Looking for a tuturial for convexing my knife.

[tiguy7]

The advantages of the convex edge are 1) there is more meat behind the edge so it is stronger, and 2) it is easier to change directions when cutting because of the shape. If you are trying to make thin, even slices; you probably wouldn't want a convex edge.

 

[KennyB]

I convex my edges on my waterstone.

I start out grinding in a normal V grind. I wait until the edges are mostly covered. At this point I would normally add in a microbevel to finish out the edge and get a burr, but instead I start making edge-leading strokes while lowering the back of the knife, I then pull backward while raising the back edge just up until the angle you would have ground your microbevel at. There's lots of room for error in this, but you want to bring it back as close as possible to the highest angle and not any further, otherwise you roll over your edge and have to start over. It may be easier to grind in a full V grind + microbevel and then convex off the shoulders because of this.

Then turn it around and the other otherside like that as well, and keep the process up until you have the desired radius, then slowly grind off the burr with the stone as best you can, maybe finishing that up with a buffer or something.

Just thought I'd share it since a lot of people go the mouse-pad and sandpaper route.

 

[Dynamo wave convex 1]

I convex all my knives big and small as compound bevels are no good for wood carving (however I don't know about convexing on sandpaper or belt sanders) small knives on ether of these my be rather hard?

 

[richard j]

dynamo, this thread is 2 years old

 

[Magnaminous_G]

I have to admit that some of the most interesting posts I've ever read were necroposts like this, brought back from the dead but still great! I've never watched those vids before.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I convex all my knives big and small as compound bevels are no good for wood carving (however I don't know about convexing on sandpaper or belt sanders) small knives on ether of these my be rather hard?

Fully realizing this is an old thread, I'll add this point to address your question. Convexing a small or thin blade's edge is as easy as stropping, literally (assuming one is familiar and comfortable with stropping ). Just lay some sandpaper over a somewhat forgiving surface like leather, or a magazine. For the sandpaper (wet/dry type), grits at 400 or higher work great in this application, or use some coarser grit on big, thick blades if a lot of metal needs to come off. Just 'strop' the edge on the sandpaper, and keep the angle conservatively low, because convexing will tend to produce a slightly thicker edge (paper will wrap around the bevel; more so at greater pressure on soft backing).

With very thin blades, use some higher grit paper (I wouldn't go below 600). Coarser paper will be overkill, and anything in 600 - 1000 range will very quickly convex the edge on thinner blades, such as found in traditional pocketknives. Using a firmer backing, like thinner leather or fewer pages of stacked paper, or wood, will produce a more subtle convex, which is my preference on most all blades. Just a little bit of rounding or smoothing the shoulders of the bevel will make a big difference in ease of cutting.