Looking for Spyderco EDC Opinions

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Acetylene

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Aug 22, 2010
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I bought a Tenacious a couple of weeks ago and like it. It is an absolute steal for the money. I like the size, weight, fit and finish, and the G10. I am particularly fond of the leaf-shaped FFG blade. What I don't like is the blade has already developed a few small chips, has already lost some of its edge, and has already stained/etched in a spot. I guess I'm just not a fan of 8CR13MOV. I am also not very fond of the lock. Its OK, but feels flimsy. I prefer to stay with Spyderco, but am open to suggestions. I need to stay under about $140 - under $100 if possible. I am leaning towards a Manix 2 XHP or a Gayle Bradley.

As for how I intend to use the knife, I own a landscape company and use the knife as a general EDC tool. I cut cardboard (yes I know its hard on blades), packaging, rope, sharpen stakes and pencils, poke holes in the bottome of oil containers, trim plactic pots, cut root balls, occassionally prune small plants, etc. I occasionally pry lightly and have even had to cut through Kevlar lawn mower belts. I need something that does not need to be sharpened every few days.

I know I am hard on my EDC and do try to match the tool to the job when practical. I have no problem sharpening a blade as it dulls through use, but this steel dulls too quickly. I thought I would carry an inexpensive blade and just use it up, but have decided I would like to carry something nicer and more capable. All positive input is very much welcomed.
 
The M4 steel used in the Gayle Bradley is absolutely amazing when it comes to edgeholding! And it's relatively easy to resharpen to boot! The lock is super strong and not flimsy feeling at all. Give the Gayle a try. I believe it will suite your needs.
 
I'm still a big fan of the Police 3. Some people don't like their size, but it's a thin knife with a long reach. Good VG10 steel as well.
 
If you're already leaning toward the manix-2, DO IT.

You won't be disappointed. It's one hell of a knife.
 
If you are rusting and or staining a stainless steel blade you might not want the bradley. M4, though very high performance is not stainless. You will have more staining and corrosion problems than you have with 8C steel.

Personally I just wipe my blades down with silicone cloths to clean them but I recognize high speed steels aren't for everybody.
 
A couple of Spydercos that you might want to consider would be a CPM-D2 Para if you can find one, or a ZDP-189 Endura. The D2 & ZDP steels will give better edge holding than the Tenacious. CPM D2 isn't stainless, but it's close, maybe closer than M4. ZDP has great edge retention, but it will stain some.

OTOH, a GB that gets a daily wipe down with a marine Tuff Cloth may be just what you want. Great edge retention, easier to resharpen than ZDP-189, and a heavy duty liner lock on this folder.
 
I really like the ergos of the Manix 2. And, it is a stout knife.

I love my Gayle Bradley. It's the smoothest opening knife in my 30-spydie collection. But, gosh... I think it's too nice to be used as a landscaper's utility knife.

I'd go with the Manix 2 in this scenario.
 
I'm gonna throw the PPT out there. Very stout little tank of a knife that can handle everything you mention with ease.

Can't go wrong with an M2 either, though the tip might not handle the light prying you mentioned as well as the PPT.
 
I've used both the manix 2 and gayle bradley as work knives, both are excellent. I'd go for whichever looked nicer to you, you really can't go wrong here.
 
Military in S30V or a Para 2 in S30V would serve you fine in that roll. :)

It's hard to beat the Military's blade for cutting and slicing.

The GB is an excellent blade and it's thicker for harder use. The M4 Steel will hold an edge for a very long time, but it not stainless.
 
The Mastiff said:
If you are rusting and or staining a stainless steel blade you might not want the bradley. M4, though very high performance is not stainless. You will have more staining and corrosion problems than you have with 8C steel.

Personally I just wipe my blades down with silicone cloths to clean them but I recognize high speed steels aren't for everybody.
Click to expand...

Yes M4 will stain more easily than stainless but the trade off is woth it in my opinion. It sharpens up resonably easy and holds it edge for an extended amount of time. I tested a Bradley M4 against a VG10 Stretch in an informal cardboard cutting contest. After cutting equal amounts, the stretch had lost most of its hair poping edge but was still cutting just fine which is pretty darn good. Then when I checked the Bradley, I couldn't even tell I had cut anything! The edge was still shaving sharp with no detectable loss of edge retention! I've tested a lot blades in this manner and M4 by far has done the best in my test. But it does require a little more maintenance than stainless. I wipe it off on my pant leg or paper towel after cutting anything acidic like fruit and wipe it with an lightly oiled rag once home if I have used it that day and I have had no rust problems at all. Again, M4 probably isn't for everyone but if you are willing to do a minimal amount of maintenance to it, it will definately provide you with amazing performance! :thumbup:
 
Of your choices, the Bradley may be right. Tough and can take a sharp edge for your job.

Others worth a look:

Spyderco Military. I carried one for a few months and it handled everything just fine. Tough, sharp edge, great ergos and easy use with gloves.

Spyderco Endura 4, Delica 4, both with serrations. A coupld of people in landscaping have said that the blades stodd up to all tasks and the serrations ate through cardboard, bags and branches with no problems. If serrations aren't your thing, either can be had with pe blades.

Hope this helps.
 
Serrated Spyderhawk or Tasman. While PE H1 has only mediocre edge holding (At least at first), SE is a whole different story, and a hawkbill is a great blade shape for most of the things you listed. Toss in a PE Ladybug for the pencils and still be under budget.
 
Hateman said:
Of your choices, the Bradley may be right. Tough and can take a sharp edge for your job.

Others worth a look:

Spyderco Endura 4, Delica 4, both with serrations. A coupld of people in landscaping have said that the blades stodd up to all tasks and the serrations ate through cardboard, bags and branches with no problems. If serrations aren't your thing, either can be had with pe blades.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

The Enduras or Delicas would be good alternatives, specially with the ZDP-189.
 
I use the Military in a landscape contractor role but I'd never pry with it. You might want to consider a partially serrated one also for your job.
 
Acetylene said:
I bought a Tenacious a couple of weeks ago and like it. It is an absolute steal for the money. I like the size, weight, fit and finish, and the G10. I am particularly fond of the leaf-shaped FFG blade. What I don't like is the blade has already developed a few small chips, has already lost some of its edge, and has already stained/etched in a spot. I guess I'm just not a fan of 8CR13MOV. I am also not very fond of the lock. Its OK, but feels flimsy. I prefer to stay with Spyderco, but am open to suggestions. I need to stay under about $140 - under $100 if possible. I am leaning towards a Manix 2 XHP or a Gayle Bradley.

As for how I intend to use the knife, I own a landscape company and use the knife as a general EDC tool. I cut cardboard (yes I know its hard on blades), packaging, rope, sharpen stakes and pencils, poke holes in the bottome of oil containers, trim plactic pots, cut root balls, occassionally prune small plants, etc. I occasionally pry lightly and have even had to cut through Kevlar lawn mower belts. I need something that does not need to be sharpened every few days.

I know I am hard on my EDC and do try to match the tool to the job when practical. I have no problem sharpening a blade as it dulls through use, but this steel dulls too quickly. I thought I would carry an inexpensive blade and just use it up, but have decided I would like to carry something nicer and more capable. All positive input is very much welcomed.
Click to expand...

The GB is a work knife, pure and simple - best work knife I've ever had. It's a champ.
If you're going to work with your knife, carbon is the way to go, IMHO.
I was a woodworker for a long time - stainless isn't on the scene at all for edged tools.
It simply doesn't compete - too brittle in 'wham bam' work situations.
Who gives a flying fart if your work tools get a little splotchy?
Yep, my GB has some pitting and rust spots.
So do all of my chisels and most of my plane blades.
Again, stainless isn't on the scene at all for edged blades/irons in the woodworking world.
I'm quite sure there is a reason for that.
 
I'm biased.. get a Military and never look back at another knife (priced more or less).
 
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