looking for advice hand sanding sabre grind

T

terrinecold

Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Messages
113
Hello,
I have started on my next knife. I would like to try using a sabre grind, one (bad) reason is to save a bit of time on the filing jig another (better) is that I also like the look and would try to make one.
What I worry a bit about is that when I have done grinding and when I sand the blade (both the grinded part and the not grinded which will need sanding after heat treatment) The shart separation between the two parts of the blade will be smoothed out by the sanding process.
Do you have any advices to avoid this.

Here is the current state of the knife (not quite as happy with the shape of it as the previous one, I had to make the kick at the end of the tang more pronounced that I really wanted to hide an overzealous hacksaw cut.



The holes are big as I will use mosaic pins for the first time.
 
If you back your sand paper with a hard stiff material, flat for flat grind,curved for hollow grind in the same arc it should do the job for you. If your grind is very poor the sanding won't benefit much.
Frank
 
thanks, I usually use a piece of mild steel that I used to practice file work as backing for my sand paper so it should do.
 
Watch Nick Wheeler's youtube video titled, "Hand Sanding Knives 101". It's an excellent video for learning good practices and techniques for hand sanding that teach you how to make sure all the scratches from the previous sandpaper grit are out before moving on to the next, as well as keeping the transition lines from bevels to flats and to swedges etc. nice and crisp. :thumbup:

Here's the video:

[video=youtube;4I4x4QLpfnk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk[/video]


Here is another video with some of the same info but you can pick up a few other tips by watching it as well :thumbup: :

[video=youtube;NJ4Mitbpyzc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJ4Mitbpyzc[/video]


~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
coldsteelburns said:
Watch Nick Wheeler's youtube video titled, "Hand Sanding Knives 101". It's an excellent video for learning good practices and techniques for hand sanding that teach you how to make sure all the scratches from the previous sandpaper grit are out before moving on to the next, as well as keeping the transition lines from bevels to flats and to swedges etc. nice and crisp. :thumbup:

Here's the video:

[video=youtube;4I4x4QLpfnk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk[/video]


Here is another video with some of the same info but you can pick up a few other tips by watching it as well :thumbup: :

[video=youtube;NJ4Mitbpyzc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJ4Mitbpyzc[/video]


~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I already watched them and practiced those technics when doing my first knife which was a full flat grind.
I guess I am worrying too much and will see how it goes by this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well I did the grind and hand sanded the knife using the described technic and to the best of my ability. However what I was afraid of happened (sorry forgot to take a picture) and the limit between the grind area and the flat area became all fuzy. So now instead of looking intentional it looks like the knife is uneven. So I plan to put it back in the jig and finish it up all the way to a full flat grind then hand sand again.
I am assuming that the problem is that when I sand I am not holding the sand paper holder flat enough on the blade I must be rocking it a bit from side to side. So my plan for next time is to attach the sand paper to the same filing jig I used, this should keep the paper at the same angle as the file and keep that separation between grind area and not grinded area nice and neat.
 
Slow down. Use the hard backer like the video says. Use both hands to provide even pressure and pull at a steady rate. At the end of each stroke make sure your sand paper is tight. Then push at a steady rate.
Once you get the hang of things speed up. At the lower grits you are removing a lot of material, so be more mindful of what you are doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top