Looking for Input on Grind Geometry

I am no expert at all but I have a longer thinner blade much like your "Leaf Blade" and I have noticed it cuts like a thinner blade but remains rigid and solid feeling .I would love to get ahold of one of yours but I might request a wider longer blade. I have come to like a nice wide blade like two inches with a slightly higher grind and a sharper taper on the back to aid piercing.Overall a great knife and I`m sure a wonderful user let us know when you get to cranking them out.
 
Man I sure wish I could add some insight, but the blade looks good, I like it.

I could really only tell you more if I were to handle it. (I'm not asking for one, or asking to borrow it, I don't have any credentials for reviewing the design.)

I can tell in hand how well I like how it cuts, but from the looks, you've got a winner with that design.

Thanks for the pictures.
 
I hit a litle of that, not as pronounced, in the trail knives. It's been something I've avoided, but... damn, dude- that's a thought.

Maybe avoiding the "2/3 down, 1/3 up convex" is a thing of the past. I'm a gonna have to try it out and see how I like the chopping and what the weight differences are.
 
Rick,

Thas a really sweet blade. I can definately see the advantages you're talking about in the back bevel letting the knife come out of a cut easier than a standard sabre ground convex. I've noticed the same thing when using a knife with a swedge for detail work.

More than anything though it just looks kick ass and completely different from anything else!

Brandon
 
Broski, have you thought about making the upper bevels concave instead of flat? I might be crazy, but it might be something to try and just see what you think. You could do the top bevels hollow ground, which would reduce weight and friction and also leave a sharper edge to scrape with. Plus, it's something I've never heard of, so you'd be the only person doing it. Might look pretty sweet. Whatya think?
 
I think someone made mention to a hollow ground relief bevel. That would definately cut weight while retaining rigidity. It would also kick out some major ferro sparks, as you pointed out.

My main reason for not doing that is..... well, I just didn't do it, okay?

lol:p

I suppose I could fuller it to the edge of the spine and keep the forged look? hmmm something to think about. Incidently the spine of this knife throw sparks just as well as a dedicated scraper.

Rick
 
Asymmetrical version...

IMG_0020-4.jpg

IMG_0028-4.jpg
 
Rick, I know you're like the wilderness tactical guy but you should really make a puuko... the vikings used em in combat for 500 years and they were total badasses, besides they make awesome bushcrafting knives. You can't get more wilderness tactical than that...
 
Rick, just curious, are the tangs tapered on those too?

I would think that would really help with the flex strength.

I see you've tapered it to the spine but I meant front to back as well.
 
Yes the tang and blade is tapered from the ricasso. There is a whole lot goin on, bro.


Rick
 
You definitely have what I call a understanding of geometry, anyone can make a knife but it takes a whole lot more to make one perform above the rest. I like your design from your first post best, the only thing I would change is the edge bevel, IMO skip the micro and go with a secondary convex bevel.

My hats off to you, you have some amazing talent.
 
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