Looking for a tough folder

NDJeep said:
Fully Serrated Salt 1

Works for specifically what you want but also a great everyday multi-task knife.

Available at a decent price.
http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Serrated-Yellow-Steel-Knife/dp/B001EIAYVC/ref=pd_sbs_sg_6

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There are serated knives and then there are SERATED KNIVES spyderco's spyder edge being the one in caps. Nothing will fill the bill you asked for "in my opinion" than this blade shown here. The way a serated knife will cut and cut much longer and not "seem" dull is that the outer points on the serations hit first. Now these points will dull first. But the beauty of it is that it protects the inner cutting edges and the thing will cut through a hammers head or comprobable type maliable/soft steel and then slice a tomatoe with ease. That is why those infomercials for cheap junk knives work so well. People are impressed when they see a man cut into steel of any sort then slice a tomatoe paper thin.

My conclusion: I would take the advice about the sypdercoes and run with it. But that one with the hawk claw or what ever that hidious looking blade is supposed to be, I would never get caught holding one in my hand. I think the straight bladed one here will serve the same purpose with out it looking like a knife designer had a bad nightmare. Again my opinion only and no offense to those that like that curved blade. I believe it would work better if designed with a slight convex curve versus a concave curve. Take the samuri sword as an example. A fantastic cutting and slicing machine proven over thousands of years. Look at its blade shape. A shape when truly formed in the old tradition it takes on that curve because of two discimler metals. One metal folded over another metal of different martinsite and or hardness. One will heat or cool at very different rates thus when the blade is heat treated and cooled is when the shape is formed. My two pennies worth.

PS: And I thought those serated blades would be a nightmare to sharpen before I saw my son "who I taught how to sharpen knives but now does it better than me" ! He took that rattail type sharpener and just would slide it into each seration. There may be more to it than that but since I do not own a serrated knife my knowledge is very limited as you can see above. Also I must add for the person that mentioned the Junkyard Dog. If one owned one of these he has made a very wise choice. With the largest portion of the blade made of 13C26 then the laminated/dovetailed/etc darker steel being D2 is beautiful in both asthetics and quality. If made in a serrated edge I believe this would be a good choice as well. But in the price range you mentioned I really do not know if it fits. You would have to take care of the D2 part of the blade but what is it to have a little TAC cloth in your pocket and simply wipe the blade once in a while. TAC cloth maybe the wrong name but the cloth with oil in it if you will. You will notice on these "composite dovetailed" blades that there is a thin copper liner between the two metals. Since those two metals will expand and contract at very different rates the copper will always expand/contract/slower/faster which ever the case than the other metals, thus holding them tight under any circumstance.

Kind Regards,
Daniel J. Benoit
 
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kreole said:
You're a sailor cutting rope? Then definitely a Spyderco Spyderhawk (if you're unfamiliar with it, its H1 steel is literally rustproof):

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Now that I know you a sailor cutting rope, I'd like to through in my vote in for the Salt. You won't find a better design for cutting rope then a serrated hawkbill blade, PERIOD.
 
Probably more than you want to spend, but one of the toughest folders on the market is the ZT0200. New is just over $100, but Kershawguy sells blems from time to time at reduced prices, and the blems are a real deal.

The 0200 is a recurve which I find real handy for rope cutting. The handles are textured G10 which funnels water, sweat and other fluids away from the hands.

Blade steel is 154CM and holds an edge very well.
 
There have been several recommendations that I wouldn't call a hard use knife and have fairly thin blades. They might be great slicers and good deals but not heavy duty.

For heavy duty I would try to save up another 20 bucks and look at the Manix 2. The salt knives are nice because like said, they are impossible to rust. You can leave it sitting in salt water and a year later there won't be a speck of rust. The serrated versions will make good rope cutters but I would think the hawkbill has a pretty delicate tip and also is pretty specialized design. There isn't a very useful tip and stabbing is out. The plain edge H1 also doesn't hold an edge very well in my experience but the serrated should be better since it is work hardened.

The full size Griptilian is a work horse and should take some punishment as well and should be close to your price range. I'm not a big fan of Cold steel and haven't handled many of their knives but they might actually do well for your needs.
 
If you're already looking at Cold Steel...did you see the American Lawman?
I've been eyeballing one of these for awhile. Decently priced too.

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