looking for input on checkering mother of pearl

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

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Dec 5, 2013
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Like the title says, I need to learn how to checker MOP. I have not worked with MOP at all yet so obviously I'm jumping right into the deep end here. Oh...I should mention that I also want to set gold or platinum pins in the checkering as well so, any additional techniques for that would be awesome!

If I manage not to screw this project up, I'll share when I'm done.

Thanks everyone.

Bob
 
I would think you can use gun checkering tools on pearl. I have never checkered it. I know that it can be engraved with hand gravers.
Pearl is hard and brittle, so you have to be careful pinning it.
 
I talked to Johnny Stout and John Horrigan about it today. Got a couple different perspectives. Johnny said he's never actually done the checkering but, Richard Rogers told him that he's done it on the surface grinder with a wheel dressed down to a point. John says he cuts it by hand with a Nicholson 3-sided file under a microscope. Sounds like I can pretty much do whatever. This will be interesting.

Bob
 
I tried checkering one time with a file. I understand that the human brain and body are capable of extraordinary feats, the likes of which are unimaginable and seemingly impossible until proven otherwise. But still, producing even checkering with a file has got to be the hardest thing anyone can ever do. A man that can achieve this has transcended, and is no longer a human.
 
If there is any radius/hafting to your scales, you can't use a surface grinder to checker. It'll only work for flat scales. It's also, highly obvious to anybody that knows anything about fine checkering, that it was "cheated" with a machine. Like real engraving, there are certain things, that can't be duplicated by machinery yet. Even with advanced VMCs. Like engraving, real checkering is a "push" cut, albeit with a fine riffler like cutting tool.

The best way to do this, is to do it like you do gun-stock checkering, with a checkering tool. You can use a checkering file or a 3-square file, but this HIGHLY limits your ability to do anything other than checker the entire face. Tight curves and radiuses get very tricky, and actual diamond sectional checkering is impossible.

Pearl is very easy to checker with standard stock checkering tools for wood. If this is something you're interested in doing more of in the future, in more complicated layouts, I'd really recommend you look into doing it the correct way. A set of checkering tools is not very expensive, look for them on Brownell's site, and watch some youtube videos on checkering stocks. It's exactly the same.

Edit: I can see how this reads as snarky, it's not my intent. Bob, I know the kind of work you do, and think I have an idea the kind of work you're striving toward, so I hope this reads as constructive as I intend it. Real checkering takes some practice, but it's tedious more than hard, and the results, are unmistakable. Unless this is a one-off, it'll be highly worth the investment in time. The cost of tools is marginal. Let us know what you end up with, cheers!
 
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I've done some checkering on wood with a set of checkering tools (not the checkering file)
I recomend that you first practice on wood before working on mop.
I enjoy the proces of checkering, it is slow and presice
 
I have done it a couple times. Use a #1 or #2 three square (triangle) file and/or knife edge file. Go slow. Diamond files work well on MOP, but you have to rinse them off regularly.
Finish with very fine files, like a #4 or #6

If you hand buff the cuts, use a knife edge felt block and white rouge. A final buff on a 4" loose/soft linen/cotton wheel charged with white rouge will finish the job.
You can buff with a 1" loose buff on a flex shaft if you have that skill.


TIPS:
Mark the pattern on the MOP with a fine tip sharpie or soft pencil. Once you have it as desired, then cut the lines with light passes of the file. If it is good, file them deeper slowly, going over all of the cuts and repeating several times as the cuts get deeper. Don't try to file a line to full depth and then move to the next.

You can use a jewelers saw to cut MOP ( It will ruin a few blades, but works. Go slow
You can mark the lines with the jewelers saw, too.
 
All right, now we're talkin'. To be clear, I am talking about the significantly larger checkering that will often have gold pins inset into the flat of each check. John said there is another, fancier, name for it but, in looking at most of the purveyors' websites, they all call it checkering.

I appreciate any and all assistance in this. Javan, I didn't take anything you said a snarky; you know I care about doing things right. Stacy, I was confident you would have some insight on this. I am glad that the surface grinder is not the way to go because I don't own a tangent wheel dresser and they're pricey. Of course, my riffler files probably cost just as much so hopefully they'll be good for more than one use on pearl.

I am thinking about making a WIP out of this project. It's a all new pattern with a Persian flair and my own Damascus.

Thanks

Bob
 
You don't necessarily need a special dressing tool to do form grinding. It can be approximated with a Norbide stick by hand, and then trued up with a diamond lap set on an angle.
 
ooo so checkering but not like we all have thought that looks liek a reall hand cut with file or surface grinder deal i have nothingk to add but will love to see what you come up with
 
Stacy, being you're a jeweler, do you have any thoughts on wire size for the pins? I'm thinking 20ga in diamonds about 5/32" spacing.

Bob
 
What you are attempting with the pins is called "pique" work.
 
Well, you probably need to know what's going on in Shakira's world and the soccer business to expand your horizons...
Perhaps it will pique your interest!
 
That photo is exactly the style I did - I called it a goldfield dagger. Mine had mokume bolsters

It is best to start with slightly thicker MOP than what you want on the finished scale.
Do the grooves so the diamonds are a tad smaller than desired, and then sand and polish the surface down to make it exact. This will remove any bearding along the channels.

20 gauge is good for that size diamond pattern.
It is simpler to drill the holes in the MOP and then use a tiny chamfer bit ( I use a setting burr) to put a small flare to the holes. Melt each pin with a jewelers torch so it has a tiny ball on the end. The ball will sit in the chamfer and when the surface is polished along with the pins, they will look like you beaded each in place.
A better trick to get perfect beading is to take a piece of 1/8" steel and drill about ten of the same size holes as the ones in the MOP. IIRC, I used a .90mm drill bit.
Chamfer the holes with the samburr as the MOP. Bead the wire ends with a torch as mentioned. Slip the wires in the steel plate and use a lubricated cup burr to bead and seat the ball ends. This will yield all pins having the exact same size balls and they all will match in height. You can even polish the beads in the plate (I like a soft bristle wheel in a flex shaft). Push the pin out from the back side and repeat. It takes a little while, but the final result in the MOP is perfection.

Clean the wires and MOP and slip all wires in place. Check that they all seat right. When everything is right, turn the scale over and set on a piece of glass. Flow thin or medium CA on the back so it can wick down the wires. Let sit for 30 seconds, then turn over and double check that everything is tight. Set on something that won't push the wires and let cure overnight. Clip off, file, and sand the wires flush with the back of the MOP.
 
Yes, that style of work, can definitely be done with a file, or SG, although the SG limits you, as is the case of that knife, to flat work. If you're going to give the handle any contour, however slight, and you want the depth of the grooves to be equal, which is important, you'll still have to do it by hand.

Course single cut files or rifflers will work best because of having more room for loading. Pearl turns to powder as it's worked, and can load up the teeth quick, carding and chalking the files can help, but it works very easily.

Bear in mind with pearl that even though it appears to have all this clear "depth" on top of it, you need to work all your thickness from the back, as absolutely close as you can, because anything you take off the top can cause it to go opaque, or milky, and look like shit.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
That photo is exactly the style I did - I called it a goldfield dagger. Mine had mokume bolsters

It is best to start with slightly thicker MOP than what you want on the finished scale.
Do the grooves so the diamonds are a tad smaller than desired, and then sand and polish the surface down to make it exact. This will remove any bearding along the channels.

20 gauge is good for that size diamond pattern.
It is simpler to drill the holes in the MOP and then use a tiny chamfer bit ( I use a setting burr) to put a small flare to the holes. Melt each pin with a jewelers torch so it has a tiny ball on the end. The ball will sit in the chamfer and when the surface is polished along with the pins, they will look like you beaded each in place.
A better trick to get perfect beading is to take a piece of 1/8" steel and drill about ten of the same size holes as the ones in the MOP. IIRC, I used a .90mm drill bit.
Chamfer the holes with the samburr as the MOP. Bead the wire ends with a torch as mentioned. Slip the wires in the steel plate and use a lubricated cup burr to bead and seat the ball ends. This will yield all pins having the exact same size balls and they all will match in height. You can even polish the beads in the plate (I like a soft bristle wheel in a flex shaft). Push the pin out from the back side and repeat. It takes a little while, but the final result in the MOP is perfection.

Clean the wires and MOP and slip all wires in place. Check that they all seat right. When everything is right, turn the scale over and set on a piece of glass. Flow thin or medium CA on the back so it can wick down the wires. Let sit for 30 seconds, then turn over and double check that everything is tight. Set on something that won't push the wires and let cure overnight. Clip off, file, and sand the wires flush with the back of the MOP.
Click to expand...


Good info about balling the ends of the wire with a torch Stacy. I've always peened them and cleaned them up with a cup bur, but the method you describe has GOT to be faster with fine metals.
 
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