Recommendation? Looking For Hydraulic Press SAFETY Recommendations

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RegulusKnife&Tool

Joined
Apr 3, 2026
Messages
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Hello, long time lurker of the forum.

I've spent quite a bit of time searching online, including old Bladeforums threads, and I've been surprised by how little information I can find about safely operating a hydraulic forging press.
There are plenty of videos showing presses in action and how to use them and many discussions about building them, but very few resources focused specifically on safety.

A little ago, I got excited and jumped on an opportunity to purchase a used 12-ton Coal Ironworks press from a retiring smith without doing all the research I should have beforehand. Since then, Google, Reddit, and various internet articles have painted an alarming picture: hydraulic injection injuries, failed hoses, hot projectiles, shop fires, crushed and amputated fingers, and more.

At this point, I've pretty well scared myself out of using the press, and I'm hoping some experienced press users can provide practical advice - not just for me, but for other smiths who may be searching for the same information.

One area I've already looked into, and think I have a good strategy for, is protecting myself from the hydraulic system. Based on advice from Reddit and other sources, my current plan includes regularly inspecting hoses and fittings, checking for leaks before use, protecting hoses from hot scale and slag, and using sleeves or guards where appropriate to help mitigate pinhole leak risks or blowouts. Those precautions have helped ease my concerns about the hydraulic components.

However, another topic that came up repeatedly was the possibility of hot projectiles from cracked workpieces or damaged dies, material being ejected at high velocity during pressing operations, and tongs slipping or being pinched and causing hand injuries.
I can see ways to reduce tong-related risks by using appropriately sized tongs with longer narrower reins that I can't get my fingers in-between and maintaining good control of the work.

The projectile risk is what I'm now struggling to wrap my head around.
The advice I've encountered so far seems to be to avoid loose tooling, keep dies and tooling in good condition, forge at high temperatures - never below a dull red, and pay close attention to workpiece and die alignment.
But, I'd love to hear from people with real-world experience.

For those of you who regularly use hydraulic forging presses some general questions:
  • What specific practices do you follow to stay safe?
  • Do you use any kind of blast shield, metal mesh curtain, or physical barrier to protect your body from a projectile just in case? If not, why not?
  • Have you ever accidentally created a projectile while forging?
  • Have you personally been injured, or known someone who was injured, while operating a forging press?
  • In your opinions, how common is material ejection for presses in actual practice?
  • If you were initially nervous about operating a press, how did you become comfortable with it?
  • Any other practical advise for using hydraulic presses that you think would be helpful for people interested in using a press?
And since the debate inevitably comes up, which do you consider safer for the operator—a hydraulic press, a power hammer, or neither, and why?
I know there are at least a few smiths that consider hydraulic presses to be an unacceptably risky tool for their shop and instead opt for a power hammer but I'm not entirely sure why.

I'm fully aware that every piece of shop equipment carries significant risk. I'm comfortable with all my other shop equipment: Induction forge, 2x72 belt grinder, heat treating oven, arc welder, drill press, angle grinder, various powered saws, but this hydraulic press is giving me pause.
Maybe a hydraulic press simply isn't the right tool for someone who can't get comfortable around it.
That said, I'd really appreciate hearing practical first hand experience from those of you who know what you're doing.

Hopefully this thread can also become a useful resource for others in the future.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 
I expect the main thing is to be sure you keep your hands 'n fingers from between the dies while operating the press {g}. I've not all that much experience with a press compared to most folks here, but never really considered them all that dangerous PROVIDED common sense for safety is considered. No, I've never created a projectile while forging.

BTW, unless they've changed the size of the cylinder on that "12" ton press, it's only a 9 ton press. I purchased one a few yrs ago thinking I was getting a 12 ton press, but my press had a 3" cylinder which at the spec'd pressure is only 12 tons. When I called and asked about it they were pretty dismissive of the false advertising - said "it works doesn't it"? They said the press was originally designed with a 3-1/2" cylinder, but found that size was a good bit more expensive than the 3" so that's what they used knowing it was only 9 ton.

After I installed a pressure gauge (every press SHOULD have a pressure gauge) I found I was only getting 8 tons because the pressure peaked around 2200 psi. Spec for the press is 2550 psi. I have since changed my 3" cylinder to a 4" cylinder and with the 2200 psi I"m getting a a bit over 12 ton. 2550 psi would give 16 ton, but that's over stressing the frame.

With the small dies provided with the press, the 9 ton does a decent job so you'll have LOTS of fun.

Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
I expect the main thing is to be sure you keep your hands 'n fingers from between the dies while operating the press {g}. I've not all that much experience with a press compared to most folks here, but never really considered them all that dangerous PROVIDED common sense for safety is considered. No, I've never created a projectile while forging.

BTW, unless they've changed the size of the cylinder on that "12" ton press, it's only a 9 ton press. I purchased one a few yrs ago thinking I was getting a 12 ton press, but my press had a 3" cylinder which at the spec'd pressure is only 12 tons. When I called and asked about it they were pretty dismissive of the false advertising - said "it works doesn't it"? They said the press was originally designed with a 3-1/2" cylinder, but found that size was a good bit more expensive than the 3" so that's what they used knowing it was only 9 ton.

After I installed a pressure gauge (every press SHOULD have a pressure gauge) I found I was only getting 8 tons because the pressure peaked around 2200 psi. Spec for the press is 2550 psi. I have since changed my 3" cylinder to a 4" cylinder and with the 2200 psi I"m getting a a bit over 12 ton. 2550 psi would give 16 ton, but that's over stressing the frame.

With the small dies provided with the press, the 9 ton does a decent job so you'll have LOTS of fun.

Ken H>
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I appreciate the feedback Ken! I'm really hoping I can get over my jitters. I don't have the ability to work in my shop all day long and the allure of pattern welded steel is strong!

I'm aware it is only actually being a 8-9ton press (actually probably form one of your previous posts now that I think about it!) and I would have been pissed if I had paid full price for a new press and not known. Fortunately, I got such a steep discount buying it from a retiring smith that I can't be mad about it; my price-per-ton ratio on it is great. Which is also why I'm frustrated that I'm now so skittish around it since I got a killer deal. Coal Ironworks seems like generally a good company and they have fantastic support for their products, even buying used they are more than happy to support their users, but I also don't like when companies play games with their published specifications to try and compete.

Everything I've heard is that it is still a great press and at a far better price point than most anything else on the market short of building your own (which is even riskier business). I don't think many smiths would scoff at it being "underpowered" if the company was transparent about it.

I also don't like that the press doesn't have a pressure gauge on it from the manufacturer. I have no way of verifying that the press has actually depressurized after I turn it off and I could see it being a good risk control measure keeping an eye out for a sudden changes in pressure. Do you happen to have a pressure gauge you could recommend for the press? No worries if not, I'm sure I could find one.
 
Since they don't allow us to post direct links to supplies, here the item number of a pressure gauge that should workk: B0DB52QN66 just copy 'n paste that item number in the Amazon search bar and the gauge will pop up. That's the 3,000 psi gauge, but a 4,000 is the same price at $10. Here's the one I ordered back in 2021 for $11 but it's now $20. B00FBKT9P6

You'll also need a Tee (B07XXK314H)and reducer - 2 for $9, or B0FYN574MT at 5 for $8.50 - either should work.
 
Ken H> said:
Since they don't allow us to post direct links to supplies, here the item number of a pressure gauge that should workk: B0DB52QN66 just copy 'n paste that item number in the Amazon search bar and the gauge will pop up. That's the 3,000 psi gauge, but a 4,000 is the same price at $10. Here's the one I ordered back in 2021 for $11 but it's now $20. B00FBKT9P6

You'll also need a Tee (B07XXK314H)and reducer - 2 for $9, or B0FYN574MT at 5 for $8.50 - either should work.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much Ken!
 
I've got a bit of experience with both and definitely consider a hammer more dangerous than a press. As long as you are paying attention to the right things, a press is slow enough to be relatively safe. One thing I'd add to what Ken said is that as long as you don't try to max out the squishing, you shouldn't have much risk of making a projectile. You get into that risk if you try to see how much 12-tons can squish and the piece is tall enough to kick out or break.
 
weo said:
I've got a bit of experience with both and definitely consider a hammer more dangerous than a press. As long as you are paying attention to the right things, a press is slow enough to be relatively safe. One thing I'd add to what Ken said is that as long as you don't try to max out the squishing, you shouldn't have much risk of making a projectile. You get into that risk if you try to see how much 12-tons can squish and the piece is tall enough to kick out or break.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the input weo!
I've heard "small bites" are the way to go.
Primary use case is pattern welded billets or breaking down thicker material for other blacksmithing projects. Maybe axe and hammer heads down the road.
 
Welcome Regulus.

A press used sensibly is a safe tool. I think hammering nails in framing a house is more dangerous.

Use common sense about the size of items being pressed and how they are held.

Fire is the most likely concern with a press.
Mixing 2000°F hot metal with hydraulic hoses or other flammable materials is a bad combination.
It is a good practice to make a shield of some sorts that covers the hoses from accidental contact with a hot billet or falling slag.
Clear the floor and counters around the press of any flammable materials - propane tanks and hoses, gas cans and solvents, paper and cardboard, wood scraps, etc. If it isn't there it can't catch fire.

Electrical cords and air hoses also don't like hot billets. Move them out of the way or shield them.

General safety - Clear the floor of objects that you can trip over. Check things that hang down from above or stick out from benches/tables/shelves. Sweep the floor to get rid of dirt and slag. Slips are as bad as falls.

Take your time!!! It is tempting to think that you need to run to the press and start squishing a billet as fast as possible. While a long delay isn't god, the billet stays hot plenty long enough to move slowly and safely.

Don't try to make the press do what it isn't made for. Don't try and press cold things to bend or shape them. That can make something break and send a part flying.

Don't try to work a billet too tall, long, heavy. If you are struggling to control it it becomes a safety issue.

Kiss blocks are wise to control over pressing. They are a block that sets where the press stops moving down. They control how thick the billet will be. Most new-user issues are from over pressing and the billet falling apart.

Don't try to do too much in one heat. When the pressing slows down or te billet cools past dull red - put it back in the forge. In the same way, let it soak long enough to assure that the middle is just as hot as the outside of the billet. This is especially important in making stacked damascus and doing canisters.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Welcome Regulus.

A press used sensibly is a safe tool. I think hammering nails in framing a house is more dangerous.

Use common sense about the size of items being pressed and how they are held.

Fire is the most likely concern with a press.
Mixing 2000°F hot metal with hydraulic hoses or other flammable materials is a bad combination.
It is a good practice to make a shield of some sorts that covers the hoses from accidental contact with a hot billet or falling slag.
Clear the floor and counters around the press of any flammable materials - propane tanks and hoses, gas cans and solvents, paper and cardboard, wood scraps, etc. If it isn't there it can't catch fire.

Electrical cords and air hoses also don't like hot billets. Move them out of the way or shield them.

General safety - Clear the floor of objects that you can trip over. Check things that hang down from above or stick out from benches/tables/shelves. Sweep the floor to get rid of dirt and slag. Slips are as bad as falls.

Take your time!!! It is tempting to think that you need to run to the press and start squishing a billet as fast as possible. While a long delay isn't god, the billet stays hot plenty long enough to move slowly and safely.

Don't try to make the press do what it isn't made for. Don't try and press cold things to bend or shape them. That can make something break and send a part flying.

Don't try to work a billet too tall, long, heavy. If you are struggling to control it it becomes a safety issue.

Kiss blocks are wise to control over pressing. They are a block that sets where the press stops moving down. They control how thick the billet will be. Most new-user issues are from over pressing and the billet falling apart.

Don't try to do too much in one heat. When the pressing slows down or te billet cools past dull red - put it back in the forge. In the same way, let it soak long enough to assure that the middle is just as hot as the outside of the billet. This is especially important in making stacked damascus and doing canisters.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input Stacy!
It really helps getting a comparison about just how risky you think it is as someone who has more experience.
This is all very practical advise, makes a lot of sense, and I'm starting to see a pattern in the feedback.

I have started planning out a steel guard to go between the areas of the dies and the hoses - there is sleeving on the Coal Ironworks press to protect the hoses from abrasion and provide "limited" protection to the operator from a burst but they are definitely not rated for fire or heat protection and the hoses are quite exposed.

I'll need to start looking into kiss block designs. I've seen guys just use metal blocks resting in the press frame and they put spacers of like 1/8" thick mild steel on top of the blocks to adjust the height but the unsecured aspect gives me the willies. I'm thinking maybe individual sets of blocks wide blocks with different heights that can sit in the frame of the press with strong magnet embedded in them to ensure they don't shift around while using the press - or maybe blocks that are welded with flanges on the sides so they can "wrap" around the lower die. Is it safe to assume that kiss blocks should be made out of softer steel than the dies to prevent them from chipping or cracking a die?
 
Some kiss blocks are built into the lower or upper die. This is common when you always draw a billet to, say, 1/4".
Others are just a block or bar of metal with "ears" that sit on the sides of the main die. Some sit on each side of the die post. Thereare a dozen ways to skin this cat. I have seen folks use double sided tape.

Here are some ideas.

kiss blocks for press - Search Videos

Watch videos instantly on Bing—enjoy direct playback, discover related clips, and dive into trending content all in one place.
www.bing.com www.bing.com

kiss blocks for press - Search Videos

Watch videos instantly on Bing—enjoy direct playback, discover related clips, and dive into trending content all in one place.
www.bing.com www.bing.com
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Some kiss blocks are built into the lower or upper die. This is common when you always draw a billet to, say, 1/4".
Others are just a block or bar of metal with "ears" that sit on the sides of the main die. Some sit on each side of the die post. Thereare a dozen ways to skin this cat. I have seen folks use double sided tape.

Here are some ideas.

kiss blocks for press - Search Videos

Watch videos instantly on Bing—enjoy direct playback, discover related clips, and dive into trending content all in one place.
www.bing.com www.bing.com

kiss blocks for press - Search Videos

Watch videos instantly on Bing—enjoy direct playback, discover related clips, and dive into trending content all in one place.
www.bing.com www.bing.com
Click to expand...
Thank you so much Stacy!
 
RegulusKnife&Tool said:
the unsecured aspect gives me the willies.
Click to expand...
While it's good to have a safe respect for the potential dangers of machines, it seems to me as if you might have a bit much of the willies over this issue.
Unless you are trying to oversquish something, the press is moving slow enough that you really don't need to worry about it kicking things out unexpectedly.
 
weo said:
While it's good to have a safe respect for the potential dangers of machines, it seems to me as if you might have a bit much of the willies over this issue.
Unless you are trying to oversquish something, the press is moving slow enough that you really don't need to worry about it kicking things out unexpectedly.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the reality check. This thread as well as other input I'm getting from smiths is building a much more grounded view of the risks. I'm for sure over thinking and overly worried about it. Instead of jumping on the knifemaking and blacksmithing forums to get input from people who have experience I made the mistake of starting with Google and it painted the most horrifying picture. My initial reaction was probably the same kind of doom spiral that leads people to not fly on air planes after looking up statistics on crashes or leads people to think they have some exotic disease when they just have a headache.

Right now my plan is to move forward and use the darn tool. I have a pressure gauge, fittings, and mobile steel workbench on order. I'm also sketching up my plan for a slag shield between the hoses and the working area as well as a couple other minor modifications to my shop and setup to make sure I am setting myself up for success. I think all there is left really is to get over it and press some hot steel!

Though, if any other forum users want to comment and add their 2 cents to this thread that would still be appreciated. As I said in my opening I struggled to find much discussion on the topic and I'm hoping the all powerful google algorithm will pick up on this thread and help other smiths avoid the doom spiral I fell into.
 
You'll be fine.


This thread reminds me of a fellow who came here many years ago. Some may remember him. I'll leave his name out if the post.
He was a very intelligent engineer. Money wasn't a problem. He researched knifemaking and fell in love with it. Bought about $10,000 in equipment and supplies, and built a nice little starter shop.
Being a scientific person, he looked up every online post and article about knifemaking ... especially the safety things to know. As he dug deeper in reading on the subject he read posts from people telling the dangers of being killed by the equipment and poisoned or incapacitated by the particles, vapors, fumes, etc. He worked himself into a panic, believing he might endanger his health, his wife, and his infant son with transmitted dusts or vapors from his shop.
I talked to him extensively about how the articles about the dust from a grinder belt, wood, metal etc. was not a worry with normal safety precautions and good ventilation. I sent him a good PAPR unit. He was calmed for a while until he started reading things that said the chromium and other alloys in many knife steels, was extremely toxic. As a former research chemist, I explained that there is chromium ... and there is chromium ... and then there is chromium - Explaining that the metallic-bonded chromium in steel is neither tri-valent (a harmless ion and in most vitamin pills) nor is it hexa-valent chromium (an extremely toxic ion). I couldn't convince him that grinding knives was safe and absorption from metallic-bonded alloys was not the same as ingested toxic chemicals with the same elements in the compounds.
I pointed out that what you find online is often wrong because people posting don't understand the chemistry involved, or they are just quoting something they read which was not true. (Back then, people generally believed the info found on the internet to be true. Good luck today!) You regularly read posts right here on Bladeforums stating that cyano-acrylic resin is deadly poison (it isn't, and has no cyanide in it. They use it in surgery. See more examples below). That does not stop people from stating it as a fact.
The fellow I am talking about became almost paranoid about knifemaking dangers and sold all his equipment and supplies for pennies on the dollar to protect him and his family. I bought a good bit of it.


My everyday explanation in discussions about toxicity claims is:
We have all eaten almonds. The amygdalin in them releases cyanide when chewed. It is the same cyanide that is used in the gas chamber, but the amount is so small that it is harmless. The stone fruit from nectarines, peaches, apricots, and almonds are all related, and all have amygdalin. Of the edible flesh fruits - apricots, nectarines, and peaches - apricots are the highest in amygdalin. None of these nuts will kill you if you eat them, unless you ate hundreds of them. They don't taste good, anyway.
Almond flesh isn't edible. Almonds are of two types - Sweet and Bitter. Sweet almonds are low in amygdalin (and taste delicious), so you can eat all the sweet almonds all you want (I love smoked Blue Diamond almonds). Bitter almond isn't eaten ... because it is very bitter. It has a high concentration of amygdalin. A couple dozen of the nuts would send you to the hospital, and 50 could send you to the morgue. The main point here is related/similar does not mean equal.

Other types of falsely attributed posts are regularly found in books and online saying these and many other things are deadly toxic:
Grinding MOP and shell- It's basically organic limestone dust, no cyanide at all. All dust is bad to breathe, but calcium carbonate isn't toxic, it's what is in a Tums.
Galvanized metal fumes - Not good to breathe any fumes, but "metal fume fever" is not deadly. Breathe enough of most fumes and you'll not feel well. Zinc oxide is harmless, or every lifeguard and bronzed bikini queen would be dead. You can die of sun poisoning, but not from suntan lotion poisoning.
And before someone cites Paw Paw Wilson's death - he died of pneumonia caused by influenza and lung damage from heavy smoke in his unventilated shop, not zinc poisoning. His is a perfect case of doing a search and getting hundreds of wrong answers stating something not true.
Wood dust - It may make some people itch, but it is rarely poisonous. Don't breathe any type of dust . Wear a mask or PAPR! (wish I knew that when I was a teenager -see peanut story below)
Poinsettia plants - even some modern medical books will say poinsettia is a deadly poison. It is just a folk tale. It might give you a tummy ache if you at a salad of them, but you would not get poisoned. The source of the attribution was a botanist who was putting the newly discovered Poinsettia in a taxonomy book and had heard a story that a baby had eaten a leaf and died within hours. The story was just a wives tale, but he wrote in the book, " Caution - Deadly - One leaf will kill a child". With such a warning, no one ever tested it to see. The plant was unknown to the US medical community, so they went with the botany book and listed it as toxic in their poison books. It was almost 100 years later before anyone actually checked and found it wasn't toxic.

Fun Facts:
25% of the water in California is used to grow almonds
75% of the honeybees in the USA are used to pollinate almonds.
80% of the worlds almonds, and all of the almonds eaten in the USA are grown on 13% of the land in California (1.25 million acres).
They grow a million pounds of almonds per acre every year (over a billion pounds/year). To put that in perspective - If you put all the almonds grown in California in one year into a giant barrel ... and every human on the planet scooped up a handful of those almonds ... the barrel would still have almonds in it.
Almonds, apricots, peaches, nectarines, cashews, pecans, pistachios, walnuts, coconuts, and many other popular "nuts" - are not nuts. They are a drupe. People call them a nut for simplicity. Nut is a lot classier to say that " drupe". I can just hear the vendor at the ballpark yelling, "Candy, Popcorn, salted drupes" ... I say, NUTS to that idea.
Nuts are the hard shell fruit of a tree containing one seed. Drupes have stone fruit that grow inside the flesh of their fruit. The stone holds one seed.
Peanuts, water chestnuts, and pine nuts are not nuts, either.
Peanuts don't grow on a bush/vine, nor do they grow on the roots like mist people say. They are actually ground peas. The two plants are almost the same, except for a mutation that changed the way the flower of the peanut grows after pollination. After pollination, a hormone is secreted which makes the ovary grow longer. Sort of an ovary erection. The ovary grows longer and longer until it hangs down like a vine, and keeps on growing until it penetrates the soil, where the seeds develop along the ovary tube. Every flower on the peanut plant sends out one of these "peanut vines", and each vine/ovary grows many underground pods, thus one plant can yield a lot of peanuts.

You don't "pick" peanuts, BTW. You pull up the whole plant and strip the pods off the ground vine, just like peas.
When harvesting peanuts at a friend's small farm near Waverly, VA, the biggest concern was the dust. It will choke you. We had to put wet bandannas over our nose and mouth. Before long the bandana was caked with mud. We would hose our faces off at the water truck and keep going. When you spit, you spit mud. It was the early fall, dead dry and hot. No one cared how miserable it was, you worked from before dawn until it was too dark to see. First we pulled the plants with a tractor and harrow rake, or a pitch fork, ... or by hand. You shook off as much dirt as possible and laid them in the rows to dry for a couple of weeks while praying for no rain. We had to get the peanuts up before rains came or they can rot or grow fungus. When dry enough, the pods were stripped by hand and dumped into bins. The bins were loaded in pickup trucks and went to the co-op in town. After removing the pods, the plants dried in the fields until we forked the peanut-hay onto trailers and trucks and took them to the barn on his farm and ours in Spring Grove. We stored them in the loft for our cattle to eat (he had hogs). Peanut pods we missed in harvest were a plus for the cows. You don't feed peanut hay to horses, BTW.
Pitching peanut-hay was even dustier than harvesting. It beat off a lot of the dust and sand, which made it better feed, but all that dust and sand rained down on you as you pitched the hay into the loft.
All this was back in the 60's when simple farmers didn't know about masks and respirators. We used tractors with harrow rakes along with pitch forks and strong backs to get them out of the ground and into the barn. Today, peanut harvesting looks like a NASA event, with GPS automated harvesters and fancy respirators.

To make this a knife post, when those harrow rakes broke, the pieces of the tines forged into great butchering knives. Probably low alloy steel between 1080 and 1095. I even forged a sword from one. I still have some from I brought from the farm in the forge today.
 
While we're talking about almonds, why do they call it almond milk? You can't milk an almond. It's because no one would buy it if they just called it what it is, nut juice. It's all about the marketing.
 
I have a Dake No.1 3-ton manual arbor press. And Dumont Minute Man steel cutting broaches. I was broaching a steel collar (the interior of it for a keyway) and showing my son the operation. I’ve done it many times using many broaches for different width/depth cuts on steel. One broach was “hanging up” and was getting difficult despite being clean, only starting to cut chips, cutting fluid and more pressure. I thought to myself maybe I’d hit an hard inclusion or it was “a little off-center.” Well, I pulled down gradually harder and harder and very very hard and the broach shot out like a missile. It could’ve seriously injured us, and sounded like an explosion. I didn’t even see the broach eject nor did we hear it slam into a wall behind us.i was genuinely shocked a small broach could make that sound. We weren’t wearing safety glasses, either.

Not having more than a 20-ton jack press and not using it for forging processes, I know enough now how serious it is to keep long(ish) vertical objects perfectly centered and if there’s more resistance than you expect - STOP.

But a broach isn’t red hot and malleable while under extreme pressure. I suspect the danger of forging is much less of a projectile danger…

—-
Incidentally, in the Army my soldiers and I once stood to the side of a 5-ton dump truck, the type having the exposed steel u-joint connection for the tranny shafts. I think all of them do. Well, while the truck was running and began pulling away, as we were chatting — BOOM! It exploded off the underside and shot right past our small crowd between our heads. An explosion and missile but with a loud whistle crack. Easily could’ve killed any of us. Today, whenever I drive or walk past any truck with the u-joint in sight, I think of that and admit it worries me a little.
 
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