looking for folders in "tough" steels, any suggestions?

You're gonna love it! Just be sure you get a serrated blade, it outperforms any other steel in that blade configuration. H1 Plain Edge will probably deceive you.
Enjoy it!

20150801_084255_zpszcjjkua9.jpg


This folder is really tough, not only steel-wise!
 
As I said, Koenig Atrox, but it may be over your budget or just illegal to carry in your locale.

Yea that's a good looking knife, unfortunately it's a little out of my price range. I can't tell you how many years it took before I'd cut anything but cardboard with a knife that cost over $100. Which meant anything over $100 was just something to look at because I need a knife for day to day service. Don't think I didn't cringe the first time I stuck my military through a piece of ductboard:) But you only live once and there's something to be said for the little things in life like carrying a knife you enjoy.
 
Comes right down to it, 420HC, tho' often dissed here, is a very tough steel, in addition to being highly corrosion resistant and easy to sharpen to a hair-popping edge. Doesn't have the high carbide content of S30V, D2, etc. but in day-to-day use it's fine for millions of users. Used side-by side with the fine-grained Sandvik steels like 12C27, it would be hard to tell the difference IMHO.
 
High strength steels aren't that common in folders. It's easier to find corrosion resistance or very high wear than high strength because of market demands . . .
. . . and possibly common sense as well.

I think what Joe was referring to in his post is high "toughness" steels as opposed to high "strength" steels. Either way, however, my question is what the OP is planning to do with a folder that would require that it emphasize either one of those characteristics.
 
You would think you would see more of the large hard use folders being made from high toughness steels like L6, A2, 3V, or even 5160. Instead the popular steels are low toughness high wear resistance steels like M390, Elmax, S30V...etc?? Is it because you really don't need the toughness of 3V in a folder or is it a matter of which steels are popular and sell?
 
I certainly don't need the toughness of 3V in a folder nor do I own any folders constructed of the high-toughness alloys you mentioned. I have some fixed-blades made out of them, though.
 
Last edited:
Well A tougher steel should be able to be taken down to a smaller included angle? And a finer grained steel should be able to be taken to a sharper edge. I have no problem with sharpening a knife so wear resistance is not a top priority. I do have a problem with any steel that will chip so these super hard high carbide "super" steels are not my cup of tea apparently.You can get s90v sharp, but you can't get it 1095 sharp. And I'm sure somebody gonna say well I can sit down with my new fangled wiz bang sharpener and in an hour I can get s90v as sharp as 1095. But think what you can do to 1095 if you took an hour to sharpen it.
 
Well A tougher steel should be able to be taken down to a smaller included angle? And a finer grained steel should be able to be taken to a sharper edge. I have no problem with sharpening a knife so wear resistance is not a top priority. I do have a problem with any steel that will chip so these super hard high carbide "super" steels are not my cup of tea apparently.You can get s90v sharp, but you can't get it 1095 sharp. And I'm sure somebody gonna say well I can sit down with my new fangled wiz bang sharpener and in an hour I can get s90v as sharp as 1095. But think what you can do to 1095 if you took an hour to sharpen it.

If you don't care about sharpening, you might actually look long and hard at a Svord Peasant. I think it uses L6, which is really tough stuff.
 
Comes right down to it, 420HC, tho' often dissed here, is a very tough steel, in addition to being highly corrosion resistant and easy to sharpen to a hair-popping edge. Doesn't have the high carbide content of S30V, D2, etc. but in day-to-day use it's fine for millions of users. Used side-by side with the fine-grained Sandvik steels like 12C27, it would be hard to tell the difference IMHO.

If I can put a screaming edge on it, it doesn't chip, and it last a day until I've got to touch it up on a steel it it's in my wheelhouse:)
 
Well A tougher steel should be able to be taken down to a smaller included angle? And a finer grained steel should be able to be taken to a sharper edge. I have no problem with sharpening a knife so wear resistance is not a top priority. I do have a problem with any steel that will chip so these super hard high carbide "super" steels are not my cup of tea apparently.You can get s90v sharp, but you can't get it 1095 sharp. And I'm sure somebody gonna say well I can sit down with my new fangled wiz bang sharpener and in an hour I can get s90v as sharp as 1095. But think what you can do to 1095 if you took an hour to sharpen it.
Yes, that's a good argument. I just wonder if most people think about taking their edges down to a smaller included angle when they go shopping for high toughness folders. I suspect not or more folders would be made out of high toughness alloys. It's more likely they equate high toughness with hard use. And I reserve hard use for fixed-blade knives. YMMV.
 
The advantage of a tougher steel in a folder is the edges hold up to abuse more, less chipping. The disadvantage is that tough steels are not stainless and in a folder with all the hidden nook and crannies that can be a problem. I would not mind a folder in 1095, A2 or 3V, I won't go out of my way to find one. M4 is a good tough steel also and I know there are many folders made out of it.
 
If you can't sharpen something like S90V then well...... ;)

I did not say I couldn't sharpen s90v, I said given the same starting point, the same amount of time, and the same equipment the 1095 is always going to be sharper. And when you get them sharp the s90v is probably going to chip in any real world environment while the 1095 is not.
 
I did not say I couldn't sharpen s90v, I said given the same starting point, the same amount of time, and the same equipment the 1095 is always going to be sharper. And when you get them sharp the s90v is probably going to chip in any real world environment while the 1095 is not.

Ah, no..... Sorry dude....

Sharpness is the actual measurement of the apex measured in nano-meters and I know I can get them to the same point.

I use S90V pretty much everyday and it's thin at .006" behind the edge, haven't seen any chipping issues even cutting through bone.
 
The advantage of a tougher steel in a folder is the edges hold up to abuse more, less chipping. The disadvantage is that tough steels are not stainless and in a folder with all the hidden nook and crannies that can be a problem. I would not mind a folder in 1095, A2 or 3V, I won't go out of my way to find one. M4 is a good tough steel also and I know there are many folders made out of it.

Yea the 810 I bought is coated m4, I would like to see coated or laminated tool steel blade folders explored a little more. Get the properties of the tool steel and protect it with a lamination or coating.
 
Ah, no..... Sorry dude....

Sharpness is the actual measurement of the apex measured in nano-meters and I know I can get them to the same point.

I use S90V pretty much everyday and it's thin at .006" behind the edge, haven't seen any chipping issues even cutting through bone.

Yea ok. I've got a s90v v blade that chipped within the first week of using it and I've got a 1095 blade i've used for 30 years doing the same exact thing and it is yet to chip. You do the math.
 
Back
Top