Looking for an epoxy that can handle high heat.

If you have access to a mill wouldn't the easiest route be to make the metal part with an anti-rotation tab or two, or even rectangular for its full depth, mill out a suitable pocket in the wood and retain the metal wither with c-sk screws from the front through the anti-rotation tabs, or in c-bored holes from the back into tapped blind holes in the full depth block?

No glue, no risk of rotation.

I too would have thought that a different metal would have been better than aluminum. Maybe hard brass?
 
Chris - I would have to see a drawing of what you are talking about to get what you are driving toward.

I wonder if a hard brass / bronze would work too. It would certainly be lower friction - and look cooler.

TF
 
C_Claycomb said:
If you have access to a mill wouldn't the easiest route be to make the metal part with an anti-rotation tab or two, or even rectangular for its full depth, mill out a suitable pocket in the wood and retain the metal wither with c-sk screws from the front through the anti-rotation tabs, or in c-bored holes from the back into tapped blind holes in the full depth block?

No glue, no risk of rotation.

I too would have thought that a different metal would have been better than aluminum. Maybe hard brass?
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simpler version - inset a square piece of 5/32" thick bronze into the back of the scale, then drill a 1/2" diameter divot from the front side for your bearing block, making sure you go no deeper into the bronze than 1/8". I personally prefer bronze to brass because it tarnishes but does not seem to corrode as much - and also work hardens very well. (learned this the hard way when I accidentally picked up some bronze rivets & burrs for leather work rather than the copper they were supposed to be)
 
Talfuchre said:
I am make a project where I plan on bonding aluminum to wood - I need that bond to hold up to at least 800 degrees - perhaps 1000. Is there any epoxy that does this?

Any advice would be great.

TF
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I've made composite mufflers and am up on hi temp resins and there is nothing rated for that kind of temps available just now.


I used to have a piece of soapstone with a divot that made the best bearing for the drill. It broke though. . .
 
Rick Marchand said:
I have a friend who tried skate bearings. They are not made for side loading and didn't last long. A tapered bearing might work better.
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A taper bearing works great, ask me how I know:p There was a giveaway contest in WSS that some one did a sealed bearing in piece of antler, I tried it in a piece of wood and after a few tries the bearing got rough so I switched out to a tapered bearing and haven't had a problem, and the press fit holds no problem
 
The problem with thrust bearings is finding them sealed. I can't seem to find them unless they are in three pieces - two washers and the bearing race.

TF
 
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