Looking to get a traditional scout hatchet. Suggestions?

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Aug 17, 2013
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Hi -

I've been looking to get a traditional scout hatchet for camping. I would even consider getting a used head and fitting my own handle as a project. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks a lot.
 
I suspect you'll get more traction with the question over in the Outdoor Gear (or Wilderness Skills) sub forum(s).
 
I suspect you'll get more traction with the question over in the Outdoor Gear (or Wilderness Skills) sub forum(s).

This is a much better place to ask the question.

However, I suggest Gransfors bruks small Forrest axe. Can't beat it.
 
I would definitely recommend the Estwing Sportsman axe, one solid piece of forged steel, it will last many lifetimes, I love mine





Pete
 
My grandkids (not yet born) will use my Estwing. I don't know how it could be busted.

One of the questions to consider, splitting or cutting? IME, the Estwing is the latter, not the former. Mine stays in the barn for trimming branches and (don't tell anyone) grubbing out roots. The thin tapered blade is a decent cutter.

It no longer goes car camping though, as it tends to bind worse than more traditionally shaped hatchets when splitting firewood into kindling. At least for me. I'm not the best with a hatchet.
 
I suspect you'll get more traction with the question over in the Outdoor Gear (or Wilderness Skills) sub forum(s).

I understand. Though I wanted to get impressions from this crowd as our tastes generally line up well. And I just need a simple well put together (not too expensive) tool. I am liking that Estwing.
 
Thank Pete -

Do you know what the steel is? Is it 1095?

I believe it is 1055 carbon steel, I convex mine not sure if that helps with the splitting, can grip the head in palm of hand and do more detail cuts.


*Pinnah put some backbone into it :D just kidding I couldn't resist hope you and your family are doing well.

Pete
 
This is a much better place to ask the question.

However, I suggest Gransfors bruks small Forrest axe. Can't beat it.
I agree, this is what I keep in my Gear box, it just feels right and works right. Steven
 
I would definitely recommend the Estwing Sportsman axe, one solid piece of forged steel, it will last many lifetimes, I love mine





Pete

+1 on the Estwing style axes!

Here's my old Douglas Carpenter's Ax. A constant companion on camping trips and hunts for nearly 35 years. It helped build my house and it's still, as my Dad says, "tying every bundle". Pictured with my Victorinox Trail Guide.

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Check out the "Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet" sub forum. Lots of info on rehandling old hatchets and good brands to look out for
 
Estwing makes tuff stuff, no question. My hatchet is an old Tru-Temper like the one I had in Scouts (yard sale, $5) — but I have two 35-year-old geologist's rock hammers by Estwing, one with the leather-washer handle. They're both superb.

By the way, the leather handle is lovely to look at. But if you're going to whang away on a very hard surface such as basalt — do not do this with your hatchet... — the blue handle version is the one to get. Absorbs the shock much, much better. Same advice might also hold if you're planning extended periods of hatcheting into tough wood.
 
I suspect you'll get more traction with the question over in the Outdoor Gear (or Wilderness Skills) sub forum(s).

Check out the "Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet" sub forum. Lots of info on rehandling old hatchets and good brands to look out for

This thread about choosing a hatchet does not belong in a forum which is supposed to be about knives.

I looked at both suggested forums and think that the "Outdoor Gear Forum" is the best fit.

So, off we go...
 
Check out the "Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet" sub forum. Lots of info on rehandling old hatchets and good brands to look out for

Axes made by giants of American axe-making show up on ePrey for relatively cheap, with handles still intact. Collins, Plumb, Vaughn, Keen KUTTER. As always, have care whom you deal with.

Today's B.S.A. axes are expensive and inferior to vintage examples. For a time, they even sold axes with cast heads and ??? handles made by CHINA.

I have heard that a proper all-around axe is convex, not flat or concave.

Two Estwings with badly bent blades were brought to me for suggestions about how they might be fixed. The user had tried opening a split by twisting the tool, and they were not up to that with the thin, concave blade. I knew a guy who could anneal, reshape, and heat treat, so that is how they were fixed.
 
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Look at "evil bay" or google plumb scout axe. Boy scouts still sell them new too I believe.

I agree...I found a good, solid BSA hatchet, circa early '40s, for about 30 bucks on the big auction site. Used but solid, sharpens up nicely and still has many years of life left.
 
Look at "evil bay" or google plumb scout axe. Boy scouts still sell them new too I believe.

I agree...I found a good, solid BSA hatchet, circa early '40s, for about 30 bucks on the big auction site. Used but solid, sharpens up nicely and still has many years of life left.
 
Axes made by giants of American axe-making show up on ePrey for relatively cheap, with handles still intact. Collins, Plumb, Vaughn, Keen KUTTER. As always, have care whom you deal with.

Today's B.S.A. axes are expensive and inferior to vintage examples. For a time, they even sold axes with cast heads and ??? handles made by CHINA.

I have heard that a proper all-around axe is convex, not flat or concave.

Two Estwings with badly bent blades were brought to me for suggestions about how they might be fixed. The user had tried opening a split by twisting the tool, and they were not up to that with the thin, convex blade. I knew a guy who could anneal, reshape, and heat treat, so that is how they were fixed.

I think you meant to say, "thin, concave blade", no?

Earlier this summer we spent several days camping up north and I got very frustrated with my Estwing hatchet. For me, it didn't split as well as other hatchets I've owned and used. It was pretty clear that the thin hollow grind would dive deep, but it was common for it to just get stuck. It would not be uncommon to get the head into the wood and then it would stick with the top of the blade flush with the top of the wood.

A few weeks ago I picked up a True Temper "True American" hatchet/camp axe. It's US made, less than $30 and based on what I can find on old threads on bladeforums, sand cast and hardened in the 48-52 Rc range. (I have *no* idea if that is good for a hatchet or not!!). I used it for week making camp fires in Vermont and it's a much better splitter than the Estwing.

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EDITED TO: I should reiterated that we've moved to Estwing to garden/property duty and it does fantastic for trimming branches and grubbing out roots. The thin blade there is a benefit.
 
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