I'm not trying to continue with any tone but I don't see the reason to keep dogpiling just because you don't like a comment. Like you for example..You only posted in this thread just to post that without contributing anything to the topic at hand. Keep it moving .
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Longsword under 300$
- Thread starter Nntrance
- Start date
I'm not trying to continue with any tone but I don't see the reason to keep dogpiling just because you don't like a comment. Like you for example..You only posted in this thread just to post that without contributing anything to the topic at hand. Keep it moving .
Thanks man, I have actually looked at generation 2 and like the black prince sword. I appreciate you actually contributing. :thumbup:
If you go that route, check the temper when you first get it. My first River Witham wasn't tempered at all; when I flexed the blade a little, it stayed bent. So I emailed the guy who owns G2 and sent it back for a replacement, which arrived very quickly. This replacement was/is perfectly tempered. I've hacked up all sorts of things with it over the last few years and it's still just as solid as the day it was new. 5160 when the heat treat is right, can be impressive stuff.
The quality is above par for a mid-range sword. It's remarkably tough and durable. But don't expect the fit & finish to be as near-perfect as what you'd find on the higher ranged swords from makers like Albion.
What do you think of valiant armory? I like the look of the zombie slayer and the practical longsword.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2010
- Messages
- 6,852
Gee, how does this comment contribute?
What about this one:
Or this one:
Or this one:
Or this one:
You realize that most of us who you're complaining about actually DID contribute?
And yet you, who are all up on your high horse, have YET to respond to any of the perfectly reasonable questions we've asked? Nor have the VAST majority of your own comments had anything to do with your own topic. Turn that mirror on yourself, bud.
SOOOO...
On topic. Please answer the following questions. Without the attitude, if possible.
Have you ACTUALLY checked out the Hanwei and Cold Steel offerings that we've recommended repeatedly?
What about Kris?
What did you think? What do you like about said Black Prince sword. Is there something that you don't like (e.g., if you like it, why not just buy the sword and be done with it? Is there something more?)
Is there a particular reason you can't save up more so you can actually afford most of the decent options that are out there?
Do you need it to be sharp, or are you just looking for a toy or wallhanger or sparring sword? There are several good options you could look at if you don't need a sharp (which might also beg the question why you NEED a sharp).
The fact that you've left all of these centrally important questions unanswered should tell you something about your own attitude. You keep complaining about "dogpiling," and yet you're the instigator who's been rude to those you're asking for help. And you haven't provided us with jack beyond "I want a hand and a half sword that's 300 dollars" to work with.
I've no personal experience with them. I've read both good and bad reviews about their swords, so I really can't base anything off that either. The Zombie Slayer, well, it's certainly looks durable enough being made of one piece so the pommel and guard will never rattle loose. It's a modern fantasy design; nothing really wrong with that if that's your sort of thing. Personally I'd rather go with a machete or khukri for a long battle blade in the event of the collapse of civilization.
Hey crimson let's squash it brother I don't want there to be any tension or issues on here for anybody. Basically I want a lower cost medieval blade blade but I want it to be decent for actual cutting. I like the look of the black prince and I have heard that it is very durable. I'm not to crazy about the hanwei tinker series because I have heard they have poor initial sharpness, they are also hard to find right now. I have heard that Coldsteel also has some issues with QC in regards to the hand and a half . That leaves me with KC,Valiant and Generation 2. Because of what the poster above said about heat treat being off with Gen 2 It might have been narrowed down even further.
horseclover
Basic Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2000
- Messages
- 3,491
"Brother" and "man" are both a bit over played (along with "mate") unless it is used in the third person. An example that will not offend would be "Oh mannnnnnnn, my mate was like a brother to me"
Forget about it.
The affectations online can be quite abrasive but I guess we all do it to an extent at times. Whadda ya know about that, huh? It is not that I am some internet nanny or bulldog preaching proper English but if some of you are really typing the same way you talk with people in the real, I read there must be many fewer high school graduates that have moved on beyond pumping gas or asking if I want fries with that. This is not written to upset anyone bro, just mentioning how much it bugs me Ok mate?
Once one has looked at a guide such as the Oakeshott typology, one might realize that a XVa Black Prince) is not the best choice for cutting and indeed one of the poorer performer in that category. Really kind of simple physics at work here. Many swords are a compromise of abilities in cutting or poking but all the Black Prince versions from several makers are not as cutting friendly as one might hope. Start again when picking a swowrd. It is a bit like having the bag of golf clubs or the right set of screwdrivers. Man, Mr Natural (Zap comics for the youngin's will point out to use the right tool for the job. Ok bro? A little class and homework time might save a Mr Hand bumming you out with negative waves.
Which of the following do you think will be the most fun to cut with? Which cuts what better?
Which of the following do you think will be the most fun to cut with? Which cuts what better?
I still own those swords and have cut with all of them. There are times and circumsatnces (targets) where my Black Prince has come close to par in cutting an extreme target (not wood but soft metal). It is the wider flatter blades that will generally offer the better cutting performance in soft (not wood) targets. My favorite weed whacker is actually a pretty slim blade for stuff up to a half inch (yes, woody stuff) but the right tool for that job would be something else.
Choose carefully grasshopper (not any more patronizing than man, brother, mate, dude, etc).
Cheers
GC
Forget about it.
The affectations online can be quite abrasive but I guess we all do it to an extent at times. Whadda ya know about that, huh? It is not that I am some internet nanny or bulldog preaching proper English but if some of you are really typing the same way you talk with people in the real, I read there must be many fewer high school graduates that have moved on beyond pumping gas or asking if I want fries with that. This is not written to upset anyone bro, just mentioning how much it bugs me Ok mate?
Once one has looked at a guide such as the Oakeshott typology, one might realize that a XVa Black Prince) is not the best choice for cutting and indeed one of the poorer performer in that category. Really kind of simple physics at work here. Many swords are a compromise of abilities in cutting or poking but all the Black Prince versions from several makers are not as cutting friendly as one might hope. Start again when picking a swowrd. It is a bit like having the bag of golf clubs or the right set of screwdrivers. Man, Mr Natural (Zap comics for the youngin's will point out to use the right tool for the job. Ok bro? A little class and homework time might save a Mr Hand bumming you out with negative waves.
Which of the following do you think will be the most fun to cut with? Which cuts what better?
Which of the following do you think will be the most fun to cut with? Which cuts what better?
I still own those swords and have cut with all of them. There are times and circumsatnces (targets) where my Black Prince has come close to par in cutting an extreme target (not wood but soft metal). It is the wider flatter blades that will generally offer the better cutting performance in soft (not wood) targets. My favorite weed whacker is actually a pretty slim blade for stuff up to a half inch (yes, woody stuff) but the right tool for that job would be something else.
Choose carefully grasshopper (not any more patronizing than man, brother, mate, dude, etc).
Cheers
GC
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2012
- Messages
- 494
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-friend-wants-a-custom-sabre-help!?p=11311223
Might want to check this thread out.
Might want to check this thread out.
1066vik
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2009
- Messages
- 21,339
most swords you buy will show up with "poor initial sharpness" -- so do most machetes and for the same reasons.
This helps keep costs down due to both lower production cost and reduced insurance liability.
Additionally, depending on the end user's desired use, the type of edge can be radically diffferent.
Another option you may want to look at in your price range are the Hanwei "Practical" swords -- plainer fittings and finishes, perfect for customization, designed and tempered to survive blade on blade stage combat.
Other makers you might look for on the second hand market: Medeival Replicas (made in Oklahoma in the 80's & 90's), Chaos forge (Arizona maker), Atar (8R), Missing Link Iron Works
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2010
- Messages
- 6,852
Definitely think the Hanwei Practical series may be a good buy for you. You may have to deal with the poor initial sharpness (how competent are you at sharpening?), although IIRC, many Kris offerings come pretty sharp. I'm pretty fond of their Celtic sword. You may also be able to get one from Baltimore Knife and Sword and have them sharpen it for you. Or, you could get whatever you want irrespective of sharpness, and send it out to someone like Richard J on here for a professionally sharpening.
I still think you may want to consider increasing your budget though. Then you could open the door to Albion or Arms and Armour (very good blades) or customs. It takes a bit more saving, but you'll have a blade you can really be proud of.
I still think you may want to consider increasing your budget though. Then you could open the door to Albion or Arms and Armour (very good blades) or customs. It takes a bit more saving, but you'll have a blade you can really be proud of.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2000
- Messages
- 2,688
I have the Zombie Slayer and love it! It is sharp as I could ask for. It feels light and fast for its size. The blade has a nice satin finish. The Sheath and Baldric are both great. For the money, it got me into what I consider a nice user longsword. It is definately worth looking into IMHO.
How much more would I have to go up? What if I increase the budget another 100?
How does it handle? My main concern with the design is that long blade doesn't have a good sized pommel to balance it out.
horseclover
Basic Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2000
- Messages
- 3,491
Overall Length: 45 1/2'' Blade: 33 3/8''
Weight: 2 lb 11.5 oz
Edge: Sharp
P.O.B.: 5 1/2''
Thickness: 7.4 mm - 4.5 mm
Width: 43.9 mm
Grip Length: 10''
Don't forget that the construction and width of the full width tang offsets what you may see as missing in a sword this long.. The specs read as a quite good handler, especially with two hands. Mass distribution can be a pretty deep subject and just looking at a center of gravity may not say everything about how a sword handles. This spec listed falls well into the overall averages of 4"-6", or an even wder span consider about a third of a sword's length from the user end is where you might find a typical "balance". Then there are points of rotation as well but many will never really understand or use those principles.
Cheers
GC
Weight: 2 lb 11.5 oz
Edge: Sharp
P.O.B.: 5 1/2''
Thickness: 7.4 mm - 4.5 mm
Width: 43.9 mm
Grip Length: 10''
Don't forget that the construction and width of the full width tang offsets what you may see as missing in a sword this long.. The specs read as a quite good handler, especially with two hands. Mass distribution can be a pretty deep subject and just looking at a center of gravity may not say everything about how a sword handles. This spec listed falls well into the overall averages of 4"-6", or an even wder span consider about a third of a sword's length from the user end is where you might find a typical "balance". Then there are points of rotation as well but many will never really understand or use those principles.
Cheers
GC
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2010
- Messages
- 6,852
Well, you can get one of the Hanwei Marshall swords in damascus for around 450 (or the regular or h&1/2 for around 200-250, although you might need to do some sharpening on those--on the upside, it's a cheaper blade so you probably won't feel as bad about sharpening it). BKS hand & a half swords run from 475-600, and they can put an edge on them. Those are really tough blades. Albion and Arms and Armour you can probably expect to spend at least 800, but man, those are nice blades. Customs, I'd imagine you'll probably spend at least 700. Scott Roush on here does good work. You might ask him for a quote. I would love to have one of his blades.
So yeah, you're looking at a different price scale entirely, but then again, you'll have a real treasure that you'll be proud to own, and which will retain its aftermarket value much better than any of the cheaper pieces. FWIW, I'm not a huge fan of Cold Steel's swords. I think the balance on them is awful; they're overbuilt and handle poorly, IMO. I consider them more in the realm of crowbars with sharp edges than actual swords. I do like the Hanwei practical series, and I think that CAS Damascus Marshall sword is an excellent buy.
The sad truth is, good sharps are hard to come by, especially if you can't do your own sharpening.
Their designs are nice, but they use 1060 steel. I'd rather have the 5160 Hanwei's Tinker line is made of. The Tinker line really is very well designed for actual use as well.