Looking for a new 3-5 blade stockman

Thanks very kindly. Was introduced to this pattern long ago when I was 9-10 by my favorite uncle during my first hunting season.. He passed on his 1940-64 green bone to me at that time and purchased himself a new one so we could both have the same knife. Once I saw what this pattern could do, I quickly became a fan.. A very versatile slipjoint, this!


Anthony

thats the knife. I was waiting for you to chime in Anthony. Pepe, thats the one.
 
I can't speak from personal experience, but the Schatt and Morgan railsplitter stockman sounds like it would be a good choice. I've heard nothing but good things about them, and the beefier frame seems like it would prove to be more comfortable during extended use.
 
For a 5-blade stockman, some of Case's Tony Bose design '39 pattern sowbellies can be found on the secondary market (that 'auction site'). Here's one of mine, a Case "TESTED XX" TB6539SS in 'Midnight Bone':

It has large clip (on it's own backspring), small clip, pen, spey and sheepsfoot blades. When I bought this one, I attempted to extract it from the display tin, and the small clip SNAPPED shut and very neatly clipped about a 1/4" diameter section of skin from the tips of each of my index and middle fingers of my right (dominant) hand. Bled a LOT :eek:. Guess that means I really own it now...
 
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thats the knife. I was waiting for you to chime in Anthony. Pepe, thats the one.

Some of y'all have already seen this one a time or two but just for nistalga and for the ones who haven't, this is the one that was passed on to me by my uncle Lew originally which I still edc and use at least a few times a month..

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~ ~ ~ ><> ~ ~ ~

Here is a (5) blade Sowbelly produced by Queen for Moore Maker in a jigged lemon bone that I used to edc but it was just a bit to heavy for my liking. But if you don't mind the weight then you may like this one too and the upside is the 1095 hi-carbon steel is heat treated, quenched and ground right.. :thumbup:

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Anthony
 
pepemrtnz,

My personal favorite is the vintage Case 64047P. Its long since been discontinued since around 1978 if memory serves, but can still be had now and then on the secondary market in near mint or excellent condition in red or brown jigged bone from typically 75. to around 150. from the 1970's era.. Of coarse the older they are, the more expensive they are.. They are fine quality knives with (4) hi-carbon steel blade/tools supported by (2) well functioning back-springs which is perfect for ease of pocket carry because of the thin profile. The liners, bolster and shield are all nickel silver, so she's kinda purdy too. :cool:.. Here is my best example to date..

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Best,
Anthony


Thats gonna be a hard one to top brother Anthony. That may just be the Holy Grail of Red Bones....
In keeping with the theme, I'll add a couple other versions for ya.
The top pic is a 6375 which is the biggest Stockman Case makes at just a hair under 4 1/4 inches. The bottom pic is the 6347 which would be the medium Stockman at around 3 7/8 inches

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Thats gonna be a hard one to top brother Anthony. That may just be the Holy Grail of Red Bones....
In keeping with the theme, I'll add a couple other versions for ya.
The top pic is a 6375 which is the biggest Stockman Case makes at just a hair under 4 1/4 inches. The bottom pic is the 6347 which would be the medium Stockman at around 3 7/8 inches

019.jpg


022.jpg

Thanx my friend. These you have here are drop dead stunning!. One has just got to love these vintage hard use Case slipy knives in that wonderful old red bone! Absolutely beautiful examples here, Mike. :cool:

Anthony
 
If you can find one, the early Case XX era knives are terrific. They made a whittler that IIRC was a 6308. It is the bigger of the two whittlers. For a bigger stockman, Case made the 6392 and the 6375, which are similar in size to the Schrade 8OT and 881.
The workmanship on the early Case knives will rival some of the customs being made today... PLUS, they had some incredible looking red bone scales


OK, now this Im into. I just put in some offers on some of these models on ebay but was wondering what does it mean when the seller says how many dots the knife was made with? Ive seen ten dots, 7 dots, 3 dots, etc... and dont know what the heck their talking about. Ive mostly been placing offers on these three models from the 1960's/1970's on knives that look borderline new.
 
OK, now this Im into. I just put in some offers on some of these models on ebay but was wondering what does it mean when the seller says how many dots the knife was made with? Ive seen ten dots, 7 dots, 3 dots, etc... and dont know what the heck their talking about. Ive mostly been placing offers on these three models from the 1960's/1970's on knives that look borderline new.

May I make a recommendation (though it may not be popular with you at the moment)?

Hold off making bids on vintage knives on the auction sites until you educate yourself some about the knives, the patterns, what the dots mean and the value of the knives you are looking at. Right now you are like a babe in the woods. (And I don't mean that condescendingly, there's a lot to learn and it's a process. Sometimes a long one.)

Best case scenario is that you'll end up with an authentic knife in good condition (as described). There are lots of worst case scenarios for the uninformed.

It pays to do your homework and not be in a big rush. YMMV and it's just my advice. Feel free to discount it but please understand the consequences.
 
OK, now this Im into. I just put in some offers on some of these models on ebay but was wondering what does it mean when the seller says how many dots the knife was made with? Ive seen ten dots, 7 dots, 3 dots, etc... and dont know what the heck their talking about. Ive mostly been placing offers on these three models from the 1960's/1970's on knives that look borderline new.

The dots are a reference to the year of manufacture. Case has a system of tang marks using dots, X's and other means to establish when the knife was made. Starting in 1970, they would put 10 dots on the tang stamp, then remove one dot each year (1971 had 9 dots, 1979 had one dot). In later decades, they've varied the dot system a bit, to use dots, X's or a combination of the two. Also, the typefonts used on the tang stamps have been changed each decade, so in order to accurately date a knife, one must take into account the font AND other indicators like the dots, etc. Take a look at this site for Case date marks:

http://www.wrcase.com/case_college/tang_logo_stamp/
 
OK, now this Im into. I just put in some offers on some of these models on ebay but was wondering what does it mean when the seller says how many dots the knife was made with? Ive seen ten dots, 7 dots, 3 dots, etc... and dont know what the heck their talking about. Ive mostly been placing offers on these three models from the 1960's/1970's on knives that look borderline new.

May I make a recommendation (though it may not be popular with you at the moment)?

Hold off making bids on vintage knives on the auction sites until you educate yourself some about the knives, the patterns, what the dots mean and the value of the knives you are looking at. Right now you are like a babe in the woods. (And I don't mean that condescendingly, there's a lot to learn and it's a process. Sometimes a long one.)

Best case scenario is that you'll end up with an authentic knife in good condition (as described). There are lots of worst case scenarios for the uninformed.

It pays to do your homework and not be in a big rush. YMMV and it's just my advice. Feel free to discount it but please understand the consequences.

Thats great and very wise advice from Elliott. It will take a long time to learn the variations of variations :D. Case knives have had many different tang markings over the years. The 60's era knives you mentioned bidding on will not have a dot system, and there are two variations just for the 60's era knives. Then we also have the Tested era....
The newer stuff I would have to look up because I don't follow the new stuff.

Some of the like new knives that get listed on the auction site, look like new because they have been polished up to look that way. Its very easy though for someone thats not very good with a buffer, to take what would have been a knife that just showed its age, (which is a good thing around here :D) but was still in great condition, and lower the value and desirability of that knife.

It will still make a great user though, if you don't pay a premium price for it.
The amount of knowledge that folks have here to tap into is big. Don't be afraid to ask questions, folks will be more than happy to answer them for you.

I think we all shared your enthusiasm when we first got started, and still do.
But as Elliott mentioned, there is a lot to learn , and it will require a lot of your time and effort. Its an investment though, because the more you know, the less apt you are to get a bad deal on a knife. Plus, the learning part is really fun . And the learning never stops.
 
You guys rock. What do you think of these? Ive decided on the 6347 already, just debating which one to pick up. Only looking at ebay knives from people who sell a lot of Case and seem to know what theyre talking about...

pepemrtnz,

I believe you are in violation of the rules here with the listing of current auctions. I would suggest deleting them at this time.

I'll give you an opinion if you like via email through the BF.com system.


Anthony
 
Thanks, Anthony, for stepping up and lending a helping hand. :thumbup:
 
pepe, I read part of your deleted post in Anthonys post.

The 6347 is a good pattern, I much prefer it to the smaller 18 series, but that is just personal preference.

Regarding the sellers that seem to know what they are talking about, the previous advice from myself and I'm sure Elliott, still stands...
It is your money and your decision, but we are just trying to help you out.
There are sellers that know their knives, but there are also sellers that THINK they know the knives, and are not above selling something, and claiming they didn't know the difference.

Don't get impatient either. Just because a knife is going up in price, and seems to be getting a lot of action, don't get caught up in it until you know what you are bidding on. Its a good way to pay way to much for a knife.

Just know that all of us here have been there, and we understand, and want to help others from making bad decisions, we may made in the past.

I will be quiet about this subject now. Have fun in your search
 
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