Looking for good Fixed EDC options

T

Treiz

Joined
Apr 2, 2013
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Hello all, this is my first post after doing a bit of research on what's available for my needs. I have spent some time trying to get good info to use to compare steels but haven't had much luck. Most descriptions that I find are merely relative or over generalized. From what I have gathered, and after hours of looking through knife websites I have found a few that I like. I'm trying to find a good fixed EDC knife with a blade 3-5" long for pocket carry. I live in Houston, Texas so it will have to stand up to humidity, sweat, and basic EDC tasks. So far I like these:

BM162 Bushcrafter s30v

BM104 Nimravus 154cm

SOG Team Leader AUS-8

ESEE 3 or 4 1095

I really like the looks of the ESEE knives, but the 1095 concerns me. In fact, based on what I have learned I am surprised that 1095 would be so popular as a Bushcrafting knife steel. I have experience with AUS-8 in my current EDC, Coldsteel Recon 1 Tanto. I also like the BM162 a lot. If you have suggestions of similar knives or other knife makers to check out I'd appreciate it. I'd like to stay in the <$200 range, but will consider more expensive options if there is value there to justify it. I want a great blade that will last and I am trying learn sharpening/maintenance as well to be able to do my part.
 
Do yourself a favor and check out the becker bk14. Don't worry about 1095---- use some tuff glide and it will stay rust free! Have 710customsheaths or azwelke make you a custom kydex pocket sheath for it too. You will have enough $ left over to buy another blade :D

My EDC yesterday--- my bk14 with the black coating stripped:

38C278A2-D5BF-40BA-B466-2EC23424FC24-5391-000003014C003071_zps7918567a.jpg
 
BM162 Bushcrafter s30v if you can afford it, ESEE 4 works great even with the 1095 steel.... f you have the skill an patioence you could craft your own that's, my current edc for today.
 
Welcome to the forum.

The first thing to do is design your ideal knife.

The 3- 5-inch range strikes me as being too wide. The difference between 3 and 5-inch blades is large, both in how the knife carries and what it can do.

You might want to first consider the grind and geometry of your knife. Thin blades cut a lot better. Convex, flat, sabre and hollowground will perform much differently, too, depending on what you need to cut. Personally, I like pointy blades because they are so useful for detail work.

The handle geometry is also important, but only you can determine what you like. The sheath is important, too. How a knife carries and feels in the hand can make the difference between a knife you love and one you put up with.

From my perspective, the most common mistake people make is to get a blade too thick to cut well and too blunt for detail work.

The steel is normally your last decision. Because there are great stainless and non-stainless steels, there is no point to going with a non-stainless unless you have a very specific use in mind and are comfortable that you can keep it rust free.

The Benchmade 162 is a good knife, just on the high side of center for your blade-length range. The blade is middling pointy, The blade thickness is 0.164 inches, which is a little thick for my tastes. The steel is S30V, which is a good stainless steel, but there are better -- S35VN, M390, Elmax, S90V.

Now compare it to Spyderco's South Fork, which has just a slightly longer blade. But the blade is much different. It's long and pointy, with a slight trailing point design. The blade is 0.118 inches thick, so it's going to cut a lot better, but probably be less strong if you do a lot of prying. And the steel is S90V, which will hold an edge much better than S30V. It will give you much more use in the field before it needs sharpening. I just bought one for $200, but they usually go for more.

The ESEE 4 blade is a little more blunt. The blade is 0.188 inches thick and coated to reduce rust. With the coating and the thicker blade, it will not slice as well. The old-school 1095 steel is good, but non-stainless. It will sharpen easier than the other two, but not hold an edge as well.

Huge differences in those knives, but they all fall within are are close to your specs.

The Spyderco Mules are a good option, too, but you'll need to find someone to put a handle on them and build a sheath. But you can get a great steel for a good price and you can have a knifemaker build the handle and sheath to your needs, if you know your needs.
 
rg02 said:
Do yourself a favor and check out the becker bk14. Don't worry about 1095---- use some tuff glide and it will stay rust free! Have 710customsheaths or azwelke make you a custom kydex pocket sheath for it too. You will have enough $ left over to buy another blade :D

My EDC yesterday--- my bk14 with the black coating stripped:

38C278A2-D5BF-40BA-B466-2EC23424FC24-5391-000003014C003071_zps7918567a.jpg
Click to expand...

Or try the bk24. It's a 14 in "semi stainless" D2 steel. Mine came amazingly sharp. I tried to force a patina on it, like I do on carbon steel. Wouldn't even take.
 
Treiz,

Let me recommend either the Esee Izula II or the Kabar Becker 11, you will notice if you search for my posts, that I have done extremely extensive testing and reviewing of the 11. The 11 offers, I believe, a 3.5 inch blade with multiple use options due to the design of the handle. 1095 Cro-Van is an extremely tough steel--it takes and holds an edge well, sharpens easily, and can take a beating. Best of all--it's inexpensive. You can pick up an 11 for a quarter of your knife funds (what was it, two hundred?). I've had an 11 for about what..three..four years? Used it every year to split wood, shave wood, start fires--up to three times a day, every day through autumn and winter. Not to mention all the other things I've done with it. Can't beat either Esee, Kabar, or Becker for quality or customer service.
 
Spyderco Street Beat. Micarta and stainless (VG10) - great geometry and good carry sheath for EDC.

spystreetbeat1.jpg
 
Maybe look at Bark River. You might be able to find a stainless Gunny in your range. If not, there are plenty of other designs they have that should fit your needs. All will be tough and good cutters.
 
You could always look at having a knife made by one of the knife makers on this forum I just recieved 2 knives today and they are awesome knives and knowing that you had a hand in the design process is pretty cool to. Check out DP knives or Keith Willis both are great guys to deal with.
 
Thanks for all the great tips so far. To be more specific I'd like to find a blade that's 4-4.5", I've never had a convex knife and think they look cool, but a flat or saber grind would be fine. I have my super tool for the smaller stuff, this knife will be for the big jobs. I have added the Spyderco South Fork to the list, and will check out the Kabar/Beckers and the Bark River knives.
 
ESEE is set to release their "4" in stainless steel shortly. That might be a good option for you.
 
How about the DPX HEFT4 ?
Niolox steel, made by Lionsteel in Italy, available with wood or G10 grips.
 
Imo concern over 1095 vs stainless is a non issue unless you will be working in direct contact with salt water. I live in a very humid area as well, and my esee 3 regularly gets sweat on it with no ill effects. Just keep it clean and sharp and there should be no worries. In my mind the 4 is a bit big for EDC, while the 3 is a great compromise in all points, excellent slicer, not too big but big enough to do 99% of what needs done.
 
Any idea when the ESEE stainless will hit and which steel they will use?

The dpx knives look cool, thanks for the info. I've been looking at them all morning.

Its good to know that the 1095 woes that I have been reading about seem to be exaggerated.
 
Treiz said:
Its good to know that the 1095 woes that I have been reading about seem to be exaggerated.
Click to expand...

carbon steel in general. most people who say they had problems with carbon steel either consider some mild staining to be a problem, or they have rare sweat glands which secrete powerful acids. If you can't handle some staining, go stainless, because an edc in carbon steel in the heat and humidity is bound to get some. but it shouldn't affect the function of your knife at all.

personally, I'd go esee 3 over the 4 for Edc, mostly due to it being a thinner blade.
 
With a good coating, this isn't an issue at all. You can't go wrong with Becker or ESEE. Their 1095 is good stuff!
 
I just picked up a Scrap Yard Scrapivore so far its a keeper. I have switched to Small fixed Bladed for work days (Builder/Re-Modeler) under 3 inches. I also carry a Custom Jon Graham Razel and a Brous SS for my EDC fixed blades. I have to say that the Razel for me is the best knife I have used for my work. Having a Wood chisel in my pocket is handy. I'm also a big fan of 1095 I have had no issues with my 3 knives made from it. I also like the TOPS blue badger its a great little guy. I just finsned murdering 20 heavy boxes for the trash that had hardwood flooring in them with my Scrapivore and it has held an edge very well. The SR-101 steel has peaked my interest thinking about ordering a Scrapyard 311 next pay day.
 
goodeyesniper said:
carbon steel in general. most people who say they had problems with carbon steel either consider some mild staining to be a problem, or they have rare sweat glands which secrete powerful acids. If you can't handle some staining, go stainless, because an edc in carbon steel in the heat and humidity is bound to get some. but it shouldn't affect the function of your knife at all.

personally, I'd go esee 3 over the 4 for Edc, mostly due to it being a thinner blade.
Click to expand...
And honestly with the coating, staining is not a concern anyway. If you were to get one of the new uncoated versions (when they hit) forcing a patina is a good way to solve most of that. As to the stainless esee...who knows? Theyve got the stainless coming, the uncoated 1095, and the long awaited Izula Folder coming soon. Ive heard or seen nothing indicating a time frame for any of it, except for rumor saying the folder will be out this year.
 
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