Looking at a new spyderco-help deciding

I have a buddy with an endura. That along with a desire that started at Cheyenne Frontier Days in 1994 when I first saw a spyderco started me looking at these again.

The pm, manix are on the short list. I think the military is a little large. The endura would be on the list were it not a lock back

EDIT: i may just go with the PM2 and try to be easier on the tip. there are way too many choices in these knives.

Would anyone happen to know how to find out what knives were available in 1994? Crazy question, but I remember walking into the building with all of the vendors and falling for one of the knives. At that point I was riding for ranches and making about $900 a month doing it. there was no way I could afford a $120 knife. I sure drooled over it though. As I recall, it did not have much of a point, had a metal handle, and had serrations. ( I can not stand serrations now).

EDIT; Found the catalog. Pro Venator. I would be tempted to buy one of those now if I ever see one just for nostalgia.
 
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The Endura is the work horse flag ship of Spyderco IMO

I see why you were pulled to the Stretch, very reminiscent of the Pro Venator.
 
If you do not like back locks (?!) then look at the Military and the Manix 2 LW. Both are great knives. The Manix 2LW us currently available with a steel upgrade to CTS-XHP for close to the same price as a standard LW from Knifecenter.com.

(You can close a Spyderco back lock just like a liner lock. You press the lock with your thumb, with your index finger in the hole, rotate the blade down a bit, the turn the knife and snap it closed. Easy and no fingers in the way. Sooo, you could also look at an Endura and a Manix 2 back lock version)
 
Thelast back lock I had, that I remember is the Schrade knock off of the Buck 110. I hated that knife for lots of reasons. It was also the knife I was carrying in the days I saw my first Spyderco. Funny, I was not a "knife guy" back then, but it still sticks with me. That darn schrade would not take or hold an edge. even my grandfather, who could sharpen a hammer, could get that thing to cut. It was as though the edge would just grind away on the stone and crumble. Anyway, that is all the experience I have with back locks. I know the endura sits further forward, so maybe a reasonable choice after all. I thought I had died and gone to heaven when
I was given a Kershaw blackout with a liner lock.
BTW, I enjoy knives, but I am still not a "knife guy" and am very new to nicer knives and know very little about steels.
 
My first thought when I started reading this post was the Endura. It's a larger, tough knife with a non needle tip and excellent grip. Then I got to the part where you didn't like backlocks and dismissed the idea. Then I realized that you don't want a backlock because they are hard to open and close one handed and I went back to the Endura idea. I love back locks for many reasons but one of them is how easy, safe and intuitive they are to close one handed. I use them while kayak fishing and often have a big flopping fish in one hand while I'm closing the knife with the other hand...nothing to it. The lock is equally easy to close with either hand too. Some folks close them like DocT mentioned but that's a bit more complicated method IMO. I just press the lock and let the choil fall on my finger then close the knife. Easy as pie.

Here's a slow motion illustration that I made a couple of years ago when someone was talking about how complicated it was to close a back lock one handed. ;)
 
Surfingringo said:
My first thought when I started reading this post was the Endura. It's a larger, tough knife with a non needle tip and excellent grip. Then I got to the part where you didn't like backlocks and dismissed the idea. Then I realized that you don't want a backlock because they are hard to open and close one handed and I went back to the Endura idea. I love back locks for many reasons but one of them is how easy, safe and intuitive they are to close one handed. I use them while kayak fishing and often have a big flopping fish in one hand while I'm closing the knife with the other hand...nothing to it. The lock is equally easy to close with either hand too. Some folks close them like DocT mentioned but that's a bit more complicated method IMO. I just press the lock and let the choil fall on my finger then close the knife. Easy as pie.

Here's a slow motion illustration that I made a couple of years ago when someone was talking about how complicated it was to close a back lock one handed. ;)
Click to expand...

I've used both this method and the one DocT mentioned. I feel a little more comfortable with the latter because I don't love the idea of flinging the blade towards my finger (even if there is a choil). I'm sure it's OK if you only use back locks that have a choil, but it would really stink to have that muscle memory and accidentally close a choil-less knife that way! Ouch!
 
Ok, I am about to put in an order, but can't quite decide on steels. I have been reading a lot, but only making myself more confused.

I use my knife every day. Hastings sometimes deep in the round bale, bags of feed, rope, boxed, plastic packages, processing game and home raised rabbits and chickens, cutting vegetables in the garden, zip ties, rubber hoses for tractor or car repair, and a 1001 other uses.

My sharpening is not great, but I get shaving sharp on an antique Arkansas bench stone and a leather strop made from an off billet. I have a lanky system, and it just a frustrated me, so it is in a box. At some point, I would like to have a better system.

Given my use and sharpening, what steel do I need?
 
I'd say to get the s30v one. It's not as sexy as some of the others, but it's very functional and you shouldn't have to worry about rust. If you're willing to spend a bit more and wanted to scratch the high end steel itch, I'd tell you to go for the m390 one.

My sharpening style is very similar, but with the addition of a water stone. I've sharpened m390, cpm m4, d2, and s30v on it, no problem.
 
Thanks. I have water stones for my various planes and chisels, but never used them on a knife. Mostly that is to help keep them flat. My bench stone tends to dish when I sharpen my knives.
 
S30v ought to work fine for you. You will be frustrated trying to sharpen something like s110v on your current setup. Even s30v can be a challenge. A diamond benchstone is a good investment and can handle any knife steel made. Lansky makes a good double sided one that you can get for less than $30. I use the green/blue one...in think it's 280/600 grit.
 
So far, Elmax has been the most difficult to sharpen this way. I will check into the diamond bench stones. Thanks.
 
First, congratulations on the Southard. It remains my favorite knife of all time, but it took me a bit to figure it out. (It's a push-button flipper & I was used to "light switching" ZT's.)

I couldn't find it explicitly stated, but it looks like you're pulling the trigger on a PM2. If so, my recommendation is that you get the color combo that appeals most to you. All the steels are good. I think any strengths or weaknesses between PM2 steels would cancel each other out on my own personal real world practice. (For instance, S110V seems to hold a working edge forever, but is difficult to sharpen.)
 
I am really having a tough time deciding between the pm2 and manix, but I think the pm2.

The southard arrived this am. Nice knife. Super smooth. It does not flip out as well as my zt0562, but it is much smoother. Some of this may be me and a learning curve. I have to admit, the handle feels crowded, for lack of a better term. I hope I get used to it, as I really like the look and feel otherwise.

This knife is the sharpest I ever owned. The previous owner put a mirror edge on it, which slices newsprint amazing gly well.

I am hooked.
 
R redman2006 Ha! See my post above! Same thing I thought about my Southard!!! Figure it out and I'll bet you realize it flipps just as well, only different. Rest the pad (not the tip) of your index finger on the very apex of the flipper tab, and push straight down towards the pivot (don't pull back towards your palm).

I'll try to post some pictures of what I'm talking about later (of all things, I'm searching for a lost knife right now!). Like I said, I was a bit frustrated until I figured it out. Now I love it!
 
Well, I discovered something already, that pretty shiny mirror edge on it does not perform as well as the coarser, toothier edge I usually have with me during the day. It cuts paper like a laser, but not so much hay strings, cabbage, or rope.
 
redman2006 said:
Well, I discovered something already, that pretty shiny mirror edge on it does not perform as well as the coarser, toothier edge I usually have with me during the day. It cuts paper like a laser, but not so much hay strings, cabbage, or rope.
Click to expand...

Correct. Polish for show...coarse for go. If you are looking at getting diamond stones I find 600 is a good finish for an aggressive edge and 1200 will get you to a higher level of sharp but still has enough tooth for everyday tasks. Anything over that starts to get too polished to work well on fibrous materials.
 
Both the PM2 and the M2 are great knives. I prefer the Manix for only two reasons: One is that it fits my hand better than the PM2. Two is that the lock has more bias to close (it resists opening in your pocket).

I like the Paramilitary over the M2 for one reason: I like the blade shape better.
 
Manic and PM2 were on my short list some years ago for my first Spyderco
I ended picking up a PM2
I have NO regrets
I had a black+black version and I now have a s110v
The s30v is great as is the s110v
You won't go wrong

The main benefits for me is the ergonomics which are excellent on the PM2
I préfère is over my 0562
The 062 is a nicer knife with better materials but PM2 is lighter, slice better and more confortable when you change grip or position
 
If you want something traditional I would suggest the Gayle Bradley 2. Its the best bang for your buck. The CF laminate is great stuff and the blade is M4 which is great steel, you just have to make sure you keep it dry.
M4 is not stainless but it holds its edge for a long time. I love the GB 2. It also doesn't look like a traditional Spyderco.
 
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