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Looking for a good field sharpener
- Thread starter intheshaw
- Start date
I bought a DMT Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening System and the stones are hitting the clamp and skipping over the blade at the higher settings (lowest inclusive bevel). It's being a real p*sser! :grumpy:
Anyone with one have any tips as the instructions are almost impossible for me to understand.
It looks like your issue at the lowest setting could be because your blade is too narrow. If it is 1" or so wide, you shouldn't hit, even at the lowest setting. If you are hitting the thumbscrew, try adjusting the brass screw slightly, so you can screw the thumbscrew farther down into the clamp.
If the blades are really narrow, like a Swiss Army Knife, then you won't be able to use the bottom steps. On something like that though, it isn't really going to matter, as the blade is so thin you won't really need a huge back bevel.
ETA: It looks like a Buck 110 will give the issues you describe at the lowest setting. It is a 13/16" wide blade. Moving up to the next lowest setting would give you @ 20* per side, and no hitting the clamp. On something narrower yet, like the SAK blade mentioned earlier, you are getting into some territory that is more difficult for the system at its lowest angles. The upshot is that the stones are excellent for freehand as well, if you have a knife that doesn't work well in the system.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2005
- Messages
- 10,038
Thanks Any Cal. I did a Kershaw Leek and a Spyderco Centofante 3. Both narrow blades. Where I'm hitting is where the magnetic clamp first touches the holding clamp - right in from of the brass screw. I can get about a 1/4 inch of contact and then the sharpening rod assembly hits the clamp (only in front of the screw). I guess because that the only spot it could possibly hit.
I'd hate to put fat micro-bevels on these narrower blades that come with acute grinds from the factory. I'll keep messing with it and see what happens. Thanks for the info - I'll try adjust the front screw or just atke baby strokes when I get to the clamp. :thumbup:
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 1,593
I use a dmt C/F diafold when I'm out. you'll be able to sharpen all you want.
the advantage is that it folds open, giving you a handle, which helps in maintaining a steady angle while going over your edges. The disadvantage is that it's more bulky than simple small stones and some parts are plastic and riveted.
I'll be going on a trip to Sweden next week, and will be taking my spyderco doublestuff with me. double sided C/F stone. Less bulky and less change of it breaking (compared to dmt). It fits perfeclty in my maxpedition pouch that is fixed to my f1 kydex sheath that Martin Swinkels made for me.
I just touched up my fallkniven f1 with it and it's easy to use and the hair was popping of my arm.
the advantage is that it folds open, giving you a handle, which helps in maintaining a steady angle while going over your edges. The disadvantage is that it's more bulky than simple small stones and some parts are plastic and riveted.
I'll be going on a trip to Sweden next week, and will be taking my spyderco doublestuff with me. double sided C/F stone. Less bulky and less change of it breaking (compared to dmt). It fits perfeclty in my maxpedition pouch that is fixed to my f1 kydex sheath that Martin Swinkels made for me.
I just touched up my fallkniven f1 with it and it's easy to use and the hair was popping of my arm.
+1 more for the Diafold Coarse/Fine. You can get a hair shaving edge off the coarse side, the fine just makes it better. I'd avoid the Sharpmaker for field use like you have (war zone). The stones are really brittle and you need a flat table top or something. I use mine at home as a honing tool for final finishing right before stropping. You can freehand with the triangular stones, but the brittleness rules them out for field use.