Looking for inexpensive contact wheels

Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
65
In the process of making a 2 X 72 grinder. It's well on the way. Have access to a lathe and turned my own drive wheel. Help me out with a good source for an idler tracking wheel and a contact wheel.

I'm new to this knifemaking hobby and not sure how deep I will get into it so don't want to spend a fortune. Also if you only have one contact wheel, what diameter would you suggest?
 
some one suggested to me once that i should buy the 10 in wheel from grizzly, take to a machine shop and have them drill it and press a bearing in it. the total cost to do this would be maybe 130. to buy a ten each wheel with the bearing in it would cost around 308 so the difference is pretty big. some guys on here have made their wheels out of ply wood. got to be careful tho.... wouldnt want one of those to come apart on you at the speed

good luck

jake
 
Hi Friend,

You might want to check out http://www.sunray-inc.com/. Look at the Polyurethane-Covered Wheels in the "Shop Sunray" section. You can get an 8" x 2" wheel with bearings for about $75. You might find a suitable poly wheel for a drive wheel too. I'm fixing to try some large skate board wheels for idler wheels.

Good luck, Phil
 
hey Phil!

was curious have you tried those poly wheels? i was wondering how they are?

jake
 
So then the next question is what durometer to get? I have one of their drive wheels, I think I got 80 or maybe 90 durometer. Whichever one was the hardness of a golf ball.
 
yea you right that is the next question? as hard as a golf ball seems too hard to grind on... but i dont know.... i dont have a grinder yet..... wish i did tho

jake
 
I second SunRay. I've been using their urethane contact wheels for the custom platen I build for the KMG, and have also been using them on my personal platen for over a year. Personally, I like the urethane wheels better than rubber contact wheels. They have proven to be more durable than rubber wheels of the same durometer. The only thing you need to be aware of with SunRay is that they ARE NOT knifemakers, nor do they know anything about what we as knifemakers expect in a contact wheel. You must be detailed and very specific about the contact wheel(s) you order...if you don't specify every detail you want....you won't get it. I mention that because I have heard several stories from makers who where complaining that SunRay didn't do this or that with the wheel(s) they ordered and made statements such as "They (SunRay) should have known that!"
One last thing to be aware of is that SunRay is strictly a custom urethane contact wheel maker, which means they do not keep stock on hand, and when ordering from them, expect to wait for your order to be produced. Most of the time orders I place require a 3-6 weeks wait before I receive them. (if you contact them and ask, they will send you a small bead chain with samples of the various durometers they offer.) I normally purchase 70 durometer for knifemaking applications. And IF I'm doing a surface grinder belt conversion, I order 100 durometer.
 
I just wanted to say that I've used sunray contact wheels on my NWGS for two years now. They work great and Ive had no problems with them.

Matt

PS I have an 8"x2", 2 4"x2" and a 3"x2" that is my drive wheel. All 70 durometer.
 
I made a 5" wheel last winter from a poly covered wheel with the needle (sort of)
bearings in it. While it dosn't run as true as my bader or square wheel wheels
whenever I need a similar radius I run it, no problems. To actually use it to
hollow grind the durometer might be a bit stiff but for the $6 I have in it no
complaints.
Ken.
 
I've been looking for 8 to 10" contact wheels for a few weeks now, and the best deal and size I could find is this: http://www.accesscasters.com/8axs82-8-x-2-non-marking-wheel.aspx

I don't know how well it would work though. The hub width is larger than the surface width, but other than that, I asked the company and they said the durometer is 65a-75a, which is what most knifemakers want (says Tracy at USAknifemakers.com)
 
Ed, could you elaberate on what specifically we should ask for in ordering a wheel from Sunray. I remember a few complaints about the wheels not being balanced, what else should we be sure to specify?
 
Last edited:
In the process of making a 2 X 72 grinder. It's well on the way. Have access to a lathe and turned my own drive wheel. Help me out with a good source for an idler tracking wheel and a contact wheel.

I'm new to this knifemaking hobby and not sure how deep I will get into it so don't want to spend a fortune. Also if you only have one contact wheel, what diameter would you suggest?

Good thread.....I've also been thinking of building my own....and what I'm learning here is to research/plan and gather the parts BEFORE I get to the "well on the way" point. Thanks!!:thumbup:
 
As I mentioned in my previous post... you MUST be sure that you SPECIFY EVERYTHING when ordering a wheel from SungRay. I remember some folks who complained to me that the wheel(s) they got from SunRay were not balanced, and when I asked them if they had specified it, the response was "they should have known to do that!" No they shouldn't! SunRay IS NOT a maker of grinder contact wheels. Their primary business is small military contracts, mostly dealing with urethane "wheels" such as those used to support tracks on tanks, armored personnel carriers, etc. Therefore the standard wheel they make is not "trued", nor "balanced".....if you want precision beyond what they normally produce, you must specify it.

OK, when I order contact wheel(s) from SunRay, I give them the following information. This may not be all inclusive, so again, I strongly urge anyone ordering a wheel from them to carefully think it through and ensure you specify EVERY DETAIL of the specific contact wheel you want. If you forget something, or fail to specify something, its not their fault, and they will not take the wheel back.

Wheel Size: Up to 8" is standard stuff for them, larger than that gets more expensive. I generally order 1 1/2" and 3" smooth faced wheels for building "The Caffrey Platen" for the KMG.

Wheel Material: Urethane

Hardness: 70 durometer (or whatever hardness you desire) (they sent me a beaded chain with samples of all the various hardnesses they offer)

Wheel face type: Smooth or Serrated

Hub Material: Steel (heavier, but less expensive) OR Aluminum (lighter but more expensive)

Bearings: Both OD and ID (pay special attention to the ID, as this needs to match the size of the fastener that mounts the contact wheel to your tooling arm.)

Wheel Surface type: Flat or crowned

Wheel corners: Sharp/square corners or raduised.

Balance the wheel: If you want it balanced you MUST tell them, and it will cost you more for this operation. I've found that wheels of 6" or less most often do not require balancing. With wheels 8" and larger, I feel balancing is a must.

Any specific requirements for your application: Anything that might be unique or required for what you want to do with the wheel.

When you speak with Shane (or whomever you talk with at SunRay) take the time to go over all the details, and get to know the company. Once you understand that they do not build wheels for, nor know anything about a belt grinder, it will become evident that its in your best interests to be very specific and detailed. I find them very pleasant to deal with, and far less expensive than most who sell standard rubber contact wheels.

Finally, ASSUME NOTHING. These folks make load bearing wheels for a living, not contact wheels, it just so happens that we can use their product for our needs, and its up to each individual to provide FULL SPECIFICATIONS for the product we desire. Once we (at least I) understood that, SunRay became a much less expensive/higher quality source for my grinder contact wheels.
 
I just read an article yesterday on another forum ( I believe it was the blacksmith forum ) where under hard work this guy melted his contact wheel from sunray . He said once he slowed the machine down and reduced the heat build up he had no more problems . Just thought I would throw this out . Also , I did get grizzly's wheel yesterday , ran it and tested it , it was balanced and ran true .
 
8 incher because its easy and cheap to acquire from Sunray.
After grinding a bit you will want to get a 10 incher.
Chris
 
Midwest knifemakers site states that sunray wheels melt at 185 degrees . So for contact wheels remember to go slow and watch heat build up and you should be fine .
 
Back
Top