Looking for a good sub-$50 whittling folder

[Blues]

Oohh That's what I want. Is that a "Case Congress in CV with Yellow handles"?

The pattern number of the one that I own is 34052. I believe the smaller is 34025 but I'll check that.

You may want to check for Case 052 and Case 052 online to see what's available currently. Some dealers may have old stock laying around if it's not in current production.

(BTW, I have the Brusletto Balder as well and it's a great knife. I often do whittling with my laminated Frost and carbon Ericksson Mora's.)

 

[Noshtero]

Well.. I went with the Boker Grand Canyon Whittler. I decided I only needed one large main blade, and I like the setup on the whittler.

Thanks for the help all. I hope I chose wisely.

 

[annr]

let us know how it works out.

 

[Noshtero]

I figure if all else fails I can call this boker part of my collection and try for another whittling user

 

[sixgunner455]

I have a Boker Whittler I've carved with a lot, but I find myself preferring a bit larger handle nowadays, and use a 3 7/8" jackknife as a result, more than the Boker. SAK Tinker gets used a lot, because I carry it a lot. Also have a Camillus Scout Whittler, but I haven't profiled those blades yet, so I haven't used it much.

 

[jacknife]

I'm not a whittler......yet! But I recently bought this Boker whittler and it's one of the nicest slipjoints I have.

 

[mrjed]

Amen on the Flexcuts!

Take a look for the Oar Carver by Queen. (Not necessarily for carving oars, but designed by Mr. Oar) Two Wharncliffe blades of D2 and jigged bone handles.

 

[annr]

Amen on the Flexcuts!

Take a look for the Oar Carver by Queen. (Not necessarily for carving oars, but designed by Mr. Oar) Two Wharncliffe blades of D2 and jigged bone handles.

I took a look at the Oar Carvers by Queen and they look very handsome and functional! May have to try one. I have never used D2. Could you please describe your experience with D2 ---------- compared to high carbon used in the Flexcut and other whittlers?

I take it you prefer the one with 2 blades?

 

[annr]

Just found this in the BF archive:


BernM
02-04-2004, 09:23 AM
Maury -

Paracelsus has given you some good advice above. The trick is to find the handle shape that best fits your hand for extended periods and in a variety of grips, and that has has a good carbon steel blade. I have several Flexcut palm gouges, and like the steel and shank flexability alot, but I don't find their knife handles suit me.

My favourite is the Rick Butz carving knife, which you can see on the www.woodcraft.com site, under 'carving', then 'knives' (sorry, don't appear to be able to post the link). That, and a strop will get you started. For a detail knife I use a custom Pinewood Forge detail blade of O1 tool steel (www.pinewoodforge.com) for $19. I have several others, but these are my favourites. I have one of the "Oar Carver" folding carving knives, actually made by Queen of D2 tool steel, if you want to talk folders. The blades took me days to sharpen down to 'wood carving quality' and they now cut common carving woods like butter, but I wouldn't want to use it for long periods due to comfort.

I would also suggest a good carving book to get you started. Best that covers all the different types of carving and tool care is also by Rick Butz, and is also available through Woodcraft, under 'carving', then 'carving books'.

Welcome to a new hobby, just as addictive as collecting knives, but at least these ones cost a little less.

Bern

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-291068.html

Seems to cover alot.

 

[Will Power]

How about a CASE Seahorse Whittler? An unusual pattern with the advantage of a Wharncliffe blade?

I've heard that some people deploy an Opinel for this kind of thing too:thumbup:

 

[Stainz]

My pocket whittler of choice, until I all but ruined it trying to sharpen it, was a Buck 301. And this is from a guy with tons of 'real' carving tools. I can sharpen them fine - but a double bevel knife was torture - until this summer, when I bought a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker... now my knives are becoming razor-sharp again. I like that 301 Stockman.

Stainz

 

[mrjed]

I would agree with the archive quote on the Oar Carver. It's hard to get to sharpness similar to a Flexcut.

"Long periods" can also be an issue. However, I like to do spoons from green wood, and that's a lot quicker and easier than working on dry wood.

I have the double blade with a detail second blade (both Wharnies, yeah!).

Best thing about this knife is it's more portable than Flexcuts. If I have to wait outside on something or somebody, I can just find a green spoon size stick and entertain myself.

I frequently have made a point of cutting or finding such a stick and putting it in my satchel before I leave the house. I also usually carry a folding pruning saw in the truck or the satchel. Be prepared to enjoy yourself!

jed

 

[JohnnyR]

This Summer I whittled 2 ball in cage projects. This was my first attempt at whittling. I don't have pics handy, but I was happy with the way they turned out. I had ordered 2 Bokers, a 280 whittler and a 7474 lg. stockman. Both knives had poor f&f, so I returned them to Boker for replacements and started my first ball in cage with my 30 yr. old lg. Old Timer stockman. The knife was sharp and the spey blade sliced away wood nicely until I pushed straight at the wood with the tip. This forced the blade closed on my finger and I rec'd 4 stitches. This of course was my own stupid error and have only myself to blame.

After a couple of days, I decided to continue the project with a locking knife. I sharpened and stropped my Byrd Robin g-10 and while not expecting much, thought I'd give it a go to see how it would perform. The Robin performed very well and could slice micro sections of the wood away, which worked well in shaping the ball. I thought the blade might be too wide, but the tip fit nicely into the cage. I completed the remaining 3/4's of the ball and cage with the Robin. I was able to strop the blade sharp very easily. I began the 2nd project with the Robin. This time I was using a larger block of basswood, the first one I'd used building grade pine. The basswood seemed a little tougher across the grain, but all in all the Robin was an excellent cutter.

One problem with the Robin was the length/shape of the handle. The back of the handle rubbed into my palm after many hours, leaving a sore, red spot. I have sinced purchased a Meadowlark hoping this would solve this issue, but have not had a chance to use it. I have since rec'd the replacement Bokers. The 7474 was okay, but I had the same problem with the 280 whittler. When the coping blade closed it would hit the adjacent brass liner, slicing and gouging it. So, I sent it back and by request they sent another 7474 stockman. Haven't had an opportunity to use these to whittle either.