Looking for a Scratch Resistant EDC

Noctis3880

Noctis3880

Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
11,409
As a starting point, I feel my Benchmade Osbourne 943 hits pretty close to the mark, aside from a few details.

The first problem is the loose screw, as the blade tends to loosen up to the point where it wobbles back and forth quite often, tightening any more will make the blade hard to open, and I'm not sure how to use loctite(if this should be used). The second is the coating. Since it's in the same pocket as my keys(if it's not my keys, it'll be my anodized light with knurling), any type of coating will get stripped away, though the anodizing is holding up better than I expected.

This is what I'm looking for:
-Plain edge, no serrations.
-No coatings, or one that can handle being scratched by keys on a daily basis(not sure if DLC can handle this). Might prefer a Satin finish on the blade anyway so I can polish it to a chrome finish.
-HRC 60 or more.
-Less than $300.
-"Super Steel" or no less than S30V type steel.
-Full Flat Ground blade profile if possible.
-No back lock(endura).
-Non-aggressive slip resistant handle(Endura is too aggressive while an Emerson CQC-7 feels just right).
-Assisted Opening if possible.
 
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Actually loctite is easy to apply. Loosen your pivot(if indeed it's the problematic screw) put a drop of loctite(use the blue so it's not permanent) on a a bottle cap or any other non porous surface and use a needle to apply to the threads of your pivot screw. Tighten pivot to desired degree.
 
singularity35 said:
Actually loctite is easy to apply. Loosen your pivot(if indeed it's the problematic screw) put a drop of loctite(use the blue so it's not permanent) on a a bottle cap or any other non porous surface and use a needle to apply to the threads of your pivot screw. Tighten pivot to desired degree.
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Thanks for the tip. I assume removal simply requires added torque?

Also, I've had my eye on the Benchmade 755 with the M390 "super steel".

Kinda beefy, but it's definitely smaller than a lot of what I have, plus I'm nuts for super steels.
 
Noctis3880 said:
I assume removal simply requires added torque?
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Not necessarily because you can just tighten it enough to keep the whole thing rigid and not one bit more. The loctite will keep the screws from coming loose. i also use loctite on the scale screws and clip screws.
 
Since the pivot screws can attract oil, I would clean everything with alcohol or some sort of degreaser. Apply a few small dabs of loc-tite (I use a straightened paperclip) to the threads of the screw. Then tighten the screw enough to allow smooth opening but not enough to start binding. Wipe off any residue and let everything cure for 12 or 24 (I forget which but the directions should say) hours.

That's it. :) Use the blue loc-tite! The red one will be very hard to remove and usually requires heat to break the bond.

As for a knife choice, it looks like you already have something that fits your needs quite nicely. There's no such thing as a scratch proof knife but CF or G-10 is pretty close. My Spyderco Sage 1 has been in my pocket since the day I got it and the handle scales look brand new. G-10 is very good at resisting scratches and since there's no metal to expose even deep scratches are hard to see.

I've carried the 943 for a few weeks and I liked it. Not enough to replace my Sage but close. ;) I'm trying out a small Sebenza right now so we'll see just how the Sage compares.
 
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Adjusting the pivot is easy. Just pull the pivot screw out, clean, and apply lock tite, teflon tape, or even finger nail polish as a substitute for loc tite. I used finger nail polish for years in a bike shop and have used it on my personal things and it seems to work just as good. Just let the knife sit over night once you put it on so it can dry. Also, as I am trying to find the sweet spot in pivot tension I push and pull horizontally on the blade some which seats the blade and washers. I find when I don't do that and I adjust the pivot it, it will loosen just enough to become loose as everything gets seated in place. Over tightening and loosening the pivot to where you like it will do the same thing.

As far as a knife stay away from metal handles and softer steels like 420 laminate blades and H1. A ZDP/ carbon fiber stretch meets most of your criteria except the back lock and it is a great knife.
 
dsmegst, you know, I love the Sage. However, compared to a 943 it's bulky. If you put two 94x's next to each other, the Sage takes up about 70% of the same volume as two knives. Mostly it's due to the width of the blade on the Sage, as opposed to the relatively slim 94x blade.

OP it kinda sounds like a version of the Kershaw Leek? I don't know my Kershaws, but I think I remember it having multiple editions with different steels. I've had my 943 for over 4 years, and you can definitely see the wear on it if you look, but to the untrained eye I don't think that the wear it's taken is that noticeable. I, too, carry it in the same pocket as my keys.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
A ZDP/ carbon fiber stretch meets most of your criteria except the back lock and it is a great knife.
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+1
I was thinking the same thing.

I also agree with the previous poster that you might consider a Leek, specifically the version with G10 scales and an S30V blade.
 
neuron said:
+1
I was thinking the same thing.

I also agree with the previous poster that you might consider a Leek, specifically the version with G10 scales and an S30V blade.
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Yep that is exactly what I was thinking too! A zdp/cf stretch or even a zdp/frn stretch, but then again you said no back lack.
 
I would go with something stonewashed. Stone washed blade with synthetic handles.

Really I'm thinking of a Stonewashed CC SMF, but that's a bit out of the price range.
 
ZT 0350 CB and when your done looking look again!! The ELMAX steel is amazing, its a ZT, assisted, sweet looking composite blade, what more could you want :)
 
Just get rid of the coating on your 943 handles and call it a day! You can do this by hand sanding/polishing it yourself. Or have somebody bead blast or stone wash it. Hell if you want I'll bead blast it for you for free if you pay shipping. I have a 943 coming in a couple days and I was thinking about blasting it as well so I'd love to see it when its done. Just a thought.
 
nevermind35 said:
Just get rid of the coating on your 943 handles and call it a day! You can do this by hand sanding/polishing it yourself. Or have somebody bead blast or stone wash it. Hell if you want I'll bead blast it for you for free if you pay shipping. I have a 943 coming in a couple days and I was thinking about blasting it as well so I'd love to see it when its done. Just a thought.
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Meh, not sure if I'll like bare aluminum. I've tried to strip off Type II anodizing from a light with EasyOff, but that didn't completely take it off. I've also found that it's laughably easy to scratch up the soft aluminum with a scotchbrite pad, so I'm not sure it's worth the effort to try and polish it if the keys will scuff the finish.
displacedtexan said:
Why not get some G10 scales for the 943?
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A little too complicated for my puny brain to handle.

The leek looks nice, but I'm leaning more towards the overbuilt "tank" knife, the 755 Sibert MPR.

My current EDC is a Spyderco Endura ZDP-189 flat ground by Tom Krein. While it's razor sharp and stays sharp, the knife simply doesn't feel balanced. The blade is long and thin, but the hardness of the super steel leaves me with the impression that the tip might snap off if I slip up while cutting with it. If I have a super razor thin blade with a small edge angle, I'd want it to be shorter.

And I apologize if this sounds a bit backwards, but the knife is almost TOO light, like it doesn't even have a presence in my hand.

So I figure a denser, shorter knife would give me more control and feel more comfortable in my hand.
 
I'm with Knifenut1013 on this. The ZT is pure quality, and the Elmax steel loves to get and stay sharp.

It's one that does well with a polished edge. In fact, it came pretty well polished from Kershaw/ZT, which is something you don't often see any more.

I brought it up to 8,000 grit DMT with a .50 micron strop and it got very sharp.

I'm of the opinion that it is more suited for this type stuff than S30V is. I haven't got it dull enough to check to see if it chainsaws when partially dull like S30V, S90V etc.

Still more secrets to discover!
 
How about a WH? This one fits almost all the criteria, although I'm not sure how you define small.

WHE6-AG1.jpg

Photo: Copyright A. G. Russell



- Mark
 
The Mastiff said:
I'm with Knifenut1013 on this. The ZT is pure quality, and the Elmax steel loves to get and stay sharp.

It's one that does well with a polished edge. In fact, it came pretty well polished from Kershaw/ZT, which is something you don't often see any more.

I brought it up to 8,000 grit DMT with a .50 micron strop and it got very sharp.

I'm of the opinion that it is more suited for this type stuff than S30V is. I haven't got it dull enough to check to see if it chainsaws when partially dull like S30V, S90V etc.

Still more secrets to discover!
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Looks like a beauty, aside from that recurve.

I typically use my EdgePro Apex to sharpen, and I never quite got the hang of sharpening the recurve on my S110V Kershaw Shallot.

I did order some paper wheels which might make it easier, but I'm not sure I'm about to practice it on a brand new knife.
 
I've been swamped with more choices, and now it just seems like a hunt for the ultimate super steel.

So far I'm looking at:
-ZT 350 CB Elmax.
-Benchmade 755 Sibert M390
-Spyderco Manix 2 CTS-XHP

I'm interested in thin edges with hair popping sharpness and good edge retention. I sometimes cut produce with my knives, so I was hoping for more corrosion resistance than ZDP-189.
 
Well, of the 3, I like the Manix 2 the best. I love that knife and steel combo. My preference is lighter EDC knives so it doesn't get much pocket time, especially in the summer when I mostly wear shorts. It rides in my backpack so it's always close by.

I'm still happy with the factory edge so it hasn't been to the sharpening wheel yet so I can't tell you how easy or hard it is to sharpen.
 
Noctis3880 said:
I've been swamped with more choices, and now it just seems like a hunt for the ultimate super steel.

So far I'm looking at:
-ZT 350 CB Elmax.
-Benchmade 755 Sibert M390
-Spyderco Manix 2 CTS-XHP

I'm interested in thin edges with hair popping sharpness and good edge retention. I sometimes cut produce with my knives, so I was hoping for more corrosion resistance than ZDP-189.
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All 3 are nice knives with new steels.
All of them are strong build and are "heavy" weight.
Hard users.

But the Manix is the best slicer of these 3. It the only one with ffg.
Also good edge retention and good corrosion resistant.:thumbup:
 
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