Looking for inexpensive contact wheels

I'm a bit confused about the melting issue. I just watched Don Fogg grind billets red hot from the forge on a belt grinder (rubber) prior to cutting and folding. No problem to the wheel. That metal was probably about 1500°, yet the rubber didn't melt. Rubber may have a higher melting point than polyurethane, but not that bloody high.

Seemingly, it would take a lot more than 185° heat in the piece your grinding for a heck of a long time for the contact wheel to actually melt. I just can't imagine building up that kind of prolonged heat grinding myself.

I don't know who the guy was on another forum who had some difficulties, but I do know the guys on this one who use them professionally successfully. Thanks for the intel Ed (and Tracy)!
 
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well i dont know about the heat issue phil, although i have heard about it before on here but what you saying does make alot of sense. i was just thinking if the 8 inch poly is $75 and you can buy the grizzly 10 inch for $65 and have it modded its still the better deal.

jake
 
10" does seem like it would be nice to have. What modifications will the wheel need? Balancing, bearings, machining for the bearings and press fitting them. I guess if one has them means to do that it would be no problem, but if you have to hire it out, seems like it will add up.
 
10" grizzly wheel, bearings from the bearing store on ebay, machined for bearing pockets at a local machine shop, and bearings pressed in, total bill with the shipping came to $120.00
 
$120 is alot cheaper thana the 08 beaumont wheel... i wonder if there is a real tangible difference between the two?

jake
 
Farmer Phil said:
I'm a bit confused about the melting issue. I just watched Don Fogg grind billets red hot from the forge on a belt grinder (rubber) prior to cutting and folding. No problem to the wheel. That metal was probably about 1500°, yet the rubber didn't melt. Rubber may have a higher melting point than polyurethane, but not that bloody high.

Seemingly, it would take a lot more than 185° heat in the piece your grinding for a heck of a long time for the contact wheel to actually melt. I just can't imagine building up that kind of prolonged heat grinding myself.

I don't know who the guy was on another forum who had some difficulties, but I do know the guys on this one who use them professionally successfully. Thanks for the intel Ed (and Tracy)!
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Phil , I will sit and hog out blades for 4 hrs. non-stop and the grinder only stops to replace belts . Things can get hot .
 
Go for ten inch, especialy if you are going to be grinding thiner stock (1/8") The extra height you will gain from the bigger diameter can be very handy.

Many moons ago I turned my wheels from 2" thick PVC. I centred the main wheel in an 8" diameter baking pan I stole from the missus. I used a two part pourable rubber mix called "flexane 80" to fill the half inch void between the wheel and the cake tin. When it cured I cut the tin away, dressed the rubber and hey presto one contact wheel.

Peter
 
Del Raso Knives said:
Go for ten inch, especialy if you are going to be grinding thiner stock (1/8") The extra height you will gain from the bigger diameter can be very handy.

Many moons ago I turned my wheels from 2" thick PVC. I centred the main wheel in an 8" diameter baking pan I stole from the missus. I used a two part pourable rubber mix called "flexane 80" to fill the half inch void between the wheel and the cake tin. When it cured I cut the tin away, dressed the rubber and hey presto one contact wheel.

Peter
Click to expand...

So are you still using this wheel? I have lathe access and pvc.
 
yes guys I'm still using it, 16 years and only changed the bearings once. Also a few layers of masking tape on the face of your rubber will greatly reduce wear. Much easier to replace the tape than redress your contact wheel.

Find a large industrial plastics supplier and rather than sheet, ask what diameter extrusions they stock. Buy a slice off some round stock and save yourself a heap of work. If they don't have PVC, some of the high density nylons will also work. Ask their techs which ones create a good bond with rubber and Bob's your sister's Aunt.:thumbup:

Peter
 
"and Bob's your sister's Aunt"

um what?

did you put it on a lathe after you put the rubber on it?
 
Beochie, the contact wheel has a pulley centred and mounted directly onto the right hand side. It is driven by a "V" belt comming off the pulley on my motor. I dressed the face while it was running (without a grinding belt) using some 40gt paper glued to a piece of timber. I clamped another piece of timber to my grinders work table to act as a fence/guide to make sure I was dressing the wheel square. If you use your lathe you may find it better to sand the surface rather than try to cut it. I'm fairly sure thats how the pros do it as well.

Peter
 
Greetings folks. I'm new to the forum but thought I'd chime in on a great find. Now please don't shun me too bad for this but I just couldn't shell out $200 for a 12" contact wheel. I found a site that has all kinds and sizes. The name of the site is called AliExpress. I bought a 12" wheel with 6202 bearings, 80 durometer rubber, and dynamically ballanced for $83 shipped. It took less than 2 weeks to arive from china, yes china. I know but it works awsome, 0 vibration. I've been making knives for about a year now and don't have much of a bankroll to work with so I save every chance I get.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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