Looking for help

[DevinT]

Switching to Pop’s ProCut or 80crV2 would be better for heat treating in a forge.

The hardest part about using a forge to heat treat in is uniform heating, the tip always heats up faster than the rest of the blade.

Hoss

 

[Taz]

Look for used pottery kilns online like FB marketplace. They are pretty easy to rig up a PID/Thermocouple to them to use. I built my own HT Oven 2 summers ago and re did it this summer because the original K23 firebricks do not insulate well! 2nd one works SOOOO much better and even with using a pre made element, expensive WiFi PID, etc, it was still 1/3 the price of a factory built unit and I have a 27" x 7" x 6" chamber.

ProCut is VERY forgiving temperature wise, but a kiln is still your best bet! It will also help you be able to judge temperatures better when you can see what the steel actually looks like at 1500, 1600, 1400, etc in different lighting conditions! It's amazing at how "cool" the steel looks; most people doing it by eye overshoot the mark by a lot!

 

[nicosteve]

Look for used pottery kilns online like FB marketplace. They are pretty easy to rig up a PID/Thermocouple to them to use. I built my own HT Oven 2 summers ago and re did it this summer because the original K23 firebricks do not insulate well! 2nd one works SOOOO much better and even with using a pre made element, expensive WiFi PID, etc, it was still 1/3 the price of a factory built unit and I have a 27" x 7" x 6" chamber.

ProCut is VERY forgiving temperature wise, but a kiln is still your best bet! It will also help you be able to judge temperatures better when you can see what the steel actually looks like at 1500, 1600, 1400, etc in different lighting conditions! It's amazing at how "cool" the steel looks; most people doing it by eye overshoot the mark by a lot!

That's a really good idea, maybe I'll try to find a way to build my own. Thanks for that!

Switching to Pop’s ProCut or 80crV2 would be better for heat treating in a forge.

The hardest part about using a forge to heat treat in is uniform heating, the tip always heats up faster than the rest of the blade.

Hoss

I've never heard of either of those, maybe I should take a step back and research the different metals available. I'll look in to those two for sure. Thanks!

 

[nicosteve]

For just monitoring temps you don't need a PID controller, just something like this "B07P8NWH67" (do a search on Amazon since we're not allowed to post direct links here).

Also go to the auberins webpage for PID controllers in the $40 to $50 range, unless you wish WiFi then the price in >$100 or so.

A TC will also be required, something like part number TC-K-KLN from the Auberins site... just found these on Amazon's site (B0CQTSTKYP) for the Ceramic Sheath and the TC is (B0CYSRGBF2) item numbers.

edit to add: For this drill a hole thru the side of the forge to insert the ceramic sheath to just inside the forge so it's not directly in the flame. Direct flame can break the ceramic sheath. Also, be sure to use a muffler tube to put the blade inside of so it's heated indirectly rather than direct in flame for more even heating. Ideally the ceramic sheath tip would be inside the muffler tube so the temp at the blade is what's measured. Not sure how long the ceramic sheath will last since a portion will be exposed to the flame.

Ken, im looking into the muffler tube. Im thinking a 330 stainless tube would be best, do you agree with that? It says max temp of 2000f. Or do you think 304 ss at 1600f is sufficient?

 

[Ken H>]

It really doesn't matter much what metal is used for a muffler tube - it's going to burn out over a few hundred uses anyway. Some faster than others. Thicker wall is better, takes longer to burn out. Remember, it's only used during HT cycles. A section of Sch 40 carbon steel pipe pulled from scrap pile is just fine. If none is in scrap pile, a hardware store will have a 2" black iron they will cut to length. Perhaps even 2-1/2" pipe.

For sure building your own HT oven is the way to go. That's one reason I wouldn't put much money in the forge - if you stay with knifemaking it won't be long before you'll be building the oven and the HT forge won't be used. It can still be used for forging just fine, and I like the temperature indication for forging.

 

[vikingGoalie]

Good point. My thought was that PIDs are about the same price (for just the PID) and have the added capabilities if somebody wants to control their forge down the line, but I suppose not everybody wants to deal with the extra wiring and programming (not that there's much) that you need in order to get the PID just to monitor temps. In that case, just a basic K-Type capable thermometer/monitor is more than adequate.

I will add though, it's not a bad idea for any knifemaker who wants to do their own heat treat to get familiar with how PID controllers work and program.

Here's the link to the Tyrell video btw:

I followed that video when I built mine. Very happy with the end result. The "U" you make to bypass the main propane flow, I used a local hydraulic hose shop and got a short one made to accomplish that. Thought it was easier then trying to get all the fittings to match up perfectly.