Looking for a maker to make me a custom Kubaton

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Jan 2, 2007
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I have a project in mind and i believe the best device to produce the best results would be a CNC lathe. The project entails a something like a modified kubaton. I am only looking to have one produced of the design. If anyone could help me or point me to a maker that has access to something that i would appreciate it. Best way to reach me is PM or Email. Thanks ahead.
 
Dan Graves and Karl Anderson are two makers I know who are masters of the lathe.
 
No need for CNC if you are just going to make one, or do you mean only one design but many made of that design?
 
Hehehe any machinist could get QUITE precise, no offense but hard for any of us regular humans(machinists are a different breed) to notice a spare .001 here or there, but they can spot it a mile away.
 
Hehehe any machinist could get QUITE precise, no offense but hard for any of us regular humans(machinists are a different breed) to notice a spare .001 here or there, but they can spot it a mile away.

Please excuse my ignorance. I am not here to underestimate anyones talents. I know that all of the makers here are very gifted. I am looking to requisition a maker. All input is appreciated.
 
I found the MS Paint file, that would be no problem to turn and not very expensive either. Give me call at home today or tomarrow.
 
Bringing some life back to this one. I had member B. Finnigan put this one together for me. It started as a peice of 13inch 6ALV4 Ti that ended up being this (little over 8" 3/4"diameter) spike. The tip is W1 and blued. Here are some progress pictures that Brent continually updated me on. The first is my terrible:o paint drawing of what i was looking to have done. The second on is a more exact drawing of the exact kubaton i was looking for. The 3rd and 4th are progress pictures of the lathe work and the 5th is the final product. I will try my hand a taking some better pictures that will better show it off later this week.
 

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Just for accuracy sake, it's spelled KUBOTAN and erroneously spelled "Kubaton" probably due to the similarity with the word "baton".
It derives its name from it designer, Takayuki Kubota, taking inspiration from the yawara stick, that in turn was derived from the sheated knive fighting techniques used with the tanto.
The point in a kubotan is in not having a point (sorry for the pun), so that it is legal to carry. Having a point like that could make it illegal to carry... :confused:
 
Just for accuracy sake, it's spelled KUBOTAN and erroneously spelled "Kubaton" probably due to the similarity with the word "baton".
It derives its name from it designer, Takayuki Kubota, taking inspiration from the yawara stick, that in turn was derived from the sheated knive fighting techniques used with the tanto.
The point in a kubotan is in not having a point (sorry for the pun), so that it is legal to carry. Having a point like that could make it illegal to carry... :confused:

Thanks for the correction and the background information, I wanted it to be a modified version of one. Thats why I didn't go out and purchase one. Besides, I am just displaying Mr. Finnigan's abilities, not placing it on display to have its purpose critiqued.
 
No critique (in the negative sense) intended. It's a really good piece and I like it a lot, especially the blued steel tip.
Pretty deadly piece of handywork, in my humble opinion.
Just pointed out that it can be illegal to carry in some jurisdictions.
How was the tip joined to the main body?
 
A 3/16" hole was bored into the Ti and a 3/16 pin was turned on the W1 drill rod. It was swaged in very tightly and then the tip turned/contoured to match the taper of the the kuboton. The heat treat was done in place.

After the HT the Kuboton was placed back in the lathe to further blend the Ti and W1 together. I used an EDM stone to turn a very sharp point on the the tip.
 
Interesting piece. Nice lines (or curves actually). That part would be challenging to turn on a manual lathe. It is not an issue with precision so much as part shape. Generally speaking, manual machines work best with straight line motion, I'd use a CNC for that shape. The lathe in the picture appears to be a manual lathe, so my hat is off to you.

Alarion! Hello! You haven't been posting in a while. I noticed, and I'm glad to see you back again.
 
I had to make a special chisel out of CPM Rex 76 to cut the finger grooves. It held up to the heat real well. I will have to use it more on Ti if I don't have the right carbide chisel. I originally tried to use a 1" dome file but it would have taken forever.:eek:
 
I had to make a special chisel out of CPM Rex 76 to cut the finger grooves. It held up to the heat real well. I will have to use it more on Ti if I don't have the right carbide chisel. I originally tried to use a 1" dome file but it would have taken forever.:eek:

I figured you used a radius cutting attachment. You used a chisel!? I can't say I've ever done that. Neat skill.
 
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