Looking for a Texas Survival knife.

I feel your pain. Most of the time you would be fine but there is still a chance that you could have problems with the letter of the law.

I find a lot of knives that I like that are just over 5.5" and I have to pass on them. I've found some possibilities though and the Ratmandu seemed like one of the best. Bark River Bravo 1.25 was another, and Bark River has some others in the reasonable size range. TOPS has a few, there is the Becker BK2 or the ESEE 5. The ESEE Laser Strike is similar length but lighter. I don't know any that have a fuller though. I like to contribute to the arguments about a fuller since I know what it won't do, but this is the first time I've known of someone using it to enhance their grip.
 
Might have thought of this one already but, Swamp Rat Ratmandu.



No fuller but I get a great grip choking up

+1. I'm a huge fan.





Kizlyar does make a great knife too though. I put this one through some very hard use and it just laughed at me.





Both Texas legal. I live there too.
 
The GSO 5.1 comes up here on the exchange pretty frequently. I have a 4.1 in 3V and it's excellent. I would watch the exchange here on bladeforums and snatched a 5.1 when available.
 
I like to contribute to the arguments about a fuller since I know what it won't do, but this is the first time I've known of someone using it to enhance their grip.

Yes, not to start a flamewar, but I am very against calling it a blood groove. That being said, I am also a little disappointed in how many companies do the fuller. At one point fullers made the knife stronger as it was forged into it. Some places still do forge it with a hydraulic press, but most machine, cut it, or grind it out. I absolutely love the fuller on my Ka-bar, it's nice and wide which gives a perfect spot to grab the spine. I find a knife with a fuller makes it easy to grab the spine and choke up on the tip for smaller work. Here is how FOG does the fuller (like most places)

WLZtsd9.jpg


The GSO 5.1 comes up here on the exchange pretty frequently. I have a 4.1 in 3V and it's excellent. I would watch the exchange here on bladeforums and snatched a 5.1 when available.
I'll have to start lookin'. And though time is no factor, I'd much prefer to get my new knife sooner rather than later. :)
 
I'll have to start lookin'. And though time is no factor, I'd much prefer to get my new knife sooner rather than later. :)

The 5.1s they've got up for preorder are going to be quite aways out. If you watch the production fixed blade exchange hard, you might be able to get one. Don't be scared of their 'seconds' if you want a user especially, they are excellent. However, the 5.1 has a 5.75" blade, tip to front of scales, don't know if that would put it out of the running for you. Wonderful knives though, as are the ratmandus. You might check out a Rodent 4 from Swamprat as well, or, if you can live without a choil, watch for a gso 4.7 as those are the current run and there's a chance some might hit the EX. Good luck man, and when you settle on something let us know what it is if you would :thumbup:
 
However, the 5.1 has a 5.75" blade, tip to front of scales, don't know if that would put it out of the running for you.

OH wow, thank you!! I've been looking at so many knives I totally missed that. Yea, unfortunately it puts it out of the running for me.


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Yes, not to start a flamewar, but I am very against calling it a blood groove. That being said, I am also a little disappointed in how many companies do the fuller. At one point fullers made the knife stronger as it was forged into it.

Forging it in does absolutely nothing to increase strength.
Nothing whatsoever.

It is simply a means to retain most of the strength while having a lighter blade.
Machining, it in, grinding it in, and forging it all do the exact same thing.

Forging does nothing magical to steel.
It is kinda cool, but not inherently superior at all.
 
Forging it in does absolutely nothing to increase strength.
Nothing whatsoever.

It is simply a means to retain most of the strength while having a lighter blade.
Machining, it in, grinding it in, and forging it all do the exact same thing.

Forging does nothing magical to steel.
It is kinda cool, but not inherently superior at all.

Not quite true. Forging it was to minimize the effect of removing volume from the blade (sword, knife, whatever it may be). Machining it or grinding it removes material from the blade without stiffening the section affected.


Though to be fair my initial comment was an over simplification.



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Not quite true. Forging it was to minimize the effect of removing volume from the blade (sword, knife, whatever it may be). Machining it or grinding it removes material from the blade without stiffening the section affected.


Though to be fair my initial comment was an over simplification.



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Minimize the effect of removing volume from the blade? Do go on...
 
Minimize the effect of removing volume from the blade? Do go on...

I'm sure the information can be found through some google searches, but the main concept is that either way (machining/cutting, or forging) you end up removing material from the blade. When you forge the fuller you compress the section and the blade expands in turn. To maintain shape/size you end up grinding it back to it's original shape. But with forging, the compressed section gains an increased stiffness due to the deformation.

Both forging and machining remove material (ie. weight) but forging has the ability to maintain strength while removing mass. Machining removes mass without compensating for the loss of material.
 
Silent member here for a while, long time lurker before that. I recently moved to Texas and unfortunately have to revise my normal survival knife. I have several different "survival" knives but none that are under the 5.5" blade length that Texas allows. I want to add back a wilderness "survival" knife to my backpack (I work at a college) that is TX legal.

I've unfortunately had some real trouble finding a knife that meets most of my criteria for a survival knife. Just FYI chances are my criteria doesn't match up with what's recommended for a "survival" knife, but I know what has served me well while camping the last decade.

In no particular order:

1. </= 5.5" blade length (from tip to handle) I specify as there are some companies that like to measure it differently
2. straight back, clip, or drop point (and some spear points)
3. 0.15"+ Thickness (preferably 0.20"+)
4. Large usable finger choil
5. ~40%:60% spine to grind ratio
6. a blade fuller (gives a better control when holding by the spine)
7. flat pummel
8. jimping on the spine
9. full tang (non-skeletonized)
10. lanyard hole/slot
11. front quillion

There have been a few knifes I've found that are close to what I like. But was wanting to see if anybody had any suggestions.
I'm leaning hard towards the Kizlyar, but want to see if there a clear choice I've missed.

svmIbaY.jpg

Kizlyar Supreme Maximus
I like this knife, but I'd have to drill out the handle rivets and put on some removable scales. Custom scales would also allow me to grind the pummel flat. Technically it's 5 5/8" blade so custom scales are a must to lengthen "handle" 0.25"

3VgdXcB.jpg

White River Knives - GTI 4.5
Also very nice, though I prefer the pummel to be perpendicular to the spine. No fuller, but no biggie. Jimping isn't too hard to add. Under 5" unfortunately.

ixu03Lz.jpg

Freeman Outdoors Gear - 5.5" Model 451 L.B. Field Knife
Pretty much ideal, but unavailable for an unknown amount of time.

Kyzliar offers excellent range of quality knives, (I have two and I am very impressed by their quality, fit and finish too) ,,,, did you think of Spetznaz knife DV 2?
 
Fallkniven are kinda full tang. They are full length partial tangs. Hence why I said 3/4 tang though to be fair it's probably 80-85%.

Also incorrect. Since the tang is full length it IS a full tang. Its is not a full EXPOSED tang.
 
Since the tang is full length it IS a full tang.

Not technically correct. By that logic any rat tail or stick tang that is a single full length piece is a full tang (ie Ka-bar USMC). Partial tangs exist by both width and length.

KI-1302-LOVELESS-03.jpg


I believe the correct term is an encapsulated tang. At this point we're splitting hairs. It is not a "traditional" full tang.

All this being said, the actual definition of tang varies.

"The term full tang means that the knife/sword is one solid piece and the 2 handle pieces are pinned on to the blade, one on each side. This is the strongest of the tang types. Half tang knives go the length of the knife handle, but only half the width of it." - http://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/knife-anatomy-101-what-is-a-knifes-tang/

"A full tang extends the full length of the grip-portion of a handle, versus a partial tang which does not. A full tang may or may not extend the full width of the handle." - https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tang_(weaponry)

"In the "Full tang knife", the blade continues to form the handle where pieces of wood or other materials are fixed. With this technique, the sides of the tang remain visible on the sides of the handle." - http://www.miville-deschenes.com/amd_anglais/shop_anatomy.html

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/313578-quot-Full-Tang-quot-defined

Regardless how you want to classify it, the Fallkniven S1 does not have the full unencapsulated tang of that of the Fallkniven BS1, which is my personal preference.


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Since the tang is full length it IS a full tang. Its is not a full EXPOSED tang.

Not technically correct. By that logic any knife with a single piece full length tang is a full tang. (ie the Ka-Bar USMC)
uGvHZmQ.jpg


Also

UM3G4WEm.jpg



I believe the most accurate term is an encapsulated tang. I prefer the "traditional" full tang. Either way you're splitting hairs over a definition that varies depending upon the source.



"A full tang extends the full length of the grip-portion of a handle, versus a partial tang which does not. A full tang may or may not extend the full width of the handle." - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tang_(weaponry)

"The term full tang means that the knife/sword is one solid piece and the 2 handle pieces are pinned on to the blade, one on each side. This is the strongest of the tang types." - http://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/knife-anatomy-101-what-is-a-knifes-tang/

"In the "Full tang knife", the blade continues to form the handle where pieces of wood or other materials are fixed. With this technique, the sides of the tang remain visible on the sides of the handle." - http://www.miville-deschenes.com/amd_anglais/shop_anatomy.html



http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/313578-quot-Full-Tang-quot-defined

The definition of "Full Tang" varies quite a bit depending upon the source. That being said, either way you want to look at it, the Fallkniven S1 does not have the full tang of the Fallkniven BS1 (which is my preferred tang style).
 
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They are. Sorry. I think you are confusing "splitting hairs" and your earlier "over simplification" with "wrong."
I am more than willing to debate with you over this in a dedicated thead should you feel the need. That being said, this thread is not about what you believe is wrong.

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Not my video, but the Busse Sar5 gets my vote, every time...


The link is dead, but I know about the BUSSE SAR5. I have one on the way actually. Apparently there are a lot of nay-sayers about this knife including Jerry Busse?? To me, it looks like a perfectly sized utility knife. At 5" it's kindof the perfect, do everything knife, and you simply can't beat INFI steel. I can't wait to get mine!!! What do you think about yours?? Also Photos!!!
 
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