Looking forward...

Steve, there are cheaper ways to get into wet shaving especially when just starting out. Check out the classifieds in badgerandblade.com . Typically the blades you find there will be shave ready and done well by someone with experience.

To start off, you will need a strop (this is a must), shaving brush( if you plan on making your own lather), shaving mug, and soap puck. Watch some videos in the B&B shaving wiki and practice your stropping. Most folks kill their first strop and blade so dong be afraid to go "bargain shopping." Classicshaving.com has great deals on strops and some razors (always make sure to ask if they are shave ready.) Learning to strop is necessary as you will need to stop before shaving each time to get the best shave possible. Shoot me a PM or email if I didn't cover something you'd like to know more about.
 
My suspicion is that there are a lot of dollars tied up in the titanium of that timor, compared to say a Dovo at a similar price with plastic handles. They are not rated all that highly whenever I've seen them mentioned but I have no personal experience with them. I would say that for that price, you can get a well proven razor, and not risk having a dud.

I would recommend picking up a brush, badger if you can afford it, there are lots of good names there, or an Omega synthetic if you want to go that route (I have one and it compares well to my high end badger, especially considering the cost difference.) Then get some soap, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Mitchels wool fat, or proraso are three that I would recommend as being pretty consistent (although mitchels tends to have trouble with really hard water) You can use these with your normal shave method until you get into the straight, and are much better than canned goop. Anything you spend here will be spread out over the long term, Brushes last for years, and a single puck of soap will easily last months.

Badger and blade, as well as straight razor place have good info, and exchanges to get either a good used, or pro-honed razor. Most razors are not shipped suitable for shaving and must be honed. Its not recommended to learn both shaving and honing at the same time, as you end up with too many variables going on. A cheap way to get into straights to start is whippeddog.com he does cheap razors ready to go.

A couple other straight razor essentials that you can use any time, an alum block: helps your fingers stick to your skin for stretching, as well as a light styptic, and a good aftershave. I use Thayers superhazel, and nothing else generally, but I have a moisturizing cream for wind/sun burn days. There are a lot of different types of aftershaves, but whatever you use, it will have to do more than what your aftershave does when using a cartridge.

ask lots of questions man, we are here to help.
 
the Dovo 5/8 is a great starter. Right in the middle for size, so as you go you can decide if you like lighter or heavier. But that is a very good size, and many guys like it. Lynn is a legend for honing, and the second free honing is a great deal.

I would say you can't go wrong there. Lynn is a great guy, and he is very active on SRP.
 
Thanks, package ordered...looking forward to this. I have a full beard that my wife will NOT let me shave, so this will be for a portion of my cheeks, and my neck below my beard line. Thanks for all the help.
 
Now for the next question...any thoughts regarding a stainless vs. carbon steel blade for this application?
 
Steve, I make and use both but do prefer CS over Stainless. Sure stainless means less upkeep but few stainless will take an edge like a carbon blade. Just my .02 .
 
Thanks, checked out your sight. Are your razors "shaving ready"? How can I order one with a nice wood handle? Thanks!
 
All my blades are carbon, as far as I know, two might be stainless-ish (all antiques) a couple are shiny, the rest have a little patina, but they are all great. I've not really had any rust problems with my blades that was related to the steel.
 
Steve, after shaving I always rinse the blade with steaming hot water and dry it off and have had no issues. If you do get a little rust on it, hit with some Bar Keepers Friend and you'll be good as new.
 
Same here, I also give the blade a few laps on the leather to finish, I feel like the oil it leaves behind might help protect the very edge. no need to oil all the time, unless your storage spot is unusually high humidity. One thing I would say is be aware of what else is around where you store it, cleaning chemicals can create a corrosive environment. I keep my razors out of the bathroom, but where it live, mould grows on everything if you are not careful. Just a wipe down is usually enough.
 
Got my package today. Planning to try this for the first time tomorrow...we will have to see how this shakes out.
 
Success! First shave with a straight razor, and no stitches or ER visit necessary!
 
OK, getting ready for my second shave. Three questions...do I strop, just the leather side(without compound) and when do I need to send it to be honed? Sorry again for the newbie questions...
 
Strop before each use. Send it in when it starts to pull even after you strop. Honing will depend on your stropping technique, hair type, shaving style, and pre-shave prep.
 
yep. you want to strop 50-100 laps or so, each strop is different. start with more. if it starts to pull a bit, or the shaves are not quite there, and you have a pasted strop, then do a few laps on the paste, clean the blade, strop on the clean leather, and see where you are at. If it gets to where nothing is helping, send it in.
 
So I should first try the leather strop without compound? What is the rough fabric strop for? If I need to add compound, what should I buy? Sorry for all the newbie questions...:o
 
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