Look Ma, No Pins!

Joined
Jun 27, 2006
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I decided to challenge myself to create a handle with no visible pins and this is what I came up with

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Of course, it has pins - 7 of them: Two in each bolster and three 1/8" pins hidden 1/8" deep in the Jade G11. With the mitered (dovetail) bolsters, this handle will stay put for several lifetimes.

The blade is 8" of differentially tempered 3/32 O1.
It has a flat grind with the last 1/8" being convex grind. Then I'll finish sharpening with a V-edge. Right now, the unsharpened edge is at .007

I thought it might be a bit heavy since it has so much stainless hardware, but it weighs in at 10oz, which I think is manageable. The balance point is right at the front bolsters.

There are two areas of concern with this knife:
One is the small area of G11 near the front bolster that is discolored. I'm not sure if I hit it while peening, or what I did. It is not that noticeable, but I know it's there.

The other is the blade finish. I gave it a 600 grit hand rubbed finish before a dunk in FCL and I just can't seem to get a good uniform finish. I know part of it is due to the differential temper, but other than that, I can't figure out why it is so splotchy. It was super clean before I etched it. I'm wondering if my HT may have affected it.

I decided to try something different with the HT. I gave it a dunk in P50 then quickly put it between two ice cold plates of AL until cool. My RC tester says it is between 60-65, which is what I want since I tempered it at 400, but I just wonder if the plates made it cool unevenly?

Overall I am very pleased with the way it turned out, but I need to figure out how to have a better etched finish.
 
awesome!!

It's a lot of work, isn't it?
Do you have any pix of assembly?
The weight of the knife sounds good to me. Whippy and fast is ok, but i like the gravitas of some heft with something big and sharp...


I put a pair of 1/16" hidden pins into this one, and it was a PITA. The handle material is only 1/8" thick to start, and of course I've only got regular drill bits which leave a domed hole. The total pin length was about 1/2", making them very fiddy to make and work with (lost one in the process). Not something I'll try again - there are probably some sensible techniques to make the process easier.

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It's a lot of work, isn't it?
Do you have any pix of assembly?

It sure is a lot of work but I think it's worth it.

Here is a diagram I just made up to show where the pins are. The pins in the bolsters are all peened. The dovetails keep the G11 from coming off outwardly and the hidden pins keep the G11 from coming off sideways.

HiddenPinsandDovetail.jpg


Oh, and everything is epoxied with G-Flex as a sealant.
 
Cool knives guys! I like that hidden pin idea but I am still learning to make a decent plunge even! Ha ha! Love that little Wharnie daizee!
 
It sure is a lot of work but I think it's worth it.

Here is a diagram I just made up to show where the pins are. The pins in the bolsters are all peened. The dovetails keep the G11 from coming off outwardly and the hidden pins keep the G11 from coming off sideways.

Oh, and everything is epoxied with G-Flex as a sealant.

Wow, that's awesome.
You're handle will survive long after the blade has rusted to a stub. Did you put your mark under the G11 too? :-)

-Daizee
 
Really cool knives. Hidden pins are on my short list of new things to try.

- Chris


ETA: unfortunately, my pile of unfinished knives is so big right now that it'll be a little while before i get to try anything new.
 
I've used short pieces of threaded rod for that, too, for that little bit of extra gription.
 
Ok... so..... the pinned G11 scales went on first. Then the front and rear bolsters were peened on.

Right?

That's really well done Jack.

Peter
 
Ok... so..... the pinned G11 scales went on first. Then the front and rear bolsters were peened on.
Right?

Yes, the G11 was set in place and the bolsters were then peened on, all while the epoxy was drying. Very fast and messy work.
 
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