Looking for a little help - Share your "high-polish" progression

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

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Dec 5, 2013
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I currently put 416 stainless bolsters on most of my knives. My standard finishing progression is to hand finish through 2000grit and then go to the buffer with green compound on a sewn muslin wheel. I then finish off the bolsters and scales with white compound on a sewn muslin wheel. FYI, the buffer is a 3/4hp Baldor running 8" wheels at 3600rpm. The finish is decent enough but, I feel it could be better. I would like to further reduce the fine scratches. To me, it seems the green compound is not fully washing out the 2000 grit lines (example below is in full sunlight). I am in the market for a second buffer that will run at 1800rpm so I will have some flexibility, especially on handle materials that burn easier. I would like to hear what the experienced polishers are doing to get that super smooth finish.

Bob

20141216_154008-2 by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
I think some folks expect a little too much from their buffers, as regards mirror polish.
I'm not saying it won't, but I am saying to not expect your buffing process to remove scratches.
They should already be gone.
Use the buffer only to polish - not do stock removal.
I've said it a hundred times, and I'll say it again, "A really good mirror polish is not the result of a lot of buffing and polishing. A really good mirror polish is the result of a lot of really good sanding."
If you are still seeing sanding marks after buffing, then there was some more sanding to do.
So, if you buff a little and see scratches, don't keep buffing, but go back to 1200 or 1500 and maybe take it to 3000.
That's what I would do and what I have found successful.
 
I believe Karl has said it all if there are scratch lines. If you are seeing small spiral type scratches they can be the result of a "dirty" buff. By this I mean one where the polish is collected and forms a bit of a crust. A rake job will help but still the results are not much better means you may have to put that one aside. No scratch pink on a new buff will look after this . Frank
 
I am very diligent about my sanding so I don't think that is the issue unless, a 2000 grit finish is still too coarse to go to the green compound. It certainly could be a contaminated wheel. Mine has quite a crust on it and is likely contaminated from all the airborne debris in the shop. Maybe time to rake that baby out! Thanks guys.

Bob
 
If you have the Loveless video, he doesn't even go that high- he really leaned on that green chrome, it worked hard for him. IIRC
he was at about a 600 when he went to the buffer. Never seen his finishes in person, but I'm guessing it worked.
In my limited experience, it also depends on the steel- each one seems to want me to do something different to get it right.
 
Ranger Bob, have you ever considered using nickel silver for your bolsters? They taka shine like chrome and has a slight patina that looks very cool in my opinion.
 
Looks like your buffing wheel is contaminated. Rake it then blow it out with compressed air.

You can always use 3m polish papers and then go to a hand rubbed flitz finish
 
Try some pink no scratch after the green instead of the white to give a good luster. But if you do not have all the scratches from lower grit, then you still have that to remove. Some will go clear to a 4000 grit finish before buffing.
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Ranger Bob, have you ever considered using nickel silver for your bolsters? They taka shine like chrome and has a slight patina that looks very cool in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Larry, My first few knives used nickel silver but, I really wasn't a fan of it. I know it's very traditional but I don't like the maintenance. The stainless is easy enough to work and can take a brilliant, long lasting shine.

After the contamination was mentioned I went back and looked at a couple earlier knives and they are much cleaner. The scratches are almost certainly being produced by the wheel. I will clean it up today and see what happens. I need to move my buffer as well. It is too close to where I use the air chuck to blow everything out after grinding/sanding.

Bob
 
By the way Bob, I have found that for me 416 stainless seems to "work" best of all the stainless steels. You may like to try titanium, as well. I am completing an order for a three blade liner lock. The bolsters are Timascus and the three back bars are titanium. Sure the Timascus is for looks too but with the titanium for the back bars and liners of course, some weight removal was achieved. Frank
 
Spraying WD 40 on your work (or buff) allows polishing compounds to cut better and smoother.
 
WD 40 on work or buff? Interesting - I'll have to try that. Is there any problem with the WD40 attracting grit to the buff wheel?

Ken H>
 
No more so than not using it.
It can make buffing messy if you use too much.
 
Frank Niro said:
By the way Bob, I have found that for me 416 stainless seems to "work" best of all the stainless steels. You may like to try titanium, as well. I am completing an order for a three blade liner lock. The bolsters are Timascus and the three back bars are titanium. Sure the Timascus is for looks too but with the titanium for the back bars and liners of course, some weight removal was achieved. Frank
Click to expand...

Not to hijack the thread, but you'd better post a pic of that 3 blade liner lock when you are done Mr. Niro:D

Darcy:)
 
Ranger Bob, I would like to make another comment and suggestion. You should not have to sand to 2000 grit to get a mirror polish in my not so humble opinion. I suspect that your compound may not be the most suitable to polishing your 416 stainless. I used to use a green compound that was labeled 50% green compound and it worked well ( I also used another brand of green compound) but another knife maker told me to try K&G's green chrome compound. It is a little more expensive but now I buy it 2 lbs at a time because it polishes so well, at least in my experience. By the way I also sand to 2000 grit before polishing my blades and I have to buff my nickel silver knives often...they are more work. You make really nice knives and they look great but you may want to try the K&G compound. Larry
 
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