knife: Sebenza, Spyderco, Benchmade etc. with a good warranty and service department and you cannot adjust it to your satisfaction by the methods recommended by the manufacturer I would try sending it in. Loctite, plumber's tape etc. should be a last resort thing, imo.
 
shike said:
Call me weird but if you have a good knife: Sebenza, Spyderco, Benchmade etc. with a good warranty and service department and you cannot adjust it to your satisfaction by the methods recommended by the manufacturer I would try sending it in. Loctite, plumber's tape etc. should be a last resort thing, imo.
Click to expand...

Good point !! but the fact is that stock just is not good enough for some people.

lets take for example the new umnum...i haven't yet heard of any real issue's but folks just cant wait to get the tool to take it apart (my self included)

Some folks want them to flip faster and smoother and the quest goes on. :)

What good what a knife be if it did not open fast enough while your watching TV or talking on the phone.

How many times a day do you folks actually open your knife for a real task.

Why do you really have to disassemble your knife for cleaning.

Spray it with some brake clean , blow it out with compressed air, squirt some kind of oil in it and its good to go.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
spite?


i dont know, i had read that somewhere about crk. :D
Click to expand...

Maybe they say that they "drill it out" and go through a two hour ordeal for 3 screws when they actually heat it up, wipe off the loctite and send it back. Cost you an arm and a leg and it cost them 15 minutes of having a worker look at it :D.
 
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