Looking for custom tactical L6 Tanto-styled fixed fighter blade, where can I find?

L6Hunter said:
Thanks for the help, guys. I still kind of want this custom L6 tanto just because of the fact that it seems it's never been done before and I might as well have something original.
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ummm.... post #9 above mentioned a custom maker who is producing them?

Sonnemann said:
Josh Mason just sold some L6 tantos on the Exchange here. That reminds me, I have to reply to his PM about making me one too :)
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Oh, and if you're trying to find something that works great for stabbing, I'd try to make sure it has some sort of guard on there. The guard will help prevent your fingers from slipping down the handle onto the edge if you stab something too hard/impenetrable.

And just so you know, L6 rusts very, very easily. Way easier than my other carbon steels (SK5, 1095, and 1095 CroVan). My Svords have a patina on them, and they manage just fine. But if you put them away dirty/wet just once, you'll be dealing with some serious spotting the next time you use them (at the very least).

Good luck :).
 
If the goal is to get through kevlar, it's a matter of geometry and a material hard enough to get through. In this case, as I mentioned earlier, if you go to any reputable maker or company, their knives will use steel that's strong enough for this. That includes Cold Steel and their AUS-8. They stab through car parts in many of their videos. Also, you're probably thinking of an Americanized tanto, in which case, you want to be careful about which design you go with. Many Americanized tantos are extra think at the tip. Sure that makes the tip harder to damage, but it also makes it much more difficult for penetrating stuff. And that's when it just comes down to the geometry of the blade, rather than the steel type. You probably want something not too thick at the tip.
 
Heavy duty L6 stabber, Svord Hog Beater 11.5" blade
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Here's another blade that was designed for the purpose the OP described. It might be hard to believe, but I'm not a huge CRKT fan. But James Williams designs were a definite win for the company. This is the CRKT Hissatsu,and it was designed specifically for military personnel for real CQC:

budkhissatsu02.jpg
 
As mentioned before, everything pointy goes through kevlar. A better bet is to strike where the armor isn't, if possible. Training, training, training. Personally I think you'd be happier with 1084 or 80CrV2-both hold a wicked edge, are extremely tough when ht'd right (differential hardened or differential tempered-the latter is less bendy but not quite so tough). If it's strictly a fighting knife (which the traditional tanto is) the likelihood of breaking a 1/4" blade of any decent carbon steel in that role is really, really small-I have to use a 3' breaker bar to bend test blades to 90 degrees and I am not a lightweight in te breaking things department. I had a Hissatsu at one point and it's a great design, but whatever steel they use dulls on that plastic scabbard instantly-as in on the first draw-and was really just a very attractive tent stake. Kydex dull edges, but this was out of hand.
 
The steel I am using is called 8670M. It's not a true L6, but pretty close (The "M" designation is for "Modified"). In my experience its some really tough stuff. I've been playing with it alot, and believe that I have gotten a really good heat treat down. Here are some examples of a double edged combat blade I recently made from it.

L6 and 8670M have a high nickel content. In my experience, the stain resistance is better than A2 or any of the 10xx series carbon steels. It grinds "brighter" and really seems to be lower maintenance as far as oiling and storage. My experiences conflict with an earlier poster, but I will maintain my findings.

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Sharp!
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I just bought the little brother to that knife Josh posted. From my rather limited use of it I really like it.

Not a tanto but I guarantee you it'll penetrate. I you have to have a tanto I'm sure he could make you one. Also the swedge is sharpened on this. He could make it unsharpened or even with no swedge. That's the great thing about custom. He can make it pretty much any way you want!
 
Josh Mason said:
The steel I am using is called 8670M. It's not a true L6, but pretty close (The "M" designation is for "Modified"). In my experience its some really tough stuff. I've been playing with it alot, and believe that I have gotten a really good heat treat down. Here are some examples of a double edged combat blade I recently made from it.

L6 and 8670M have a high nickel content. In my experience, the stain resistance is better than A2 or any of the 10xx series carbon steels. It grinds "brighter" and really seems to be lower maintenance as far as oiling and storage. My experiences conflict with an earlier poster, but I will maintain my findings.
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I totally agree with Josh. I have used a LOT of the 8670M (Admirals L6) and also regular L6. It outperforms most of the other carbon steels by a long ways, including 1095, 1084, 80crv2......
Just my .02
 
Well, as the one that mentioned that, I'm actually interested in this. As makers I'm sure you both have more experience with the steel than I do, but all I shared was my experience with the steel.

Most of my 1095 experience is actually with Kabars 1095CV (which I understand is more corrosion resistant than plain 1095), and my only L6 experience is with Svord Peasants. And the svords are much more prone to corrosion in my experience.

Maybe its that the svords are finished more roughly, so they have more surface area with the air to corrode with than your customs? Maybe Kabar/Beckers 1095CV is further from normal 1095 than I thought? Just curious here what your thoughts are on this.

And I swear I'd seen a chart somewhere that showed carbon steels corrosion resistances, and (from what I thought I remember of that chart that I can't find) that L6 and S7 had some of the lowest corrosion resistances of the carbon steels. With D2, CPM - 3V, and A2 being on the more corrosion resistant end of the carbon steel spectrum. I'll see if I can find that chart again here in a bit, but my quick search for it just now has left me empty handed.
 
A lot of steels get thrown on a chart together that don't compare at all.
3V, D2, and A2 are all air hardening steels and are completely different animals.
 
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Go buy a Cold Steel Warcraft Tanto. 3V steel at 61 HRC (which is apparently optimum for toughness), DLC coating, strong enough to support the weight of a car.

Also cheaper than going the custom route.
 
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