Looking for very thin 15n20

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Jun 25, 2007
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I'm looking for 15n20 in .005" to .015". I've looked though all the sources I know and could only find .049 as the thinnest. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks
-Dan
 
Yea but nickle is wayyy expensive. :( If I can't find any in the thickness I want I might try cold rolling .064 down to .01.
 
Dan,

Have you talked to Uddehom Strip? http://www.uddeholmstrip.com/u.ssp.sg.html

It looks like the thickness you want is well within the range manufactured (click 15N20 for size chart).

I have heard that most bandsaw steel 0.035" and lower tends to not have nickel in it, though... just straight 1075-ish.

Mike
 
Yea I just got off the phone with them. I would have to order 1000lb at about $6 a pound to have them roll it to the thickness I want. $600 is ok for me but $6000 is way out of my league for now.
 
Dan,

I know some folks who went 3-ways on a roll of 15N20 and a roll of 1095 at 1/16" (a standard, in-stock, size for both). You suppose there are others out there with a similar interest?

Mike

PS ~ Sailed you an e-mail on a Fairbanks topic a little bit ago...
 
I would imagine there are others who would be interested. Its only about double the cost of 1/16 and allows you to go from 10 layers per inch to 100 layers per inch on your first weld. Thus reducing propane cost, time, waste, and increasing the final amount of product.

I got your email, I'll send one back a little later today.
 
Dan,

The folks I know who bought the 1/16" (48 to 64 layers, first weld) had to work harder, longer, to avoid weld flaws from so many surfaces needing to be right... it's worth it for them.

Kevin Cashen, for one, subscribes to the "fewer surfaces/less likelihood of weld flaws approach"... like 3 - O1 and 2 - L6 with hinge welds to layer #. Joel Davis hinge welds a lot. They both are very specific about the single weld surface cleanliness.

Mike
 
I would much rather work harder at a high number of starting layers. Based on my math I would end up with 400% final product by starting with 100 layers rather than my normal 9 to 13. That in my opinion greatly outweighs the extra work.

I find hinge welding to only be good for screwing up billets and getting sprayed in the face with flux, I always cut and tack weld. Plus when you hinge weld you normally grind the surfaces when they're still hot, even at 400F its difficult to see the tiny forging pits that could trap flux.
 
Joel Davis grinds hot with a 3" or 3.5" cup and he only puts flux on one side... the up side, and lets it ooze down and out as the billet reheats. He doesn't have flaws much... and neither does Kevin... so there are ways.

Mike
 
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