Looking for a pivot that is 0.235" diameter

Andy the Aussie said:
…… I was issued both 4506 and 6906 S&Ws at different points in my career with little issue. Galling was worked out by S&W in the 70s. What vintage are you talking ?
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Mine is the 659. I bought it in 1988 or so. It has problem with galling. But I worked on it so it's ultra reliable. So now I just loaded it, put it under the bed and not shooting it. It's not accurate anyway, not something I waste bullet to keep going to the range. The accurized Gold Cup and believe it or not, the Ruger MkII 22 were my target shooting pistols as they are very accurate, More so than my S&W M19 and the Colt Trooper 8" revolvers.

I was out of shooting since early 90s. I still belong to the 80s. I bought a Glock 26 3yrs ago, I still yet to go shoot with it. Brand new in the box. Kept saying I am going to go shoot it one day. We used to go every Sat and Sun for yrs.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Any time 2 pieces of any steel rub together, there is wear.
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^^^ this, but I’d extend it to any material.

A alan0354 Traditional slip joints use brass or nickel silver for their pivots, and there are examples that have lasted generations. I can’t imagine how you’re going to improve your knife.

If you really feel like tinkering for the sake of tinkering, someone’s already recommended McMaster Carr, which is a great source of oddball materials and specifications. If they don’t carry it, you probably don’t need it.
 
EngrSorenson said:
^^^ this, but I’d extend it to any material.

A alan0354 Traditional slip joints use brass or nickel silver for their pivots, and there are examples that have lasted generations. I can’t imagine how you’re going to improve your knife.

If you really feel like tinkering for the sake of tinkering, someone’s already recommended McMaster Carr, which is a great source of oddball materials and specifications. If they don’t carry it, you probably don’t need it.
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I went through that right away, they don't even have anything of that diameter. Never mind about titanium.

I sent out to a lot of knife sellers whether they carry the pivot pin for Steel Will Warbot, that will definitely fit. I am going in all directions.
 
alan0354 said:
I went through that right away, they don't even have anything of that diameter. Never mind about titanium.

I sent out to a lot of knife sellers whether they carry the pivot pin for Steel Will Warbot, that will definitely fit. I am going in all directions.
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never mind. I just looked at that knife and I’ve got no suggestions. Maybe just buy a new knife.
 
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alan0354 said:
Mine is the 659. I bought it in 1988 or so. It has problem with galling. But I worked on it so it's ultra reliable. So now I just loaded it, put it under the bed and not shooting it. It's not accurate anyway, not something I waste bullet to keep going to the range. The accurized Gold Cup and believe it or not, the Ruger MkII 22 were my target shooting pistols as they are very accurate, More so than my S&W M19 and the Colt Trooper 8" revolvers.

I was out of shooting since early 90s. I still belong to the 80s. I bought a Glock 26 3yrs ago, I still yet to go shoot with it. Brand new in the box. Kept saying I am going to go shoot it one day. We used to go every Sat and Sun for yrs.
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.......... I have a worked Gold Cup and a brace of stainless 686s that are exceptional. The 4506 was one of the most reliable handguns I owned. But Glocks just go and go and go.
 
Andy the Aussie said:
.......... I have a worked Gold Cup and a brace of stainless 686s that are exceptional. The 4506 was one of the most reliable handguns I owned. But Glocks just go and go and go.
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I hope you are right about Glock.

I born cheap, I use a lot of reloads. All my semi auto except the Beretta little 950 25ACP. The Gold Cup, 659 and the Walther PPKS all needed to be worked on. One thing about the older guns, their ejection port were all too small, stove pipe happened on all of them using reload because it's weaker. I had to polish the port, reshape the extractor to make the shell pope out far, not just barely bounce out. I made my Gold Cup and PPKS pop like 4ft away from the gun. that show the shell is not hitting the ejector port on the way out. I did not manage to do that on the 659. But it never stove pipe anymore.

All the feed ramps had to be polish to mirror smooth to avoid feeding problem.

I just like to tinker, now the knives suffer!!! Yes, I don't have to do anything, but I just like to do it.
 
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If you are a gunsmith, you should be able to make the pivot pin. It would be easy on a lathe, but it can be done with a drill and a file.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
If you are a gunsmith, you should be able to make the pivot pin. It would be easy on a lathe, but it can be done with a drill and a file.
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Most gun smithing do not require fabricating parts. Most are fitting, smoothing out parts. Like polishing the ejector port, shaping the extractor and ejector. It's more the honing store work. Even smoothing the action of a revolver is polishing the parts, the arm that turn the cylinder and stuff. fixing the lighter single action trigger usually just use a specialized honing ceramic square or rod.

gun smithing is fairly easy usually. You break a part, you just buy a new one. Just like I bought the extractor for all my semi auto, I kept the original ones for insurance and just reshape the new ones, easy.

At the time, when I needed to squeeze the slide to fit thigh with the frame, I was working and we had a machine shop, I use their huge vise to do it. I don't have a milling machine, just a drill press at home now. Definitely cannot fabricate something from scratch.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I have been doing both cutlery and gunsmithing for over 50 years.
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I am not professional, just hobby. I don't fabricate parts for guns, most guns have abundance of after market parts and the job is to fit the new part, not making the part. I got the job done on my guns to make it ultra reliable with all different bullets, silky smooth double action on the revolvers. That's all it matters.

Changing pivots should be a no brainer if one can find the right part. The main difference is guns seems to be so much more popular that you can easily buy factory parts or after market parts where I have problem buying parts for my knives. I must contacted over 10 different places to try to buy the simple pivot for the Steel Will Warbot that can fit perfectly into the Censor, NOBODY HAS IT!!!

Look at just simple Glock, you can buy stock or after market barrels, extractors, ejectors, sights and all. this make gun smithing so much easier. Just simple fitting will do.
 
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EngrSorenson said:
The way you're going, you might want to address that.
the things you want to do are departing from casual tinkering.
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Yeh, I am about to give up. I hope someone has any idea. It's not the end of the world, just want to see there is any easy way to improve it. I think Steel Will is out of business. Too bad.

Thanks
 
0.235 inch is 5.969 milimeters. Funny number.
Any valid reason to replace existing pivot?
Care to explain?
 
A alan0354

Stainless steel will make a much better pivot pin than titanium, IMO.

You could just buy several more of those cheap folders to use for spare parts. That way, when you scratch the crap out of your "soft" pivot to the point it no longer functions (how does that happen, BTW?) you can just swap it out with a new one that doesn't require fitting.
 
Is it possible to drill bigger pivot hole on the hardened steel blade. What kind of drill bit can do that?

I read solid carbide is the best, any suggestion?

Say if I get a 1/4" pivot pin, what drill side I should get? Just simple 1/4" drill bit? Or I need to get slightly smaller bit?
 
alan0354 said:
Is it possible to drill bigger pivot hole on the hardened steel blade. What kind of drill bit can do that?

I read solid carbide is the best, any suggestion?

Say if I get a 1/4" pivot pin, what drill side I should get? Just simple 1/4" drill bit? Or I need to get slightly smaller bit?
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Depending on the HRC of the steel you will need

1: A very good vice. Clamping is 90% of the job.
2: A very good mill and collets
3: An endmill for hardened steel https://www.harveytool.com/products...-steels---corner-radius---for-steels-45-68-rc
4: a carbide reamer for hardened steel.

To do it right is time consuming and expensive and you can most likely buy a few new knives.
 
I use carbide drill bits for drilling hardened blades. When drilling hardened steel you want to use a slow drilling speed. I set my drill press at 620 rpm's, which is it's slowest speed. And you want to use a drilling coolant to prevent overheating.

And unless you have a drill press I would advise against attempting such a thing. It may be possible to do it with a slow speed hand drill, but you could just as easily break the bit. Steadiness is important as carbide is rather brittle. And for a knife pivot you want a certain level of uniformed precision.
 
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